33 Rear Main Leak

[FlatheadTed]

I run that set up in one of my 34s late 35/36 block with early pan ,I don't see a problem with the vent its just immobilised, maybe more sludge .I have in it a late pump maybe 60PSI cold ,I intend to remove the pump or modify it to reduce pressure ,I seem to remember a Ford bulletin (v8 times )in 32 advising dealers to modify the relief valve to reduce oil consumption ,I was losing a lot of oil so removed the pan and found no tube and two more holes drilled in the bearing cap I plugged them up and fitted a tube that stopped the leak ,As said fit the tube straight down ( larger and low ) in the oil ,cannot see you pump but check it for excessive pressure .you may have excessive pressure at the main ,there is another way of dealing with it that requires a modification .Ted

 

[c33fordor]

I was able to work on the car more today.

I removed the tube from the rear main, which was not plugged. I do have an original tube and will try to replace the tube that I removed.

I removed the oil pump and took photos. I have an original rebuilt '34 pump that I will likely use instead of this pump, but I am interested in thoughts/input.

I removed the fuel stand and have attached photos for comment/input.

Also attached is a photo of the spacing between the main bearing studs.

 

[DavidG]

If you revert to the '34 oil pump you will need to install the snap-in baffle pan missing from your oil pan (judging from your first batch of photos).

 

[David J]

This is what DavidG Is referring to .

If you revert to the '34 oil pump you will need to install the snap-in baffle pan missing from your oil pan (judging from your first batch of photos).

 

[David J]

Your intake is 34 .
Fuel pump stand is early 34 " straight back " type .
You can put that stuff back together as it is not your issue .

Oil pump is newer and could possibly cause your issue if it has too much pressure-volume .

If I am reading your tape right it looks to be 3" spacing on main studs .
If it is indeed 3" it is babbit mains .

Did your leak start suddenly ??


How far was the tube fitting screwed into the main cap ?
If it's in too far it acts as a dam = leak .

Oil pump drive gear cover-gasket can cause your issue also .

 

[c33fordor]

Thank you for the photos of the baffle pan. That is very helpful.

I dropped the rear main bearing and used plastigauge. The rear main bearing cap is wider than 3" and has an insert. The plastigauge showed that the bearing was within spec at .003.

I re-tapped the rear main bearing hole and have an original tube to reinstall (the one that was in there was 1/3 the size of the original tube and may be backing up the oil in the back of the rear main bearing cap). Can someone please post a photo of which direction the tube should be facing (I assume straight down rather than an angle down).

With regard to the oil pump, how can I tell the pressure-volume? Given that I do not have a baffle pan, I will likely reuse the pump that came out.

Thanks.

 

[FlatheadTed]

From what I have read the pump you have looks like the one that came out in about 39 ,it has enough pressure to lift the valve in the valley so you get more over the timing gear and more to the back of the distributor and down on the front seal .is it possible that its flowing back from the seal under the pan to give the allusion that the rear is leaking more ,Like mine does needs a modern seal , the

 

[c33fordor]

Hi, Is this the correct way that the tube should face? What torque to you use for the main bearing caps? Thanks!

 

[David J]

Tube is installed right .
How many turns is it in ?
I use 5 and Loctite it .
If in too far it acts as a dam .
Look inside and you will see what I am talking about .

Middle pic in post 7 shows a NOS one properly installed .

The pump you had may hit the stock tube .

I have extra baffles if you need one .

 

[bgarrett]

Post 13 says these have main bearing shims,post 20 says no shims. Which is correct?

 

[cas3]

post 13 was me, incorrect info, no shims on the early v8's

 

[bgarrett]

thank you

 

[ford33]

I had a leak out the back area that I thought was the rear main. Turned out to be a bent oil pan not seated properly on the seal.

 

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Hello. I have a 1933 Fordor that is leaking/pouring out a significant amount of oil out of the rear when running. I read a lot about the rear main leak on early motors. I first drained the oil and filled it with 4 quarts. The leak seemed to continue to be constant. I then dropped the oil pan to inspect the cork gasket, determine if there was possible sludge in the oil pan and to see whether the rear main bearing had a tube. After dropping the pan, I can see that the cork was present and there is a tube coming off the rear main. I have a few questions that I was hoping someone could help answer. First, is the tube in the attached photo correct? Second, does the block look correct for '33? I am wondering whether the hole the bottom-front-left of the block is correct? I also want to make sure I have the correct oil pan for this block (the oil pan I have is from a '33-34). Third, is there anything else I should be checking? Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated.

That tube is way to small, put it back to original size!

Also what does the end play measure, and oil clearance?

Herm.