33 ford flathead
- Thread starter ktowler
- Start date
Ol' Ron
Well-known member
If it's a matter of costs, I'd go with a late 38 thru 48 running engine. A rebuild will go into the 4 grand plus for the original engine, and I don't think there are many people around that can do a quality job. The 24 stud engine is a much better design for rebuilt. If you can come up with an engine for under 2K that has some form of garentee,you'll be ahead of the game in the long run.
deuce_roadster
Well-known member
Poured babbit is on the mains only on the early 21 stud engines.
JSeery
Member Emeritus
To add a little more on this, I would also not want to use floating rod bearings just because of the difficulty locating them in the sizes that might be required and fitting them (very good bearing setup, but just difficult to work with). So, I would look for a later block and a crank that would except insert bearings. I would also want to use the crab distributor or a Chevy conversion distributor if using an 8ba front cover.
Might want to study up on some of the details of different years, here is some interesting reading:
Might want to study up on some of the details of different years, here is some interesting reading:
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JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
True, plus I would not discount a 21 stud poured babbitt or inserted mains engine up to 37. Many have been discounted/discarded in favor of using a later 24 stud engine, but in reality they can be built to be strong little runners that will reliably take you anywhere you want to go as quickly as you need to get there.
I've driven my avatar 35 fordor sedan all over the USA to the tune of 30k + miles, and anyone who has ridden with me can tell you how well it gets along.
The 35 engine in this car was rebuilt in 2001. Schwalms in Strasburg, Pa did the poured babbitt mains and all the machine work. Then I did all the assembly. Not trying to brag here, just sayin'....don't discount these early 21 stud Flathead engines.
keith oh
Well-known member
Babbit bearings were used for MAIN bearings ONLY in 35 and some 36 engines. Earlier engines had babbit rod and cam bearings also.I had mine poured buy a shop up near Lake Erie where there are many old fishing boats still running the older flatheads, hence babbit wise shops. This was in the late 70s and it still runs great and has very good oil pressure. There are still many race engines running with babbit bearing engines.
Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
In your first sentence you mentioned 'street rod' . . . if that is the case, then you're probably not concerned about originality (like a lot of us would be). The next question is do you really want to run a flathead? Most of us on this site would encourage you too - some on the HAMB would not. It comes down to what are your goals, what skills do you have, what $$$ do you have to spend and are you into it to learn a lot along the way? Flatheads are really neat engines - NO, they're not like a crate motor SBC that you can pickup for $2000 and have an instant 350 HP and parts at every local store.
On this site, most all of us here would encourage you to run a flathead -- if this is your goal, then there are a LOT of ways to skin the cat. If it was me, my first work would be to pull the original engine, take it apart and see what you have. Until you know this, it is hard to recommend whether or not to rebuilt it (maybe with a few minor performance upgrades), or push you toward the last generation 49 - 53' engine with the more modern advancements that come along with it.
Take your time, get into what you already have, buy some books to learn, ask a lot of questions (we have some real experts here) - then we can all help you understand costs, performance options, work, part vendors, etc.. Good luck.
On this site, most all of us here would encourage you to run a flathead -- if this is your goal, then there are a LOT of ways to skin the cat. If it was me, my first work would be to pull the original engine, take it apart and see what you have. Until you know this, it is hard to recommend whether or not to rebuilt it (maybe with a few minor performance upgrades), or push you toward the last generation 49 - 53' engine with the more modern advancements that come along with it.
Take your time, get into what you already have, buy some books to learn, ask a lot of questions (we have some real experts here) - then we can all help you understand costs, performance options, work, part vendors, etc.. Good luck.
i am wanting to do the truck in a 50s to 60s period rod or old school as some would say, ive picked up a 57 ford 9in, late 40s front axle, finned drums and a few more era parts so to speak, i will be going with a flat head but even looking at the late 50s v8s as maybe a 312 merc engine ? either way it will be different
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
Hang that late '40s front axle on the wall and stay with the '33 front axle. It's well up to the task, already FITS like a glove, and looks way mo-better too! If anything, upgrade to the newer MTCar Products Lincoln-style self-energizing brakes which will bolt right on, and they'll stop ya on a dime. And do yourself a favor and forget about that 312. As cool and nostalgic as they are, that is a gi-hugic (and expensive) boat anchor to try to wedge between all of the sheet metal in that little truck. You just can't go wrong with a later model flathead, and if you're absolutely determined to really update anything, consider maybe adapting a T5 O/D trans to the back of your flathead. You can even keep the torque tube and rear end. Click on the "T5 W/TORQUE TUBE" at the lower left of this post for the full story of how we adapted one to a flathead engine while retaining the torque tube and banjo rear end. DD
Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
I'm with V8Coopman . . . stick with the 33 axle . . . you can always have it dropped by 'Okie Joe' or somebody like that. You're already going Ford 9" rear (which isn't necessary with a flathead), so it kind of seems you're headed to the higher power OHV engine route? Make the decision early on ---> traditional flathead powered . . . or not. If you're headed to an OHV engine, then the HAMB would be the place for you to participate in (great vintage HotRod site).
By really honing in on the build style and era, you'll have a compass to determine which parts "fit" the era and which ones don't. Personally, I hate it when a streetrod/hotrod is a Frankenstein of too many different build periods . . . making it look like there was no real direction in the build. Take your time, take it all apart and see what you have, etc. Put a realistic BUDGET together (over what time period) and do some prototype plans with costs involved -- to see what you can afford. Many of us tend to find that we're way optimistic in our estimates . . . and our projects take 3 times the money and 3 times the time! LOL Buy hey, this is a hobby for most -- so we do it for many more reasons than 'sound economic' ones. Good luck!
By really honing in on the build style and era, you'll have a compass to determine which parts "fit" the era and which ones don't. Personally, I hate it when a streetrod/hotrod is a Frankenstein of too many different build periods . . . making it look like there was no real direction in the build. Take your time, take it all apart and see what you have, etc. Put a realistic BUDGET together (over what time period) and do some prototype plans with costs involved -- to see what you can afford. Many of us tend to find that we're way optimistic in our estimates . . . and our projects take 3 times the money and 3 times the time! LOL Buy hey, this is a hobby for most -- so we do it for many more reasons than 'sound economic' ones. Good luck!
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JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
Yes, and each year/series flathead engine has value to those restoring that particular year car. I don't believe the op had/has a clear direction of which way he really wants to go with his project when he starts talking street rod, then hot rod, and then old school 50's - 60's. 9" rear, 312 merc engine, etc.
I think Coopman and Bored&Btroked offered the best advice here.