33/34 roadster door profile

E

Ed Solari

Senior Member
The bottom front edge of the door appears not to be flush with the rocker panel. That is at the hinge edge the rocker is mainly "flush" with door but as it moves forward it ends protruding outward from the front door bottom???? (see red arrow in pix) Is this correct ..if so how much??? Can someone post a pix of view of closed door looking down from the door handle???


Thank you very much
 

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The door outer panel should be flush with the quarter panel at the hinges and with the cowl side at the front, but not flush with the rocker panel, which is a continuation of the lower body molding of the cowl and quarter panel. The "how much" is determined by the thickness of the lower body molding compared to the body sheet metal directly above the molding on the cowl side and quarter panel side. No photo will accurately convey that, but the use of a depth micrometer or even a good ruler will.



It sounds like your rocker panel at the B or hinge pillar is inward from where it should be.
 
David


Do the USA open cars "not" have an adjustment truss rod with a turnbuckle in the middle to help "align"/"Shape" the door like pictured below???
 

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Robert,


Originally there was a steel strap running from corner to corner to help maintain the door's profile as shown in the photo below, but no turnbuckle. In restorations, some add turnbuckles.



In this situation it seemingly would not help as the problem is not at the front of the door but rather at the back of the door where there is very little 'give' below the hinge.
 

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Two footnotes here.


First, the Australian doors are shorter than the US doors and do not hang below the floor level, there is a splash apron used on the Oz cars between the running board and the body, not on North American cars where the doors hang below the frame level and the bottom of the rocker aligns with the running boards.


Second, my understanding is the Steve's Auto Restoration steel bodies differ a little from original in the door area, enough to cause interchange challenges but not easy for most people to visualize on a finished car.
 
DavidG said:
Robert,


Originally there was a steel strap running from corner to corner to help maintain the door's profile as shown in the photo below, but no turnbuckle. In restorations, some add turnbuckles.



In this situation it seemingly would not help as the problem is not at the front of the door but rather at the back of the door where there is very little 'give' below the hinge.
Click to expand...
David
As I went back and looked our Aussie Ute has the"strap" you speak of!!!!
 

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Karl,


But the body and door in question were North American in origin, both from the photo and from what I recall of Ed Solari's previous postings on his project.
 
DavidG said:
Karl,


But the body and door in question were North American in origin, both from the photo and from what I recall of Ed Solari's previous postings on his project.
Click to expand...


Quite true, my answer was to be pertinent to someone down the road who might review this thread, especially if we were not to be around to answer!
 
Good point! As the new Club '33-'34 book will be international in scope, like the Club, there will be extensive coverage devoted to the Australian versions as well as those that were produced in Europe thanks to local major contributors. Not to be left out, the unique factory paint options in Canada for '33s will also be included. This assumes the lead author will live long enough to complete it.
 
My observations of door alignment on a roadster is that the door sits out from the sill about 1/8 starting just before your arrow and ends up flush with the B pillar at the hinge.more or less what David saying Ted
 

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DavidG said:
Karl,


But the body and door in question were North American in origin, both from the photo and from what I recall of Ed Solari's previous postings on his project.
Click to expand...


Quite true, my answer was to be pertinent to someone down the road who might review this thread, especially if we were not to be around to answer!
 
Don't make the mistake like I did , I think final screwing of the door wood should take place with the door mounted on the car with a gap at the top front of approximately 1/4. As has been said the strap pulls the door front in but is often assisted by a turn buckle .Ted
 
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The above photos are of a well used 1933-1934 Australian Ford Open Car Door.
Notice the diagonal brace is straight with no pressings for strength stamped into it, very agricultural on the part of Ford Australia. The USA Braces have a crease stamped into it for added strength. The last photo shows the bottom side of this door, which is different from the USA equivalent. I hope that these photos are educational.
 
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For comparison, here is a picture of an American 1933 Ford Roadster open car door with the lining removed. As you can see, that Diagonal Brace has a crease stamped into it, much more professional than the brace supplied by Ford Australia. Seems the owner of this Roadster has added a safety catch to stop the door from flying open.
 
Trevor,


I think that the photo that I posted above is a better example of the North American (both Canada and the U.S., not just the latter) inner door construction. Why not enlarge it?
 
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