'32 Zenith choke rod?

LizardsA

Senior Member
I have been asked by a friend to assist with rebuilding their '32 Zenith carb, but the thing that puzzles me is - does the '32 ("Model 'B'") have a metal choke rod similar to a Model 'A'? This car is fitted with a cable, which does not seem right. I am a Model 'A' person, so I don't really know. Any help will be appreciated
 
Do these pictures help?
Model-B-Carb-Rebuild-01-1-1024x683.jpg


Model-B-Carb-Rebuild-23-1024x683.jpg


closeup-of-the-engine-bay-in-a-1932-ford-model-b-2.jpg
 
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Do these pictures help?
Model-B-Carb-Rebuild-01-1-1024x683.jpg


Model-B-Carb-Rebuild-23-1024x683.jpg


closeup-of-the-engine-bay-in-a-1932-ford-model-b-2.jpg
The pictures may be confusing as the two top ones are a Model A engine with a Model B Zenith carb. The picture below is a 1932 Model B engine noting angled exhaust manifold and fuel pump but does show the proper choke cable not solid rod like Model A. The cables are very hard to find so hopefully you have a good one. Dave Renner has some of the small parts if cable needs repair,I think Dave gave a heads up on a used cable on Ebay a week or so ago and it went quickly for a couple hundred or more. Only thing I have found on cable versus Model A rod is be careful how much you open the fuel,not pulling out the choke but opening the fuel on Model B. If even needed at times with fuel pump you can quickly have fuel dripping out of carb.You have to remember to close it when running not as critical with Model A gravity.I think owners manual on Model B addresses this. I am still getting use to operating my first Model B and have been tripped up a couple times due to former Model A expierience.
 
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As best I can tell the choke cable set up looks correct.
On my B I just pull the choke knob out and hold it till the engine starts. Once it's running, I continue to hold the choke closed until the engine warms up enough to run without the choke. I never change the fuel mixture to keep it running when cold because it stresses the cable by turning the cable back and forth. That's why many are broken/repaired at the base.
The air silencer is incorrect. It appears to have the correct Aluminum elbow but the sheet metal part is not original. There's several pictures in Dave's book.
 
Thanks folks. It seems as though the problem on this car is that once you set the GAV via the cable, the cable seems to work its way back to a position that interferes with the proper running of the car, like it has some kind of "memory" - what could be going wrong here?
 
Thanks folks. It seems as though the problem on this car is that once you set the GAV via the cable, the cable seems to work its way back to a position that interferes with the proper running of the car, like it has some kind of "memory" - what could be going wrong here?

Pictures of your setup would help you.
 
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