'32 toeboard ?

Lazy Jake

Lazy Jake

Member
What did Henry do to plug/cover the two large gaps that are on the left and right side of the stock toeboard? I can come up with something but, curious as to what was there.
 
Lazy Jake
I have wondered the same.
At one time, I believe that Bruce Lancaster posted what was originally put there, but I can't remember what it was?
Maybe he will see this and comment, or, Davig G may respond, as he is one of the 32 experts.
Jim
 
Thanks, David. I have a metal (United Pacific) toeboard and the gap there is big enough to let water off the front wheels through. A lot of water. I'm thinking a piece of sheet metal screwed to the toeboard will do the trick.
 
Thanks David and jerseyboy!

Great info. Wonderful that we have such an informed and helpful group.
 
jerseyboy said:
Here is a PDF of an old article, regarding floor boards, from the V-8 Times by Mr Cole.

Keep V-8ing and 4 banging!
Click to expand...

Thanks, jerseyboy! I haven't seen this article before. Wish I'd had it for reference when I made a new #1 board, and especially when I tried to fit those metal plates without a good floorboard as a template. Man, that took me hours! I used a metal nibbler to expand the pedal slots as needed--and they needed quite a bit. Also, one of the metal plate holes didn't line up with the firewall floor screw holes, so I had to move it over about 1/2". Of course, my pickup is different from a passenger car, so maybe that was part of the problem.

Regardless, it's super interesting to read this now that I've gone through the experience. I know exactly what he's talking about! And...I have gaps on each side of my footboard, too. Hoping the mat or carpet used will seal these somewhat.
 
Thanks for all the replys. I down loaded the PDF, jerseyboy. And, even though I am running a steel #1 and #2 floorboard, I can use the plans as a guide for filling the gaps.
 
Some of the reproduction floor boards have the reliefs in the back put in by use of a router. The original boards that were in my brother's '32 appear to have been cut by a very large "dado" blade. I was able to approximate that look by using a common hand held circular saw. I set the saw to the depth of the recess and measure the distance from the blade to the four edges of the saw's shoe. Next, I drew an outline of the recess and then built a small fence on the four sides, each side away from the outline by the various blade to shoe dimensions. Next, I positioned the saw at each of the sides of the fence and made a full depth cut from the rear fence to the front fence. Next, I set the blade about 1/16" deep and was able to move the saw back and forth and side to side until I had made a cut that covered the entire outline. I then set the cut deeper, made another cut and repeated until the I had the entire recess cut out. This is a not quite the use for which the saw was intended, so I'd recommend that the utmost in eye, face and other body part protection be employed.
 
That PDF article was a good read! I have original floor boards in my 32 Cabriolet - the #1 board has the larger round hole, with a cover plate, and the steel support brackets for the #2 board underneath . . . guess that was early 32. Kind of fun to have original stuff - gives me something to look at and ponder. (And they're in the car.).
 
PeteVS said:
Some of the reproduction floor boards have the reliefs in the back put in by use of a router. The original boards that were in my brother's '32 appear to have been cut by a very large "dado" blade. I was able to approximate that look by using a common hand held circular saw. I set the saw to the depth of the recess and measure the distance from the blade to the four edges of the saw's shoe. Next, I drew an outline of the recess and then built a small fence on the four sides, each side away from the outline by the various blade to shoe dimensions. Next, I positioned the saw at each of the sides of the fence and made a full depth cut from the rear fence to the front fence. Next, I set the blade about 1/16" deep and was able to move the saw back and forth and side to side until I had made a cut that covered the entire outline. I then set the cut deeper, made another cut and repeated until the I had the entire recess cut out. This is a not quite the use for which the saw was intended, so I'd recommend that the utmost in eye, face and other body part protection be employed.
Click to expand...

Pete,

I had thought about doing it this way, but a friend had a dado setup and It went pretty quick. I recall the radius of the cut being 8".

Keep V8ing and 4 banging!
 
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