32 Steering Box Seal

B_man_Al

B_man_Al

Senior Member
Does anyone know the proper location of the metal convex/concave washer in the steering box around the horn/light switch rod? Does it go behind the cork gasket against the bearing or between the end plate and the gasket? Also looking from the light switch end, is the washer higher or lower at the center than at the outside diameter?

Thanks Al
 
Do away with the original seal & use the lower plate that has a thin tube about 6" or so long on it.The tube extends above the oil level in the box & no oil will leak into the light switch. The model A parts vendors have the part & I believe it will work on Fords up to 1936. I don't get what you mean by washer on bottom of LS rod.
 
This is what he's talking about . My experience with repops of these is poor so I just buy NOS ones . These are around and barnfind08 here probably has some . AKA Fred at southside obsolete in Fairbault MN . These are much better than the 32 setup and I do not want to part with any .
columbiA said:
Do away with the original seal & use the lower plate that has a thin tube about 6" or so long on it.The tube extends above the oil level in the box & no oil will leak into the light switch. The model A parts vendors have the part & I believe it will work on Fords up to 1936. I don't get what you mean by washer on bottom of LS rod.
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Columbia ...

I tried the suggested part for a model A but the OS dia of the sleeve is too large to fit inside the 32 bearing. It could be turned down I guess, but the wall of the sleeve would be pretty thin afterwards. I'm not sure why they work OK on a model A. I was thinking of drilling out inner bearing race, but decided against it.

As far as the washer is concerned, there is a "cupped" washer at the bottom of my steering box, which has an inner dia (ID) just larger than the horn/light switch rod dia, and an OD about an inch or so, and just fits in the steering box casting.

It is accompanied with a similar cork gasket to act as the seal for the bottom. I think the cup is to compress the cork gasket and seal around the horn rod.
 
I realize your response was directed elsewhere but the pic of the 1933-1934 tubes is there for a reason . The repop ones have a much thicker tube and WILL NOT FIT . Notice how thin the NOS tubes are and this subject has been run through the mill numerous times here . Drilling the shaft to accept the junk repop tube has some known bad side effects . Namely the steering shaft snapping off . Dunno bout you but I'll pass on thattun .
 
B Man Al
You can use the lower part with the 2 holes as shown by David J. You can buy the correct brass mtube from OSH. I don't remember the size. You then drill the bottom plate to the correct tube size and silver solder it together.
You may want to contact Richard Lacy @ Early v8 garage. I'm sure he knows the correct size.
This fix really works well. And if you have the sector housing machined for a seal you will have no leaks whatsoever.
 
If all of the parts in your '32 steering gear are genuine Ford, I guarantee that the NOS tube shown in David J's photos will work as advertised; at least it has on the eight or so '32s where I've used one.

You're right about the function of the original concave spring washer sealing the cork gasket around the light switch/horn wire tube, but it is not durable and you'll soon have oil entering the light switch eventually compromising the electical contacts (in addition to a mess).
 
David J- Could you measure the ID, OD and wall thickness of the tubes you showed in the pictures above? A lot of hobby shops carry brass tubing in fractional sizes in this range. Wall thickness is nominally 1/64" and each size will telescope over the next smaller size. I just bought a length of 9/32" OD x 1/4" ID for another project.

Here's a link to K&S Metal who provides the tubing to hobby shops. I took a quick look thru it and didn't see the range of sizes offered, but one of the displays available to hobby shops has up to 5/8" diameter. According to David J's measurements below, 13/32" OD by 3/8" ID should work out well.
http://www.ksmetals.com/
 
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Good idea to use new tubing. Any problems getting it perpedicular to ensure it doesn't bind? The part I have looks like it needs about 1mm (.04) taken off the dia to just fit inside the bearing.
 
I'm having a hard time visualizing an interference condition with the lower bearing rather than with the inside diameter of the steering shaft. The inside diameter of a B-3571 lower bearing is 31/32" and the outside diameter of the tube in David J's ph3to is 7/16". That results in 17/64" clearance around the circumference of the tube. Your starting point must be a very large tube or perhaps it's the choice of nomenclature. What am I missing?
 
Checked the five in the pic and got .423" to .421" on the OD and 3.73" to 3.80" on the ID . Looks like a fat.020" on the wall thickness .
 
DAvidG ..

Yes your right, the interference is with the steering shaft, not the bearing. I thought I was looking at the bearing while laying on my back with oil dripping in my face :-). As DavidJ said .... not a good thing to drill out!

Back to the original question ... what is the order of reassembly of the original stuff? I am assuming the following..... plate, paper gasket, cork gasket, concave washer with the center raised towards the cork gasket (largest space behind the washer to the bearing).

Got a tour this weekend, no time to convert to a new shaft.
Al
 
An update on the steering box seal dimensions. A friend of mine with several model A's tells me that the larger OD diameter rod on the seal is OK for the model A. The OD dia of the rod measures .505 and the ID of the model A steering rod is .565, so there is enough clearance for it to fit inside the steering rod. The steering rod ID looks like it changed in 32 ( got smaller). I don't know about the OD. This compares to the .423 OD dimension for the originals provided by DavidJ.

MACS also shows the steering rods be different between 28-31 and 32. None available for 32, and their next one runs from 38-40 and is a different part no. than the Model A

Al
 
PeteVS said:
David J- Could you measure the ID, OD and wall thickness of the tubes you showed in the pictures above? A lot of hobby shops carry brass tubing in fractional sizes in this range. Wall thickness is nominally 1/64" and each size will telescope over the next smaller size. I just bought a length of 9/32" OD x 1/4" ID for another project.

Here's a link to K&S Metal who provides the tubing to hobby shops. I took a quick look thru it and didn't see the range of sizes offered, but one of the displays available to hobby shops has up to 5/8" diameter. According to David J's measurements below, 13/32" OD by 3/8" ID should work out well.
http://www.ksmetals.com/
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KS Precision Metals round brass tube #8137 7/16 x 0.14 works to modify your 1932 end plate. Drill plate to 7/16 and solder in. Works great for those without a 33/34 end plate
 
Have a 32 with the original type cork seal. It does leak, but the lubrication instructions tell you to check it on a regular basis. So Henry, in his infinite wisdom, knew it leaked. And it had an opening at the bottom of the electrical switch to let the oil drip out. So what is the problem? Except that you young'ns don't want to change your spark plugs and file your points every 20K. :D
 
Bubsyouruncle said:
So Henry, in his infinite wisdom, knew it leaked. And it had an opening at the bottom of the electrical switch to let the oil drip out. So what is the problem? :D
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Those annoying oil spots left on the garage floor....... I went even farther and machined the sector housing for an oil seal too.
 
Just found this thread and many thanks to Ozzyrodder for posting a p/n for the tubing to do it myself. Just ordered 2, in case I screw up 1, off ePay and seller is in Canada so major bonus on my end.
 
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