'32 rear transmission mount

Motor mounts and firewall clearance were all worked out with the trans mount flat on the K member. The rear end was not in play at that time. There's enough fore and aft adjustment to handle this. (Notice that there are no pictures of the engine on this site.)
 
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PeteVS said:
Motor mounts and firewall clearance were all worked out with the trans mount flat on the K member. The rear end was not in play at that time. There's enough fore and aft adjustment to handle this. (Notice that there are no pictures of the engine on this site.)
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Pete,

I'm having a hard time understanding the problem then. What thickness are those shims? Are you shimming it because that is where the trans mount falls when bolted to the motor and the motor mounts or are you shimming it because you need the space due to the rear being too long?

Those shims don't look too thick. Like a mentioned, there is some minor wiggle room with the rear fore and after since the spring pack can rock or shift in the crossmember a tad bit. May have to loosen the u bolts and spring clamps.
 
I've seen one thread either on here or the HAMB where a person started out with the model A rear axle set up but I always assumed that the engine and transmission location was set up to do that. A person just doesn't know without dimensions or any "eyes on" for another persons project to know what's going on. It's hard to give advice on thing like this. A person is kind of "on there own" when they deviate from a given plan. The Bishop/Tardel plan isn't a bad one but not much deviation can be done to use different parts than were specified for that plan.

My front motor mounts don't leave room for much adjustment but my stuff is based on 8CM and later Mercury parts on the motor. 8BA truck stuff would even make it different. There are a lot of ways to go but I prefer the end solution with the best stuff I can work with and stick with that.

I hope the project works out for the OP.
 
rotorwrench said:
I've seen one thread either on here or the HAMB where a person started out with the model A rear axle set up but I always assumed that the engine and transmission location was set up to do that. A person just doesn't know without dimensions or any "eyes on" for another persons project to know what's going on. It's hard to give advice on thing like this. A person is kind of "on there own" when they deviate from a given plan. The Bishop/Tardel plan isn't a bad one but not much deviation can be done to use different parts than were specified for that plan.

My front motor mounts don't leave room for much adjustment but my stuff is based on 8CM and later Mercury parts on the motor. 8BA truck stuff would even make it different. There are a lot of ways to go but I prefer the end solution with the best stuff I can work with and stick with that.

I hope the project works out for the OP.
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Pete hinted on not showing the motor, which leads me to believe it may be a SBC.
If so, you can elongate the holes in the Hurst-type cradle mount if that was what was used.

Like all have mentioned, the picts are hard to me to figure out what exactly is wrong, but it appears it only needs to come back less than 1/2" judging by those spacers.
 
Here you go. Just enough slack in the mounts for it all to work out. (I do love that '53 Ford engine paint color!)
 

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Hi Pete,


Caught with one of those naughty motors, tsk, tsk.


Is that a copper brake line that is showing in the picture?
 
glennpm said:
Hi Pete,


Caught with one of those naughty motors, tsk, tsk.


Is that a copper brake line that is showing in the picture?
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Copper nickel. I bought preflared lengths, bent, trimmed and reflared (double) the trimmed ends. It’s so much nicer to work with than steel and it doesn’t rust. (The orange engine has been part of the plans for this car for over 60 years now.)
 
Pete . . . I have no problem with you scratching that 60 Year SBC itch! Heck, I have a non-BARN compatible three window with 520 HP of 383 SBC that I built. I bought the car with a SBC, so 'NO', I didn't take a flathead out of it . . . but I put a lot more SBC HP back into it! (Had a 250 HP smog motor - real dog!).

And then there is my 34 five window coupe (my first car) . . . the motor for it has those strange non-Ardun Hemispherical chambers and 392 cubes underneath them. Whups, should not have let that cat out of the bag! LOL
 
Let us know when you push the engine back, will it hit the fire wall. If you like where the engine sits now push the trans mount up a tad. You have the cut the T/T and drive shaft any way. I have done the same setup and the last thing was to measure the length of the T/T and cut the drive shaft the same length if they are a matched pair. Remember the old saying KISS. JMHO
 
One day, I will own a '35 roadster with one of aluminum 427 small blocks and a Doug Nash 6 speed. Nuthin' wrong with a SBC in my book.
 
jimvette59 said:
Let us know when you push the engine back, will it hit the fire wall. If you like where the engine sits now push the trans mount up a tad. You have the cut the T/T and drive shaft any way. I have done the same setup and the last thing was to measure the length of the T/T and cut the drive shaft the same length if they are a matched pair. Remember the old saying KISS. JMHO
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I had picked up an A cowl and made it crappy copy of it out of plywood. With a "test fit" block and heads in the frame, I mounted my wooden cowl and cut it out where needed. I then made up some little "pans" I made from aluminum flashing to check fit and the ability to remove heads and distributor. Then, I redid it all in #16 gauge steel. I used an old dry chemical fire extinguisher bottle for the distributor nook. LOTSA WORK

PS: I realize that most of this thread belongs on the HAMB but I find this to be a friendlier audience. I hope noone's offended.
 

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