32 Rear Frame rail repair

Tinbasher

Well-known member
Hi Guys:

I'm working on an original 32 frame and the rear rail where cut off. I was able to get two rear sections but there about 8" short.

What I need is a pattern or pictures of the top and bottom surface of the rail so I can get the correct shape where the gas tank fits in.

I can find alot of frame charts but they don't have the info.

Thanks The Old Tinbasher.
 
Likely not much help, but it is all that I have in the computer where I am at presently.
 

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Someone used make and sell repair pieces to fix frames that were cut off to go under a Model A body. Granted, they were mild steel. I had to do exactly that on my avatar roadster, but it was long enough ago, I found some original pieces that were cut off another original frame. Have you contacted any of the reproduction frame rail makers? Even with my press with the thickness of the metal and taper it wouldn't be much fun making
Good luck.
 
Go to our web site, wescottsauto.com - tech - frame diagrams - 1932 (http://www.wescottsauto.com/WebCatalog/Tech/FrameDiagram1932.pdf) it may provide some help.
Provided you do not need to replace the arch for the rear axle a longer repair panel should be easy. Measure the length you need and I will check against on of my reference frames and get a width measurement for the frame channel at the front. I can refer you to the laser cutter/press brake company we use.
 
JW ROD GARAGE will sell you the pieces to repair that.

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Years ago, I replace some rear frame horns on a '32 frame that were missing. I also had a perfect late model '32 frame with the rear reinforcements. Beautiful frame that had never been touched., no extra holes no rust pits, I squared up the end cuts on the bad frame. I took some 1/8" plywood and scribed around the perfect frame from about the center of the kickup to the ends, I also scribed around the rear spreader bar holes and clamped it to the frame I used a straight edge to align it up with the top and side of the rail. I checked the end's height to the ground compared to my nice frame. I kept grinding away on the replacement frame horns until they were perfect fit against the frame and until they lined up with the scribed line on the end and the spreader bar holes. I welded up a rectangular jig out of angle iron, the same size as the gas tank and marked the bolt holes using my good frame and bolted it to the replacement frame horns that I had found at a swap meet. Mig welded them in and then made an internal reinforcement like the late model frames so it strengthened that butt weld. Then rivted the rear crossmember in They are not going anywhere.

I've had problems with the aftermarket stainless rear spreader bar hitting the gas tanks. The diameter is a little too large. There are two different length rear crossmembers. One for the early frame and a shorter one for the late model frames with the inside reinforcements so you need to be aware of that when repairing frames. There is a Ford bulletin on it. The early frame rear horns sagged down and create an outward bulge in the frame directly over the rearend. That was because of the weight of the gas tank and spare tire carrier hanging back there and then the rearend hammering away from underneath on the rubber bumper stop. I repaired a frame with that problem by putting it on the ground with a pallet of cinderblocks on top of the frame. I put a floor jack under the rear frame horn and heated the bulge while jacking up the frame horn and then gently tapping the bulge back in. That worked pretty well.

I have a late '32 frame that was perfect except for the front frame horns. One was savable and one was mangled and torn. I replaced the really bad one. Then I scribed around a good frame horn and gave the drawing to my dad that worked out at Kaiser Steel at the time, it opened it 1945, They made steel as thick as sheet metal and as thick as steel for battleships. Iron ore when in one side and steel came out a mile further away. They had a burning table that would follow the drawing and cut out metal up to something like six-inches thick. He made me a front frame horn dolly out of 1 2" thick plate so I could hammer the one horn back into shape. They both turned out really nice. I can't tell they were repaired. I think I still have that rear wooden pattern and I know I have the frame horn dollies. I'll try and get pictures of them later today.

I might have the end of a frame rail with those gas tank holes. I'll try to remember tomorrow to look for it.
 

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I PM'd him and offered to give him a pair of rear horn cut offs but the shipping to his home would be prohibitive.
 
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