32 rear fender mounting?

hotrodA

hotrodA

Well-known member
Tried several searches to no avail.

I need to mount rear Wescott glass fenders to a Brookville roadster body.
Yeah, I know, good luck and fingers crossed.:rolleyes:

Do they use the flanged through bolts welded on the inside of the fender well vertical panel?

Or bolts that go vertical up through the fender into welded on cage nuts inside on the fender well ledge? The glass fenders have dimples indicating this.

Or a combination of both?

I want as close as possible to OE locations.

Anyone have a layout diagram for the holes in the body or fender edge?

Thanks!!
 
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All of the attachments in the Brookville (and original) body itself are via 5/16-24 cage nut along with two 5/16-18 studs per side near the rear of the fender and at the back of the body itself.
 
Thanks, David.
My B’ville has nothing in the way of holes, studs or location marks, unfortunately.

Are there just three holes in the top of the fender (and body) for the cage nuts?

And JUST the two 5/16 studs at the rear?
 
Here are the only pics I’ve found of the fender mounting holes

This one of the inside flange with multiple holes to mount to the inner fender panel.

And this one of the three holes in the top, to mount with vertical bolts.
 

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hotrodA said:
Here are the only pics I’ve found of the fender mounting holes

This one of the inside flange with multiple holes to mount to the inner fender panel.

And this one of the three holes in the top, to mount with vertical bolts.
Click to expand...
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Maybe Karl should (or maybe does) make templates for their glass fenders as to where the mounting holes should be or a stencil and mark them on the underside for stock bodies for all the fenders.
 
Over the years some editions of our fenders had "dimples" to mark the hole locations, some do not. I am not sure how long it would take me to make up a sketch.


You should not have any major issues fitting the fender, my understanding is Brookvilles wheelwell is reasonably accurate to original shape, as are our fiberglass fenders.



Several suggestions. First, any holes in the fiberglass fender should be opened up to 1/2" unless it would show on the outside. This allows for "scooching" the fender slightly to optimum fit and avoid binding between the hole and the shaft of the bolt. Second, use hardened USS size washers, they will spread the compression force over a greater area than standard or fender washers which tend to bend when the fender is bolted up. Third, 32's tend to have issues with the tips of the rear fenders not staying aligned. Locate the lowest point on the fender/horn cover where you can drill a hole with a matching hole horizontal in the frame. Use a piece of "all thread" to tie the fender to the frame. As each end will be "double nutted" you will be able to adjust the tip of the fender in and out slightly, and firm up the mounting.
 
That fender in your photos has the correct hole locations with one notable exception. From the back of the inside edge of the fender there are three smaller holes where the render attaches to the frame horn cover followed by two larger holes, one above the other. Moving forward, there are two more of the larger holes in the inside edge. Only the first of those is original, the second (forward most) one has been added post production.
 
Thank you DR, David and Karl! :D
Your response and your expertise is much appreciated!

I actually found ALL the marker dimples on the fenders! Whadda ya know! :rolleyes:
Dilemma solved.

Now to drill them out and fill the extra dozen or so holes that someone drilled, trying to fit them to who knows what. Then use the correct holes to locate the ones in the body. :cool:

Thanks, FORDBARN
 
One more question.

Are the mounting fasteners that go horizontal through the inner fender panel bolts and nuts,
rather than a flanged stud brazed on the inside, like Model A?

Ordered the correct rear fender bolt kit from ThirdGen and it is all bolts, with washers and nuts.

Thanks again!
 
I must be missing something? I've mounted countless deuce coupe/roadster fenders both glass and steel over the last 50+ years and it was never this complicated!
 
Gary, it got complicated because someone drilled all the wrong holes in them, and there are no holes in the body.
Once I figured out the Wescott actually had locating dimples, it became easy.
 
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