32 Project Clutch Pedal Problems Help Needed

[TomT/Williamsburg]

The 32 project will not go into gear as stated in a previous post. I'm using 32 pedals and clutch rod setup with a 9" flywheel, p-plate and associated T-5 clutch disk to match my 1" 14 spline output.

What I think is happening is that I've not got the clutch pedal rod long enough to disengage the clutch completely. It's a tight setup and I can't seem to get enough length on it. So I thought I would make a turn-buckle setup to get the clutch arm long enough to disengagte the clutch. Seems I have about another 1/2" to go to hopefully make things work. A regular turnbuckle with enough strength is too large for what I need.

What I need is a 7/16x20 reverse threaded bolt ( I would then weld a round-hole end onto it to mate it to my pedal) to complete the turnbuckle.

I have searched the internet but to no avail - did Ford make one of these? Do any of you have a 7/16x20 reverse threaded bolt or rod? Any length will do as I'll make up the rest of what I need.

I could go with a different bolt size and coupler - I'm open for what anyone might have, ideas, etc.

This is the only thing left before a test drive (and hopefully not find any other problems), exhaust made up, and start cruising.

Thanks for any help you can give.

 

[Bruce Lancaster]

Google up MSC industrial supply...they have almost anything you can imagine with threads, and also taps and dies for odd sizes and lefty stuff.
If you like'em, get a paper catalog, as the online searching through their millions of items will drive you crazy!
"Small Parts, Inc." is a similar outfit but focused on tiny bits and widgets.
Both catalogs are chock full of stuff you never knew existed, and reading them suggests new ways to solve problems.

 

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Google up MSC industrial supply...they have almost anything you can imagine with threads, and also taps and dies for odd sizes and lefty stuff.
If you like'em, get a paper catalog, as the online searching through their millions of items will drive you crazy!
"Small Parts, Inc." is a similar outfit but focused on tiny bits and widgets.
Both catalogs are chock full of stuff you never knew existed, and reading them suggests new ways to solve problems.

Thank you, Bruce, I will do that ....

 

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Here are some new pics ... there will be 40 Std caps and rings and of course the top.

Full pics/video when I can SHIFT it and get it outside! LOL!!

 

[George/Maine]

What I think you have is what i ran into when I had a 32 case in my 39.The arm is to long and there is not enought travel.If you can shorten the lever you will get more travel.

 

[DICK SPADARO]

The question about engaging the clutch relates to the ratios of the pedal to clutch throw out arm. The first question would be, what are you using for a clutch throw arm at the bell housing side?

If you are using a stock 32 clutch pedal assembly and a throw arm on the bell housing of another year than the 32 design it probably is the source of your issues.

 

[Bruce Lancaster]

The '32 arms at both ends are indeed MUCH longer than those on other year Fords. Most (I don't have all to look at!) other year clutch levers are fairly close in length and way shorter than '32.

 

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Both arm and pedals are '39 - I will see if I can take pics over the weekend.

Thanks for your help, guys!!!

 

[Bruce Lancaster]

If there's enough room, could you disconnect pedal and have someone work the clutch lever with something like a piece of pipe dropped over it? Purpose would be to see if the mechanism at bellhousing functions in order to see if it's a travel problem or something wrong inside, like poor relationship between throwout bearing and the shaft and fork. I assume here an adapter bellhousing with Ford cross shaft and lever.
If

 

[Bruce Lancaster]

If you really need a longer rod, Lincoln V12 one is long and based on a turnbuckle...

 

[DICK SPADARO]

So you have a matched set of arms. The next step is to orient the parts. Remove the rod that connects the bellhousing throw arm to the pedal arm, pull the pedal to the most up ward position hitting the floor board, rotate the transmission arm forward so you can just feel the throw out bearing hit the fingers of the pressure plate. This will determine the free length of the throw out adjustment rod. Adjust your push rod to match this length, you may have to make a longer pushrod, and check for proper disengagement. If the clutch does not release completely with the pedal fully depressed there is something amiss with the parts. If this works, readjust the pedal rod shortening it by 1 or 2 turns in the clevis so there is about 1" pedal travel before the slack is taken up in the pushrod travel, this will give you free play to prevent wearing out the throw out bearing from constant rotation.

 

[Andy]

I would do what Dick says. I would use standard clevis's on both ends and either a custom threaded rod or a length of all thread. You can buy fine thread all thread and auto suppy houses. The clevis's too!

 

[George/Maine]

If you truly have 39 linkage with pedal up it must hit floor on the bottom side,and I think the lever needs to be guess about 3 1/2"
39 does,nt have much travel to begin with.When the lever is at 11 oclock and pedal hits clutch disk about 12 oclock to 1 oclock
should be about 1/2 travel.

 

[Charlie ny]

Tom,
If you need a special do dad made up after going thru the steps Dick
Spadaro mentioned....shot me a sketch of what you need and I'll fab it up for
you. We leave for Charlotte on the 19th.
Charlie ny

 

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Bruce/Dick/Andy/George/Charlie - yep, I'm hitting the floor boards with the clutch arm and I can't get the adjustment I need under the car to do so. I've sent Charlie what I need but ...

What I'm goping to do now is to remove the pass floor boards, giving me more arm swing and greater ability to adjust the push arm to get the full "push" on the 39 crosshaft since I'll have the necessary "play" with the clutch free. I've already cut reliefs in the floorboards so the arm is doing all it can do at the moment but perhaps I can buy a bit more.

Thanks again guys for all your advice - one way or another, I'll get it going!!!!

 

[George/Maine]

This is what I did to increase travel for testing.If you have the car all together.My poor art.I took a piece of medal and made new hole for the pin,used the old hole to hold together.You may get some idea from this .This was temp fix and used it for year.
The pedal there isn,t much you can do with that wood floor is 3/4 inch.I had a problem hitting the exhaust pipe duals when pedal down you want full travel.

 

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Well buys, it's a done deal - the motor and trans have to come out. I got the rod all set up this AM but the t-out bearing is hung up. I guess it must have fallen off the end of the sleeve on the snoot of the trans. Just as well as I would probably have had this problem sooner or later down the road.

So, all will come out and I'll use a 10" setup, something I'm familiar with and know with regard to the T5 as it's in my 40 coupe. I'm going to "chill" today and start the pull out tomorrow. I need to make room for all the parts that are coming out (and need to stay nice), check my stash for a 10" flywheel and Borg-Beck p-plate and source a clutch disk. I'm also going to check w/Speedway as I remember that sleeve being shorter than what I remember from my 40 unit. I may also see if I can "rotate" the 39 shaft arm coming out of the trans so I can have a longer throw.

That's hot rodding I guess - I'm disappointed but I'll get it all together and driving eventually.

Thanks again for all your help guys - the 9" setup was a good idea - too bad it didn't work!!

So, does anybody need a nice, slightly used lightened 9" flywheel and p-plate??!!

 

[Krylon32]

I noticed you thought your throwout brg had came off the end of the sleeve. If using the Camero trans the input retainer sleeve is about 3/4 to 1 inch shorter than the S 10 which does'nt seem to have this problem. I address this several times a year. I always recommend the S-10 trans with my kit and if installed properly there are normally no problems. Also I have had a couple of installs where the flywheel was heavily resurfaced several times in its life and it appeared that the C&PP were moved just a little bit closer to the motor and the fork/throwout brg travel would bottom out before releasing the clutch? With the large number of kits I've sold I always think that all the problems have surfaced but thers always another one lurking down the road.

 

[DICK SPADARO]

Tom you do not have to junk the parts you have. The throw out bearing cannot slide off the end of the snout as that throw out collar should extend inside the forks of the pp.

If you are going to pull every thing apart before you go purchasing a bunch of new clutch parts lay everything in sequence and take a picture for a post to help identify your issue.

I have correct spline clutch discs 9 and 10"

By reading you post it appears the the pedal position you have chosen does not allow the 39 pedals to return to their original operating position. If this assumption is correct you have to re index the throw on your pedal, all you have to do is reorient the pedal throw arm. This can be done by removing the pedal pin, turning the clutch shaft to the new orientation position about 12 0'clock position and re drilling a new pedal pin index hole. Plug the old hole to prevent a crack from developing.

To address the issue of a short input shaft collar as per Krylon's post I also have a 2 3/4" long sleeve that fits over the GM input shaft collar. If you have the short collar as mentioned this may solve that problem.

 

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Sorry boys, I didn't do too much this past weekend - too many family things to attend to.

Dick - thanks for all your offers of help - I will post pics once I get this bad-boy apart and see what gives. As for the 39 pedal position, the part where it attaches to the push rod is nearly pointing straight up. I will take a pic of my setup before I pull the combo. In the pic below you can see the position of the clutch pedal/push rod before all was together. I'll give you a present pic this evening.

Krylon32 - I am using an 89 S10 T5 trans, not a Camaro. The 9" flywheel was heavily modified with the ring cut off and I had it lightened as much as possible. Since the pedal does not seem to have any resistance on the return, I'm leaning towards the t-out bearing going too far forward and falling off or hanging up on the end - we'll see when I separate the two.