32 headlight, socket and conduit.

sonny

Senior Member
What do you think? I have a new wiring harness, conduit, sockets etc. The way that was designed is an open circuit (short) waiting to happen. where the conduit goes together with the socket at the headlight bucket, there's not a lot of room for error. I'm thinking to solder and heat shrink extensions on the end of the three wires and take them inside the headlight bucket and then make the connections. Being that nothing is fused, it makes sense to me. But fusing everything is not a bad idea either.
 
No I have the whole works. Just that there's not much space between the wire ends and the socket. Bought everything from Macs and it just seems a little loose and cheezy. Did the above on a 29 tudor street rod and never had a problem in over 20 years. Some of this stuff they sell today just doesn't get it.
 
Best way unless there are better repro parts I haven't seen is to take all the original terminal parts, unsolder/pull off/drill out if necessary the original contacts, clean up the bakelight, and build new ones from new wire (original colors are available) and original barass and plastic. I think most of the bits are the same '30-32 if you don't have your own stuff.
Also, at least some repro light switch contact plates are unreliable...you can unsolder one from a dead harness (Model A through 1936, I suspect) and solder in the leads from new harness, polish up contacts on original plate and rotary part.
 
It's a shame how much junk is out there. I purchased everything new for the headlights etc. and when I started putting it all together I couldn't believe how cheap everything was. While putting in a bulb the socket came apart. In one socket the contact was missing. I ended up building my own.
 
Using a combination of original parts and modern materials always worked for me. Being a Medical Instrument Repair Technician gave me access to the latest connectors/tools/techniques. Shrink tubing and modern electronic disconnects enabled me to hook everything and make it work, disconnect if I had to and be electrically safe at the same time.....Also keep it all hidden from view.
Sounds like you are on the right track.
 
Do any of you have some pictures of how the socket should look? On the 32 Fordor that I just bought, the headlights have all of these repro parts, and everything is falling apart. I need some ideas how to piece it back together...to where it will stay together and be safe.

Thanks,

Neal
 
I had a short on my 30 roadster, with that kind of fitting, luckily not to ground, but when I put the side lights on, the headlamps came on too.

I think I eliminated the sockets and ran the wires right into the lamp unit.

Mart.
 
Do any of you have some pictures of how the socket should look? On the 32 Fordor that I just bought, the headlights have all of these repro parts, and everything is falling apart. I need some ideas how to piece it back together...to where it will stay together and be safe.

Thanks,

Neal

Neal,

I have this diagram, hope it helps.

Keep V-8ing and 4-banging!
 

Attachments

  • Flathead_Electrical_headlmp1932.jpg
    Flathead_Electrical_headlmp1932.jpg
    46.8 KB · Views: 53
Scott,

With respect, that illustration is for the '33-'34 lamps, which are quite different in terms of how the lamp socket wires attach to the lighting/horn wiring harness. The illustration below is a copy of the original engineering drawing for a cross section of the '32 lamps which shows how each component interacts with the others, including at the junction of the two sets of wires where they meet at the end of the conduit and bottom of the lamp housing which is basically the subject of this thread.

Dave
 

Attachments

  • Book photos 361.jpg
    Book photos 361.jpg
    39.8 KB · Views: 61
David,

Thank you, that is good to know. It was listed as a 32 headlight assembly on the sight I pulled it from. You saved me some trouble when I get to rebuilding my headlights!

Keep V-8ing and 4-banging!
 
Whats the story with single bulb and two bulb headlights? My car has single bulb lights...is that correct for a Deluxe with cowl lights?

Thanks,

Neal
 
Now...what you need will come from an optimistic restorer or streetrodder who imagines he will have light if he buys a nice new repro harness. You need a dead harness for the bulb end and exit end hardware, for the original bakelite, springs, and ends. I will have to check but I believe 30-31 use same hardware with different wire lengths...
Keep the bakelite, springs and contacts, unsolder/pull/cut as needed to get contacts off, run in a drill or probe to clear hole, reassemble on good flexible wire.
Essentially same drill on headlight switch if you are using that...transplant bakelite disk and rotor to your new harness as many of the repro ones are nodamngood.
 
I ordered a new Vintique light socket. Before I installed it, I noticed one of the contacts was loose. I tried to push it back in and then the whole mess shot out. I found the contact, but the spring is gone. I will order another repro, so I can hopefully have some form of operable headlights...but I guess I will now be on the hunt for original sockets.

Neal
 
Back
Top