32 ford flathead engine value????

[john mullen]

I have a 1932 21stud engine in very good condition that I am going to take to the swap meet. I would like to know what it is worth as I do not want to over price it. it has no intake ,ignition, starter, or water pumps its very clean inside and out, it has good compression good flywheel, new pilot bearing, I'm not trying to make a killing just want to be fair. ..what should I ask for it????

 

[V8COOPMAN]

IF it's actually a REAL '32 block, you don't have to be ashamed to ask (command) what it's worth. The experts on such will chime-in here with details, but don't be eager to just sell it at a swap meet. That '32 engine needs to be advertised in the "right" circles...they're rare and desirable today. DD

 

[DavidG]

Any idea what the overbore on the cylinders is? If +.030 or less, $2,500 if the oil pan is aluminum in good condition or an authentic '32 steel version. $2,000 if the oil pan is post '32. If the overbore is +.040 or more, knock $300-400 off those prices as it likely would have to be sleeved when rebuilt.

If it is an early version with the oil dipstick hole in the back of the bank of cylinders on the right side, double the above figures. If is a super early version with bolt-on steady rod brackets (and you have the unique brackets) like a Model B engine, triple or quadruple the above figures.

 

[john mullen]

OK, I have looked at the engine for numbers and found as follows ... L.F. of the intake surface the letters LB. and about 2 inches behind that is the letter H. on the R.R. the number 32 and letter E around the 3-4 intake ports ..on the far R.R. there are the letter A and next to that is a circle with the letter R in it. the head casting numbers are ..68-6050 B and 68-6049 b
please help me ID this 21 stud engine if you can.. Thanks John

 

[TonyM]

According to the 1935-1936 Ford Book: 68-6050 and 68-6049 are 1936 heads.

 

[NealinCA]

If it says LB, then likely a "large bearing" or insert bearing 36 engine. A very desirable 21 stud. I'd like to find a good one for my 32 sedan.

Neal

 

[TonyM]

Try here: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_specs-85early.htm

 

[TonyM]

Hope this helps: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_engine-pics/Flathead_Engine_blockchart32-36.jpg

 

[john mullen]

Ill try to post photos

 

[DavidG]

The heads do not define what the engine block is as amply demonstrated by the Ford chart of remanufactured engines (Van Pelt's web site). Your photos show clearly that your block is highly likely to be a '36 block with replaceable main bearings.

While it is a desirable block, it is only worth a fraction of what '32 blocks sell for.

That chart of remanufactured engines is really screwed up. It shows a '32 block for '33-'34 trucks, a post-'32 block for '32 passenger cars, and a '32 block for '33-'34 passenger cars. (It's from Ford, not something the Van Pelt's created.)

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

Not all blocks marked LB are actually loose or large main bearing LB blocks. Con artists have been known to stamp babbitt block engines with LB in hopes of making extra $'s on a sale. Only sure way to check that I know of is to remove oil pan and measure center to center distance between main bearing cap studs. ~ 3" = babbitted, ~ 3-1/4" = LB. I even go one more and remove a cap to make sure that bearing comes out .

Conversely, not all early 21 stud engines without an LB stamped on intake deck are babbitted mains. I have two LB engines without any LB stamping.

 

[john mullen]

ok oil pan and head will be coming off and we will see what is there.. I want to check out the bore size and condition. Ill post the findings in a few days. thanks for the advice.. John

 

[john mullen]

I pulled the head today and found a very fresh bore with 0 ring grove .080 over bore, and fresh domed pistons.. I will pull the pan and get back...