'32 B Raidator Help

The one on evilbay has the water filler cap in the wrong location if you are going to use your original grill. I see you are located in Minnesota, unless your weather is better then ours here in Michigan I would think you have time to take it to a local radiator shop and have it checked out and repaired. I did mine last winter and I think I paid $125.00 for the whole deal with no problems. You may want to contact Dick Spadaro, www.dickspadaro.com. I have had good luck with him over the years.
 
done4 said:
The one on evilbay has the water filler cap in the wrong location if you are going to use your original grill. I see you are located in Minnesota, unless your weather is better then ours here in Michigan I would think you have time to take it to a local radiator shop and have it checked out and repaired. I did mine last winter and I think I paid $125.00 for the whole deal with no problems. You may want to contact Dick Spadaro, www.dickspadaro.com. I have had good luck with him over the years.
Click to expand...

The location of the radiator filler neck shouldn't be much of a problem. I assume the original neck has been omitted from this radiator to enable a person to run a filled shell. If a dummy neck is there you can use your original cap. If there is no dummy neck attach the cap to the shell by removing the piece inside of the cap and replacing it with a strap that will hold the cap to the shell. The radiator support rods will be the wrong length but you should be able to make some temporary ones from threaded stock. Put the shell on and no one will know the difference without looking under the hood. Be sure not to run a pressure cap with the B water pump or it will leak. I agree with he suggestion about having yours repaired. It seems like a lot of money to throw at a temporary fix.

You might consider running a '30-'31 radiator in a pinch if you have one. I think it would work but never done it. The neck is in the wrong location so you would need to run a '30-'31 radiator shell (yuk). The rear hinge support will not work since the Model A used a rod and the '32 used a formed stainless hinge. The hood clamps should be enough to hold the hood down of course you will need to be careful opening it.

What do you plan to do in a few months? The answer may be part of today's solution. I hope you are not planning to change the engine.


Charlie Stephens
 
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Charlie Stephens said:
The location of the radiator filler neck shouldn't be much of a problem. I assume the original neck has been omitted from this radiator to enable a person to run a filled shell. If a dummy neck is there you can use your original cap. If there is no dummy neck attach the cap to the shell by removing the piece inside of the cap and replacing it with a strap that will hold the cap to the shell. The radiator support rods will be the wrong length but you should be able to make some temporary ones from threaded stock. Put the shell on and no one will know the difference without looking under the hood. Be sure not to run a pressure cap with the B water pump or it will leak. I agree with he suggestion about having yours repaired. It seems like a lot of money to throw at a temporary fix.

You might consider running a '30-'31 radiator in a pinch if you have one. I think it would work but never done it. The neck is in the wrong location so you would need to run a '30-'31 radiator shell (yuk). The rear hinge support will not work since the Model A used a rod and the '32 used a formed stainless hinge. The hood clamps should be enough to hold the hood down of course you will need to be careful opening it.

What do you plan to do in a few months? The answer may be part of today's solution. I hope you are not planning to change the engine.


Charlie Stephens
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Seems like the long way around the mountain for a radiator repair job?
 
A. Another Model B radiator.
B. '30-31 with modifications that will be more difficult than fixing the leak.
C. 1932 V8 radiator with some creative work involving curved hoses, radiator even more expensive than a B.

Here is a list of cheap and readily available radiators that will go right into a '32 shell:
 
Thanks for the input guys. I did bring the radiator into a local shop that does a lot of work on these old radiators and I was quoted $850 to repair it. The core needed to be replaced and one of the tanks is bad. For that price a guy could buy a new Walker.

I plan on keeping the original 4 banger in the car but the motor is tired and I hope to rebuild it someday. For now my fiance and I putt around town in the car and we don't go on long trips with it.

We are getting married this spring and I was trying to save a little money by not having to purchase a $800 radiator and maybe get by with the one I found on ebay so we can still putt around in the car this summer. I've also been looking for a decent original used B radiator but no such luck yet. If anybody has one or knows of anybody who has one to sell please pm me.

Just looking for suggestions and opinions. Thanks for the input!

J
 
Bruce Lancaster said:
A. Another Model B radiator.
B. '30-31 with modifications that will be more difficult than fixing the leak.
C. 1932 V8 radiator with some creative work involving curved hoses, radiator even more expensive than a B.

Here is a list of cheap and readily available radiators that will go right into a '32 shell:
Click to expand...

I agree with you Bruce. I have a '31 radiator but yes it requires a lot of modifications. I also have a V8 radiator but unfortunely its no good. I've been trying hard to find a decent B radiator but no such luck yet.

Thanks.
 
Originally Posted by Charlie Stephens
The location of the radiator filler neck shouldn't be much of a problem. I assume the original neck has been omitted from this radiator to enable a person to run a filled shell. If a dummy neck is there you can use your original cap. If there is no dummy neck attach the cap to the shell by removing the piece inside of the cap and replacing it with a strap that will hold the cap to the shell. The radiator support rods will be the wrong length but you should be able to make some temporary ones from threaded stock. Put the shell on and no one will know the difference without looking under the hood. Be sure not to run a pressure cap with the B water pump or it will leak. I agree with he suggestion about having yours repaired. It seems like a lot of money to throw at a temporary fix.

You might consider running a '30-'31 radiator in a pinch if you have one. I think it would work but never done it. The neck is in the wrong location so you would need to run a '30-'31 radiator shell (yuk). The rear hinge support will not work since the Model A used a rod and the '32 used a formed stainless hinge. The hood clamps should be enough to hold the hood down of course you will need to be careful opening it.

What do you plan to do in a few months? The answer may be part of today's solution. I hope you are not planning to change the engine.


Charlie Stephens
done4 said:
Seems like the long way around the mountain for a radiator repair job?
Click to expand...

Not so long if you or a friend happen to have the parts setting around. But I agree, repair or replace is the way to go. I think he should also try another radiator shop, the first one didn't seem to want the work.

Charlie Stephens
 
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A slightly desperate kludge, possibly workable, and almost certainly capable of cooling a banger, though not a flathead:
Several rodders have reported that '65 type Mustang radiators, readily available in repro, can go into Ford shells. Not exactly a fit, but small enough and so no conflict.
In a '32 shell it would be decently hidden from public view and shame and could probably be hung in their with fairly simple strapping...or maybe the side straps from your deceased radiator as a foundation. Almost certainly low enough so cap would not be a prob.
Don't know which side hoses go to on early Mustangs...assuming use of parts house curved hoses, upper wouldn't matter much, lower might...just don't raise your hood in public!
 
Around here,rad shops dont want to repair rads,they cite enviro concerns from breathing acid etc,but they dont mind recoring for $850 or so-then they dont mind the fumes!They dont even wont to remove the tanks & rod them out. I have repaired rad leaks myself.Twist some fins loose in the area to be repaired and get the area absolutely clean with acid before you solder.The secret is to get it clean.Dont get it too hot or you will make it worse.
 
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