32 amp gauge

[hb32]

After many years, my pickup is finally drivable and running but now with a no start issue. Quit all of a sudden and ran a wire directly from batt to red coil wire at switch and it fired right up. First thought it may be the column switch so disconnected it and wired in a on/off toggle switch, no joy. Looking at my wiring schematic and appears that power from batt goes through the amp gauge. Notice that the needle is stuck to the charge position and never fluctuates regardless if it is running or not. Kind of think it’s the gauge. Can I take it out of the system or do I need some kind of resistance? Later 59a, 3 brush gen and 6 volt positive ground.

 

[Tinker]

The old ammeter, can run backwards depending on which way you run the wire. You don't really need it to run and it doesn't effect charging or running. Just lets you know what is happening. No resistance from the gauge that would effect anything.


Some guys like to replace them with a volt meter as a ammeter can be problematic and can over heat I guess. works for me and never had a issue.

 

[Kerk]

A faulty cut out can cause the gage to fail -- Burn out Just my experience kx

 

[hb32]

The old ammeter, can run backwards depending on which way you run the wire. You don't really need it to run and it doesn't effect charging or running. Just lets you know what is happening. No resistance from the gauge that would effect anything.


Some guys like to replace them with a volt meter as a ammeter can be problematic and can over heat I guess. works for me and never had a issue.

Thanks and answers my question

 

[rotorwrench]

Most of the old meters have a little spring to return the needle to center unless it is counter weighted or magnetically centered. The needle may also have slipped on the armature. Many of these types of meters can be repaired but it would be advisable to send it out to an experienced instrument restoration service. Amp meter just take a sample of the electrical energy that flows through them. I suppose that one could be fried to the point that the shunt is burned out but a quick check with a Volt/Ohm meter or 6-volt test light would rectify that possibility.

If your commercial vehicle has a V8, there may be a problem with the ballast resistor. I'm not sure if the model B 4-cylinder had this or what coil it used but if it was like the model A then it may not have a ballast resistor. In that case the switch & the wire would be the only things to check.

 

[hb32]

I have replaced the engine with a 59a and there is no resistor at this point. Researching to see if I need one and many opinions with the 6 volt positive ground. Am I able to take the present ammeter out of the system to get it running? Do I need the resistor?

 

[Charlie Stephens]

I have replaced the engine with a 59a and there is no resistor at this point. Researching to see if I need one and many opinions with the 6 volt positive ground. Am I able to take the present ammeter out of the system to get it running? Do I need the resistor?

The '32 V8 used a resister and I assume the vehicle the 59a came out of did also. That tells me to use a resister. The Model B did not use a resister but that is a different electrical system. It is my understanding that omitting the resister will burn out the coil.

Another topic. If you have a generator that puts out more than 20 amps I would recommend adding a shunt across the ammeter to take some of the amperage (see photo).

Charlie Stephens

 

[rotorwrench]

It depends entirely on what coil a person is using. If it has a helmet type distributor or a later crab/rabbit ear distributor and is using an original type coil depending on application, then it would need the early type ballast resistor used between 1932 and 1948 by application. If it has a can type coil conversion set up then it shouldn't need a ballast if it is a 1.5 ohm primary type coil.

You can bypass the amp meter if needed but I would want one if it were me. Decent amp meters still show up now and then even for 1932 commercials or there abouts.

Charlie's right on about use of a shunt for an old original amp meter that is using a later type generator with higher output. The old 20 amp 3-brush type generators with the cut out didn't need it. the extra length of shunt wire will help protect the amp meter.

 

[Charlie Stephens]

It depends entirely on what coil a person is using. If it has a helmet type distributor or a later crab/rabbit ear distributor and is using an original type coil depending on application, then it would need the early type ballast resistor used between 1932 and 1948 by application. If it has a can type coil conversion set up then it shouldn't need a ballast if it is a 1.5 ohm primary type coil.

You can bypass the amp meter if needed but I would want one if it were me. Decent amp meters still show up now and then even for 1932 commercials or there abouts.

Charlie's right on about use of a shunt for an old original amp meter that is using a later type generator with higher output. The old 20 amp 3-brush type generators with the cut out didn't need it. the extra length of shunt wire will help protect the amp meter.

Please correct me if I am wrong but I think the passenger car and commercial use the same ammeter?

Charlie Stephens

 

[DavidG]

Charlie,

All North American-sourced '32s, be they passenger cars, commercial vehicles, or big trucks were originally equipped with the same ammeter (+/- 20 amps) and it came with a chrome-plated bezel. 1933 and 1934 pickups and panel deliveries and BB trucks used the same ammeter with a transition to +/- 30 amps gauges in the '34 model year. Those gauges with black-painted bezels are likely wartime service parts when nickel and chrome were strategic materials.

The ammeters originally used in non-North American '32 production often had slightly different dial faces depending on their manufacturing source, but were still of the +/- 20 amp variety.

 

[rockfla]

Charlie,

All North American-sourced '32s, be they passenger cars, commercial vehicles, or big trucks were originally equipped with the same ammeter (+/- 20 amps) and it came with a chrome-plated bezel. 1933 and 1934 pickups and panel deliveries and BB trucks used the same ammeter with a transition to +/- 30 amps gauges in the '34 model year. Those gauges with black-painted bezels are likely wartime service parts when nickel and chrome were strategic materials.

The ammeters originally used in non-North American '32 production often had slightly different dial faces depending on their manufacturing source, but were still of the +/- 20 amp variety.

Charlie
An example of the gauge DavidG speaks of with the "Different" face NOT an example of the "late" gauge as DavidG has educated me on........AND an example of a previous poster in this thread of a "potential" out of balance needle.