I have about 2 1/2" of play in my steering wheel. I have attempted to adjust the steering gear following the steps outlined in 2 or 3 books and can't seem to get the play out of the steering wheel. All of the other components seem to be tight and the toe-in seems to be in line with the guidelines. I got the measurement with the car sitting on the floor with the weight on it and turning the wheel without moving the wheels at all. Is this a sign that the steering gear needs to be rebuilt or should I be looking at something else. I have read countless posts on this subject but can"t seem to get the answer. Thanks in advance for any advice or opinions.
31 Steering Gear Problems?
- Thread starter lrjones
- Start date
Patrick L.
Well-known member
Have you tried following the instructions in the service bulletins ? You should have a 2 tooth box and not the earlier 7 tooth.
Yes, I have a 2 tooth box and have gone through all of the adjustments from the service bulletins and the Les Andrews book. I should mention as well that when I got the car it had grease in the steering box and steered quite hard. I have taken out alot of the grease and replaced it with the proper gear oil which might have made it steer a little easier, but still a little hard. I believe the steering stabilizer the previous owner put on it contributes to the hard steering.
Patrick L.
Well-known member
The steering stabilizers are just a band aid for other issues and have been known to 'warp' the tie-rod.
Maybe your box is beyond adjustment. Generally going thru all the adjustments several times will correct the problems with the box.
Filling the box with grease is common, and, not a good thing. Many had/have a grease fitting for the fill plug thinking it should greased. It was actually for use of a dedicated grease gun filled with very heavy oil.
Most of the vendors have all the parts for a rebuild and also have exchange boxes.
Maybe your box is beyond adjustment. Generally going thru all the adjustments several times will correct the problems with the box.
Filling the box with grease is common, and, not a good thing. Many had/have a grease fitting for the fill plug thinking it should greased. It was actually for use of a dedicated grease gun filled with very heavy oil.
Most of the vendors have all the parts for a rebuild and also have exchange boxes.
Joe K
Well-known member
The only way I've found to do the steering box adjustment with some confidence is to do it "out" of the vehicle and on the workbench.
If done right, you get to the point where the pitman arm *almost* binds in the center of span but you have equal free play of the pitman (and there will be some) at either end of travel.
The camber/caster work to keep THIS free play "one way" when you're driving and for you the driver you don't notice any free play - but be assured it is there, just as you finished up the steering box on the work bench.
IF you still have a sensation of free play after doing the column right, then your source of free play is elsewhere - possibly in your pitman arm connection to the square steering shaft, looseness in the drag link connection, in the kingpins/spindles/axle connections themselves? Possibly even in your wishbone/ball connection to the bell housing bottom (although this is unlikely - this would have to move a LOT to be detectable at the wheel.)
With the steering centered, try shaking the pitman arm to detect looseness. Then work your way back into the steering gear.
Note here I'm not testing for free motion at the drivers wheel. You already KNOW this is right if you did the setup correctly.
A remote possibility is that you may have a bent front axle. Remember my statement above about end of travel steering box free play being "one way" and not being sensed by the driver? If your front end geometry (camber/caster) is not correct due to a bent axle, then it will be possible for the steering gear to not "self center" and "drift" into that free play zone, and you may find the steering unresponsive until you turn the wheel to the edge of the free play envelope.
Hope this helps.
Joe K
If done right, you get to the point where the pitman arm *almost* binds in the center of span but you have equal free play of the pitman (and there will be some) at either end of travel.
The camber/caster work to keep THIS free play "one way" when you're driving and for you the driver you don't notice any free play - but be assured it is there, just as you finished up the steering box on the work bench.
IF you still have a sensation of free play after doing the column right, then your source of free play is elsewhere - possibly in your pitman arm connection to the square steering shaft, looseness in the drag link connection, in the kingpins/spindles/axle connections themselves? Possibly even in your wishbone/ball connection to the bell housing bottom (although this is unlikely - this would have to move a LOT to be detectable at the wheel.)
With the steering centered, try shaking the pitman arm to detect looseness. Then work your way back into the steering gear.
Note here I'm not testing for free motion at the drivers wheel. You already KNOW this is right if you did the setup correctly.
A remote possibility is that you may have a bent front axle. Remember my statement above about end of travel steering box free play being "one way" and not being sensed by the driver? If your front end geometry (camber/caster) is not correct due to a bent axle, then it will be possible for the steering gear to not "self center" and "drift" into that free play zone, and you may find the steering unresponsive until you turn the wheel to the edge of the free play envelope.
Hope this helps.
Joe K
Marshall V. Daut
Well-known member
If a previous owner had put grease in the steering box, you can bet that the two-tooth sector teeth are history. They will have deep wear grooves in them, sometimes on both sides of each tooth, but usually in the centers. No amount of adjusting will get the play out of the steering action if there is wear on these teeth. The wear to the worm gear is harder to judge, but it's there, too. Worn sector teeth + worn worm gear + worn sector bushings = unadjustable slop.
These gears were not designed to operate with grease as lubricant. The problem with grease is that it does not cling, so after a few turns, the grease is squeezed out from between the sector teeth and worm. The lack of lubrication leads to metal against metal contact, prematurely creating wear. A lube such as 600w or equivalent (Penrite?) is needed because it will cling to the gears and constantly lubricate the gears and bearings.
If you have established for sure that none of the other steering parts are loose or worn, you are looking at pulling the steering column out and replacing at least the worm and sector, as well as the sector bushings, which because grease could not enter the sector housing to lube the shaft, will also be worn undersized. If a zerk fitting is present in the sector housing, it was intended for introduction of lube, not grease. Such a zerk fitting is often retro-added to a two-tooth, but standard in the seven-tooth. Originally this fitting would be used at Ford dealerships for high pressure introduction of fluid lube, NOT chassis grease, as so many misinformed restorers mistakenly do.
Marshall
These gears were not designed to operate with grease as lubricant. The problem with grease is that it does not cling, so after a few turns, the grease is squeezed out from between the sector teeth and worm. The lack of lubrication leads to metal against metal contact, prematurely creating wear. A lube such as 600w or equivalent (Penrite?) is needed because it will cling to the gears and constantly lubricate the gears and bearings.
If you have established for sure that none of the other steering parts are loose or worn, you are looking at pulling the steering column out and replacing at least the worm and sector, as well as the sector bushings, which because grease could not enter the sector housing to lube the shaft, will also be worn undersized. If a zerk fitting is present in the sector housing, it was intended for introduction of lube, not grease. Such a zerk fitting is often retro-added to a two-tooth, but standard in the seven-tooth. Originally this fitting would be used at Ford dealerships for high pressure introduction of fluid lube, NOT chassis grease, as so many misinformed restorers mistakenly do.
Marshall
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Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
Also check the two mounting to frame bolts.
Jacksonlll
Well-known member
Sounds to me that you need a new worm gear and sector shaft/gear. The worm wears in the middle and you can't adjust it out.