31 roadster reproduction door

G

Garychinook

Member
Howdy,
I searched threads and come up fallow for info as the quality of a reproduction left door for a 31 roadster.
So who makes them and opinions about the fit and quality against an original.

I'd rather go original.
However, my posting in wanted and other searches is coming up short so I'm looking at a reproduction alternative.

Fire away and thanks,
Gary:)
 
Although I am a 28/29 guy, I am pretty sure the only manufacture of the 30/31 roadster doors is Brookville Roadster in Ohio. From what I have heard and seen, they are close, but you can tell the difference from original doors in several details. As you probably know, original doors are getting very hard to find in restorable condition. Three years ago I sold a pair or original 30/31 doors that had no rust-outs, but needed a fair amount of body work due to a number of dents for $750 at Hershey. They would probably bring more now. Maybe someone has a pair of Brookville doors and can explain the minor differences between original doors and the repro doors.
Rusty Nelson
 
We used a Brookville body, which has the doors, in a project. They are of very good quality and fit well. Of course it was the whole body not sure about the fit of the door to an original. We have a set of doors to go onto an original body but haven't started the fitting process.
 
I used one of Brookville's doors on my phaeton (same as a roadster front door), and it fit really nice. Remember to put some sound deadening in it, or it will sound like a tin can when you shut it.
 
Thanks guys,
That was helpful. I'll burn a little more time searching for an original. I usually call Steve @ Bert's and will do so tomorrow. If no luck in a month I go repro and maybe I can massage it a little to more closely match my original which is welded, brazed, leaded, bondoed and bent.

Gary
 
Gary, exactly what is wrong with your door? Is it missing, -or just in bad shape?

Something that I find that many people overlook. Albrecht makes the outer skin and AAS manufactures the rest, however when the skin is installed at AAS, there is only a brass tack weld or two placed on the skin. It is the restorers responsibility to fit the door to the body and then properly spot weld the skin to the inner panel. This is huge when it comes to fit and rigidity.
 
last 6 doors Ive been through have had no welds . the tiny tacks through the flange to inner are verrry important like Brent says .
 
Yes Brent is right. The left door fit perfectly on my 30 Brookville body but the right was a battle and never was quite right. It seems when the outer skin was brazed on it had a twist in it, I tried to bring it in without melting out the brass because I was afraid of making it worse because of the heat, best approach would have been to buy a new skin and grind off the old one then rebraze the new skin in place. That outer skin has to be brazed in place carefully so the door doesn't get warped and twisted.
 
If you have your original door and the inner is repairable consider just using a new outer skin (they are pretty nice).

Align the body to the frame BEFORE fitting the new door or outer panel. The twist of the door can change so you want a reference to match it to. The cowl and the "B" posts should be "square" across the body (diagonal top-bottom-opposite sides should be the same). If your original door is ok for twist you should align with that.

When you crimp the new skin on the inner there will still be some flex when you twist the door. Find the right twist and spot weld the inside flange of the outer to the inner.

If you are using a repro inner I recommend you fit it to the car before the outer is put on. Its a lot easier to make sure the hinge mounts, latch mounts and dovetail socket are correct without the outer skin.
 
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