31 Model A fordor bodies

gdmn852 said:
Hello again, I think the op might have more time than money to work with.As with my previous post I agree with you on the cost , was thinking about building a “new”roadster with a Brookville body, but actually found it more cost effective to buy a complete car that needs restored, but even then will probably have more in it than it is worth, but I don’t look at them as “investments”,but enjoy driving and even working on them.A friend of mine has a fantastic Model Railroad and has $$$ in it but it is not about the money but personal enjoyment, I think that is what the op is trying to explain.
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Exactly, I do know that cars can be, but not always expensive to build. I am a scrapper and live on an income of under 4k a year to be blunt. and everything i do is budgeted. I also know where to get about 1/2 of the parts for good prices through the clubs and friends. the chassis will be about 1k, and the body will be about 2-3k, so I have to budget accordingly to my needs. I want to by the end of the day, have a running driving fordor for around 15k or less if preferable. now that's not including everything like a mitchell od for example, but to get the car on the road, that how much I can spend and still eat.
 
well if you can spend that- then back to what everyone said, dont piece it together. buy the best you can buy and go from there.
the cheap mentality is not that cheap.........
 
Sunny the Model A said:
Hi Yall I got a few questions for you. before I get started, I just want to say this is all theoretical at the moment, I wont be doing this for a while and there is nothing being done yet but ideas are brewing. I want to build a Model A indented firewall fordor from the ground up. I know where to find a 30-31 chassis, engine, fenders and rad. but I would like to know where I can find a fordor body in decent shape I can plop on the frame I am eyeing. I will only own indented firewalls because they are safer than standard a's with the gas valve in the car and the bracket for the column is on the dash rail. I don't want a whole car, just a body, as I will be going through everything so I can make a future daily out of it. I know the 30-31 bodies will all accept a indented firewall and a indented firewall gas tank. I am not looking for a numbers matching car, but a reliable four door sedan I can use. Thanks for your time. Oh and postscript, I am not building a hotrod I am building with a stock body, stock engine and ******. only deviations from stock are a mitchell overdrive, 4.11 gears and led lights.
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I agree with others that you will have as much or more in your proposed build than buying a running/driving car. If you can make do with a Tudor, they're usually a little cheaper than a Fordor. But with some shopping around, you can find an original or older restoration of either body style within your budget.

If I understand correctly, your safety concern is gas leaking from the inside valve and/or tank-mounted steering column support. Here's a video about modifying the valve to be leakless:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZ0RKAyyEk4

If you're planning on building a MoPar turbine, you probably have the skill and equipment to modify the valve. If not, I'd think a machine shop could do it for reasonable cost.

IIRC, the dash-mounted column support is a bolt-on for 30-31 and adaptable to 28-29 with minor modification. If the tank support is leaking, it could be removed and the rivet holes welded closed. Tanks have been safely welded IF the welder knows how to do it.

Those modifications should address your concerns cheaper and easier than replacing a firewall, tank, etc. They also will expand your sedan search range to include 28-29 as well as 30-31, maybe making it easier to find a car in your price range.
 
CHuDWah said:
I agree with others that you will have as much or more in your proposed build than buying a running/driving car. If you can make do with a Tudor, they're usually a little cheaper than a Fordor. But with some shopping around, you can find an original or older restoration of either body style within your budget.

If I understand correctly, your safety concern is gas leaking from the inside valve and/or tank-mounted steering column support. Here's a video about modifying the valve to be leakless:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZ0RKAyyEk4

If you're planning on building a MoPar turbine, you probably have the skill and equipment to modify the valve. If not, I'd think a machine shop could do it for reasonable cost.

IIRC, the dash-mounted column support is a bolt-on for 30-31 and adaptable to 28-29 with minor modification. If the tank support is leaking, it could be removed and the rivet holes welded closed. Tanks have been safely welded IF the welder knows how to do it.

Those modifications should address your concerns cheaper and easier than replacing a firewall, tank, etc. They also will expand your sedan search range to include 28-29 as well as 30-31, maybe making it easier to find a car in your price range.
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I like those ideas. the only real requirements for this build/car is 30-31 sedan that can be daily driven for less than 15k 10k or less is preferred. I do like the 30-31 cars better than the 28-29s because of the higher rad and they look more like a model k Lincoln than a model t. just my 2 cents though. the I can weld and repair to some degree and since I have a parts source where I can get half the parts I need for next to nothing. that's why i want to build it rather than buy it. makes it more unique to piece a car together. I own an indented firewall model a truck and am quite fond of the fact that all of the fuel system is outside. I set my car and a 30 fordor of a local friend's and compared firewalls the only difference is the indention itself. so theoretically we could take our tanks and firewalls and swap 'em. should be fairly easy to do. I got another friend down in Florida who has done his last car so to speak and wants me to have a bunch of his parts. blocks, heads, cams, cranks, wheels, carbs, ****** parts, brake parts, you name it. all for a really good price. and with the roller chassis near me, its practically half done already. if I were to buy the whole thing, I really don't know if things were done right, or if it needs a major overhaul. I I want to be able for the car to hold up to the rigors of dailying and potentially heavy use, so I can drive without fear of getting stranded in the middle of nowhere. I need a go anywhere, do anything run on anything car and the model a is the car I know better than any other so thats why I am after an A. might as well just skip tearing the whole car apart and go directly go to the inspection and repair phase. I am not in the mood for a 10-15 year build, just don't have that kind of spare time. I want to go to work on one section at a time doing the things I know best like engine work and chassis stuff, once that's out of the way I could concentrate on just the body and build that up. if I go buy the chassis, all I need is a body to put on it. don't want a roadster or a coupe really because they are not super practical at the end of the day. a sedan is almost like a 1930's ford explorer if you look at it that way.
 
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ronn said:
on the hamb


1931 Model A Slant Windshield
City: Texoma

State: TEXAS!
Price: 6500 obo
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Here ya go! Looked at the ad. Comes with trailer hitch and extra front axle. If interior door hardware is still intact, and all the glass seems to be there, you are in business. This is waaay cheaper and easier than trying to piece one together. I have put together a 28 roadster and 28 Phaeton together from pieces. Never again! Sooo not worth it. Been there done that. Just find a cheap complete car, and you will be driving it in less than two years. The Phaeton took me four years, and I had all the necessary parts to finish. Just sayin'
 
TX car now 5500. and hungry for offers......you can buy that car today for 4500.

wanna bet? what are you waiting for? :)
 
Hello again, that doesn’t sound too bad for a complete 31 S/W . If closer to Pa I would be tempted,a lot of parts are particular for a Slant Windshield only and hopefully they are all there . Plan on $10000 at least for restoring though ,interiors are expensive along with engine work.
 
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