31 Gas gage

48Ratfink

48Ratfink

Senior Member
How hard is it to rebuild the fuel gage in a 31 Coupe? I ran out of gas yesterday so I guess this needs to be My next fix!
 
Not hard. You need the tools to remove the guage. Buy the better of the two guage removal tools available. Replace the cork float with a neoprene float.
 
This is what the gas gauge looks like. It's a cork on a wire that is attached to the (F--1/2--E) read out behind the sight glass.

- Remove the dash panel with the Ammeter/key switch
- Unscrew gas gauge it from the front of the tank
- Replace the cork with the Neoprene float (modern gas kills that cork so it wont float)
- put the gauge back in the tank.

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48Ratfink said:
How hard is it to rebuild the fuel gage in a 31 Coupe? I ran out of gas yesterday so I guess this needs to be My next fix!
Click to expand...

Not hard at all! Follow the others advice given here.
A few of my thots:
-disconnect battery..or master shutoff switch:cool:
-make of gig(spec tool);
-buy the best tool available;
-clean everything very clean;
-alternative (improvement)over cork/neoprene float: carb float;a little more work(soldering)but worth no more worries;
-when installing gaskets(whichever)coat all surfaces lightly with aunt jamima surrup(you read right..got this from a barner and it worked perfect) My take is that is allows slight slippage when final firm tightening AND seals great when dry..give it a chance to dry after assembly:)
Last but not least, make a special tool...from a coathanger. Sharpen on end to a point and with a loop for holding on the other end. Shine you flashlight into the (nearly) empty tank and gig that dead cork float for removal:cool:!
 
Not hard my arss! You need good sharp tools to fit the bezel nut. Don't use the repro tools, they will ruin your hardware or break.

GW
 
It really is an easy job, I've done two, The 1st, I did not have the right tool's so I used a pair of waterpumps and a ford wrench. No problem, The second I did use the cheap set of tool's from Mike's A- fordable Agin no problem. I guess it depends if it's ever been done on that vech. The two that I did had not been done in a very long time from look's of the cork float and seals.
If I had the tank drained and the tool's out plus the parts...Start to fnish in no rush 20-30 min's.;)
 
Ratfink,
After you have guage back in, open winshhield and take a longwire hook and pull up on guage wire until float clunks on top of tank. Guage should read "F." If not, remove guage and tweek float wire until it reads "F." When set like this, when it reads "E" you will have about a gallon of gas left. (THEN, CUT A TRAIL TO "BAD BUD'S"FOR GAS)
 
You do need the special tools and you need to observe some safety precautions. Don't smoke while you are doing this. Lift the fuse or disconnect the battery. Resist the temptation to use a vacuum cleaner to clean out gauge boss (sparks from the brushes will ignite the fumes sucked into the vacuum).

On my cars instead of using a cork or a neoprene float I used a salvaged brass float out of a Tillotson carburetor. They are small enough to fit through the gauge boss and nothing they will put in the gas will destroy it. I just soldered them on the end of the wand.

Tom Endy
 
Make sure it travels free and clear. Mine hung up on on the flame arrestor and I ran out of gas on my first outing. It hung on a quarter of a tank. I thought I was getting great mileage. Someone had to win the dummy award that year.
 
It may not solve your problem but you can adjust these gauges without removing them. Take something and reach into the tank to bend the wire holding the float. A good method is to take two old brake rods and cut them off about 12 inches from the end that takes the pin. Make a slot in the end to allow the rod to go over the wire holding the float. Push and pull to bend the rod as required.

Charlie Stephens
 
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Charlie Stephens said:
It may not solve your problem but you can adjust these gauges without removing them. Take something and reach into the tank to bend the wire holding the float. A good method is to take two old brake rods and cut them off about 12 inches from the end that takes the pin. Make a slot in the end to allow the rod to go over the ire holding the float. Push and pull to bend the rod as required.

Charlie Stephens
Click to expand...

I like that!
 
Be aware that some of the repro inner nuts don't fit! I had one that either the threads weren't cut deep enough, or the plating was too thick.
 
Also buy the gas guage wrench holder Part #13525 that Bratton's sells. It helps a little if you have a stubborn outer nut. The holder helps tp keep the thin outer nut wrench from slipping off the outer nut. You can lightly rap the wrench to free the outer nut using the holder. Only buy the steel gas guage removal tools. The cast aluminum version tools are worthless.
 
I keep hearing that gasahol destroys the cork floats. I know alcohol dissolves varnish that was the original coating but how long before that becomes a problem? I replaced the float in one car with a new cork float about 35 years ago and another over 20 years ago. I run almost exclusively 10% ethanol gas and the gauges are still working fine. How long until this becomes a problem?
 
No offense, but only you will know on yours. Not a hard job as others have stated. I'd do some preventive maintainance. JMO
Paul in CT
 
Jerry Parr WI said:
I keep hearing that gasahol destroys the cork floats. I know alcohol dissolves varnish that was the original coating but how long before that becomes a problem? I replaced the float in one car with a new cork float about 35 years ago and another over 20 years ago. I run almost exclusively 10% ethanol gas and the gauges are still working fine. How long until this becomes a problem?
Click to expand...

My original cork was dried and crumbling, so I replaced it about 10 years ago. It's still working fine, but for the past 3 years I only use the good gas.
 
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