31 Ford Stalling Issue

3

31 Ford Pa.

Junior Member
My 31 Model A Coupe has developed a stalling issue and I need some input on where to resolve this issue.
It will start right up and I can drive it for approx. 3 miles and it will just die. Let it sit for about 10 minutes, starts right up but then about another 2 miles it will die again. Sits for 10 minutes, starts right up but then 1 mile later it stalled and would not start.
Had it towed home and an hour later, it started right up!
I`ve checked the point gap setting, recently installed a new condenser ( before this started to happen ) know I have half tank of gas, disconnected gas line to carb, verified gas flow, checked fuel filter.
It acts as if I`ve turned the key to the "off" position when this happens.
Any help would be appreciated.

DC
 
Could be that your gas line into the carb is too long and cramping up against the filter screen, thereby restricting flow. Check the position of the ferrule on the end of the line; it shouldn't extend much more than 1/16". You might also hace rusty crud inthe gas tank settling around your outflow. There are screen extensions to install in the shutoff valve tao work around that. Not true if you have a late 31.
 
Standard question. What was the last thing you did to the car before the problem started? Any chance the vented cap on the gas tank is plugged (or you have the wrong cap)?

Charlie Stephens
 
I would suspect the condenser if it was the last thing you replaced and
it was running ok before.

Bob
 
Have you verified spark/fuel WHEN it doesn't start? 10 minutes is plenty of time to troubleshoot the problem. For a quick test, loosen or remove the gas cap. Pull a sparkplug tab and check for spark while cranking.
 
If you're sure fuel is not the issue maybe when the car will not start try is to see the spark:

http://modelabasics.com/Ignition.htm

Tom Wesenberg Tip:
"To check coil polarity hold a pencil lead in the spark path with the plug wire about a third of an inch away from the distributor terminal. You’ll see a FLARE on one side of the pencil lead and this flare should be on the spark plug side of the lead." Tom suggests to hold the pencil in the middle or even slide the pencil into a plastic tube to avoid an electrical shock.

If the flare is on the plug wire side. Switch the two wires on the coil.
Polarity%20Pencil.gif

Idea is to see what spark if any at that point you have
 
I`m looking at ignition switch. I read article that the pop switches will get hot and cause engine to stop running.
Has anyone ever had this issue before or know of someone who has?
 
I've had the spring connector on the end of the threaded plug going into the distributor separate before (not with a pop out switch, but the plug is similar). Symptoms weren't temperature related but were sporadic. Easy to check, unthread it and it will pop out in you hand.
 
coil could be opening up,and when cooling down will work again,next time it quits check for spark,it is either spark or gas flow.
 
I've seen original popout switch wires short to ground due to old brittle insulation. I've also seen the head of the original popout give trouble due to too much graphite inside the switch head.

My repro switch gave a lot of trouble due to contact making a poor connection. I found it when I barely touched the key and the engine died.
 
If you have read the posts of the past week or so, you will read of "modern" points going bad right away or real soon after installation. Since this has happened right after you replaced the points and nothing else was touched, I ask again, do you have a modern point set up?
 
I removed the gas line this morning and opened up the gas valve. In my opinion I`m not sure if theres enough flow to carb and that's why its stalling.
Theres enough gas to start the engine but when theres a demand (speed) the flow is not enough so it stalls. After sitting 10 minutes it will start again but repeat the cycle of stalling. Thinking the 10 minute time is enough to fill bowl in carb again so it starts then when demand is needed, it stalls.
Has anyone ever had issue with gas valve flow?
 
I think I have resolved the stalling issue. I noticed that the Spark Advance linkage had come off and not allowing any spark advance. Spark Advance must of stayed in the position when the rod fallen off. My theory is that it would start and run, then stall after awhile because the Advance was not enough.
I reconnected the rod and started the car, let it idle for a good 30 minutes and it was still running when I shut it off.
Tomorrow I will take it on a test drive and see how it does.
Either way I want to thank everyone for their suggestions on what to look for. It was a big help and much appreciated.
 
31 Ford Pa. said:
My 31 Model A Coupe has developed a stalling issue and I need some input on where to resolve this issue.
It will start right up and I can drive it for approx. 3 miles and it will just die. Let it sit for about 10 minutes, starts right up but then about another 2 miles it will die again. Sits for 10 minutes, starts right up but then 1 mile later it stalled and would not start.
Had it towed home and an hour later, it started right up!
I`ve checked the point gap setting, recently installed a new condenser ( before this started to happen ) know I have half tank of gas, disconnected gas line to carb, verified gas flow, checked fuel filter.
It acts as if I`ve turned the key to the "off" position when this happens.
Any help would be appreciated.

DC
Click to expand...
Bumping this old thread because the symptoms of my problem are exactly the same. Prior to this there were no similar problems. The last change: one morning the car did not start right away, the battery ran dead cranking. Not knowing for sure how old it was (I estimate 4-5 years) I replaced the battery. Started and ran good for that entire day. The car was idle for about 5 days. Then when I attempted to start, the battery was stone dead. Charged it, and was able to start and run for a bit but then started to show the stalling and restarting symptoms described above. One hour later, not enough cranking power, so I recharged with a different (better/newer) charger, but according to that charger gauge, it would only show charge to 50% - not enough cranking power. Brought back to the store and it tested as a “Good Battery” and was recharged to 100%. However, I have some doubts since the staff at the store were a little baffled on how to set up their tester and charger for a 6 Volt battery. As of last attempt I have plenty of cranking power but will not start after a couple minutes as before. I pulled the coil wire and see no spark to ground when cranking.
So before I evaluate all the possibilities I found searching this forum, I thought I’d ask if it is possible that all of this could be caused by a defective battery or is it more likely another problem (coincidentally) exists with say with ignition wire, condenser, or coil as mentioned elsewhere in this thread and others??
 
Check the grounds, have the points worn at the rubbing block? All wiring connections tight, and brite? good connection for the ground to the center cross frame? auxilary ground strap from there to the bell housing?
The lower plate to upper plate wire in the distributor may be bad, or grounding.
or the ignition cable may be screwed in to the distributor body too far.
Bob
 
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