Hey guys, new to the forum. I have 31 ford coupe that I have been rebuilding for almost 2 yrs. I had no trim for the ragtop , and the metal trim I bought, I can bend around the back corners. Bought some rubber, but that doesn’t look good for me. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Best
31 ford coupe ragtop
- Thread starter Homegrown
- Start date
Model A Canuck
Senior Member
Welcome to the Barn
You might find what you need here
https://www.convertibletopguys.com/convertible/3614/1930-31-Ford-Model-A-Deluxe-Roadster
You might find what you need here
https://www.convertibletopguys.com/convertible/3614/1930-31-Ford-Model-A-Deluxe-Roadster
Bob Bidonde
Well-known member
Contact Mike at Classtique.
https://www.classtiqueupholstery.com/index.php
https://www.classtiqueupholstery.com/index.php
Keith True
Well-known member
For metal trim you will most likely have to make up a buck to pre-bend the metal trim around.A piece of wood cut to the radius of what you need for the corner,screwed down to a bench.Once you get the first corner bent the second one is even more fun.On that one you have to bend it so your trim is in the EXACT spot it needs to be on your seam.On my Coupe I had a few years ago,and on the one I have now,they didn't use the metal trim.They used kind of a hidem welt,a composite piece of trim that you nail down and fold the flap down over the center.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
Getting the reproduction moldings to fit is a process. They used the type #3 5/8" extruded aluminum trim with the center rib on the bottom. This is what Ford used on 45B cars till May 31, 1931. They used the steel trim with the rubber filler strip to cover the nails from June 1, 1931 on. The original aluminum type was a bend the open lips down after nailing design.
To form a straight stick of that stuff requires a radius form easily fabricated from wood to bend the aluminum. A person can use two radius forms added to a longer piece of wood to get the opening coverage in the proper location for those two rear bends. The process of annealing the extruded aluminum is best done with an oxy/acetylene torch but it depends on the procedure a person follows. I use acetylene to apply soot to the area to be annealed and then heat it in that spot to just burn the soot off. The part cools slowly and then is soft enough to form. I would highly recommend this process to make a better job of it. The aluminum is harder to work and tends to bunch up on the inside turn if not softened a good bit. Annealing can be done in stages if it starts to work harden during the bending process.
They didn't use poultry wire on the coupes. They used the black duck material which is a lot like denim. It's heavy enough to keep the shape pretty well. Some folks insist on the wire netting but it's not original for 45B coupes. If your wood has loose holes in the tacking areas when it's a good idea to fill them with toothpick like wood fillers glued in to restore a good tacking line. New wood would make it easier to get a good long lasting fit. The cotton padding was relatively thin on originals so keep that in mind before adding the pad layer.
PS: The reproduction bend the lip type moldings may be hard to get right now. They are shown as discontinued on sites of several sources.
To form a straight stick of that stuff requires a radius form easily fabricated from wood to bend the aluminum. A person can use two radius forms added to a longer piece of wood to get the opening coverage in the proper location for those two rear bends. The process of annealing the extruded aluminum is best done with an oxy/acetylene torch but it depends on the procedure a person follows. I use acetylene to apply soot to the area to be annealed and then heat it in that spot to just burn the soot off. The part cools slowly and then is soft enough to form. I would highly recommend this process to make a better job of it. The aluminum is harder to work and tends to bunch up on the inside turn if not softened a good bit. Annealing can be done in stages if it starts to work harden during the bending process.
They didn't use poultry wire on the coupes. They used the black duck material which is a lot like denim. It's heavy enough to keep the shape pretty well. Some folks insist on the wire netting but it's not original for 45B coupes. If your wood has loose holes in the tacking areas when it's a good idea to fill them with toothpick like wood fillers glued in to restore a good tacking line. New wood would make it easier to get a good long lasting fit. The cotton padding was relatively thin on originals so keep that in mind before adding the pad layer.
PS: The reproduction bend the lip type moldings may be hard to get right now. They are shown as discontinued on sites of several sources.
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Keith True
Well-known member
Homegrown,that top is beautiful,but nowhere near the original style.That's a custom built street rod type of thing.There was no strip of metal between the visor and the top material.The fabric went all the way to the visor.I like the hidem welt down the sides and across the rear,and the aluminum strip across the front.
Terry Burtz Calif
Senior Member
I no longer make the aluminum molding for the sides and rear. The front molding is still available from parts houses. The front molding can cosmetically be used for the sides and rear. See the "Restoration Guidelines and Judging Standards" for the differences between the 2 moldings.