30w oil
- Thread starter Jynx
- Start date
Zinc is a type of extreme pressure additive to prevent/reduce cam lobe/lifter wear in engines with high valve spring pressure. It had nothing to do with Babbitt bearings. Not needed there.
Synchro909
Well-known member
I agree with that. Engine oils in the day were not very good. Even the cheapest oil available today is light years ahead of anything they had back then.
I use what ever oil is on special at the shops - usually 20W50. With a 180F thermostat, the engine temperatures are high enough that it does fine.
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
I use Walmart brand 20-W-50
DD931
Well-known member
I agree with Synchro909. Oils today are so much better than in 1930 that anything would be better. We shouldn't get all wrapped around recommendations from 1930. They were fine for the technology of the day, but we've come a long way in lubrication!
As to viscosity, modern multi-viscosity oils mean you don't have to change oil between summer and winter. The chart posted by katy in post #6 shows the whole picture. I use 20W-50 myself in my old Fords and have never had a problem. 10W-40 would be fine also.
As to viscosity, modern multi-viscosity oils mean you don't have to change oil between summer and winter. The chart posted by katy in post #6 shows the whole picture. I use 20W-50 myself in my old Fords and have never had a problem. 10W-40 would be fine also.
Werner
Well-known member
Hello.
I am not sure if I have understood the core question correctly.
For vintage cars, a low viscosity can have the disadvantage that the shaft bearings leak leaking oil. Otherwise, a multi-grade oil is always better than a single range.
The most important is the API classification. Because of the non-ferrous metal compatibility. You should not go higher than "SC". Petrol engine oil API SC has anti-corrosion inhibitor, detergent cleaner, HD heavy duty additives. That is enough!
However, the oil still has to be changed many times (max. <1000 miles) because it runs without a filter and only then can the abrasion chips be taken out.
I am not sure if I have understood the core question correctly.
For vintage cars, a low viscosity can have the disadvantage that the shaft bearings leak leaking oil. Otherwise, a multi-grade oil is always better than a single range.
The most important is the API classification. Because of the non-ferrous metal compatibility. You should not go higher than "SC". Petrol engine oil API SC has anti-corrosion inhibitor, detergent cleaner, HD heavy duty additives. That is enough!
However, the oil still has to be changed many times (max. <1000 miles) because it runs without a filter and only then can the abrasion chips be taken out.
30 Closed Cab PU
Well-known member
From what I have read, not an expert.
One major reason for using multi grade oil is a large portion of wear occurs during motor warm up until the oil/motor is at operating temperature. Straight 30 weight thickens considerably at colder/cooler temps. A multi-grade like 10w30 will thicken to what a straight 10 grade oil thickens to at a cold temperature.
A lot of motors when the temp in late fall/early spring/winter do not warm up all the way unless using a thermostat or if partially blocking the radiator. So the straight weight 30 oil is thicker than ideal all at all times.
Use of a magnetic oil plug can catch quite a bit of the metallic bits that might be floating around in the oil, but if you are especially concerned about this the motor can be converted to an oil filter system. The figure most mentioned here is changing oil every 500 miles. Oil is cheap compared to chances of premature motor wear.
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
The model A engine needs a certain amount of viscosity to cushion the bearings . Ford recommended 20w for winter and 40 w for summer . I use multi grade oil , but figure that a 10w whatever would be too thin to give the necessary viscosity for the older engines when warm . There is more to it than quick flow , in my opinion .
Werner
Well-known member
Good evening!
These motors are unsuitable for low viscosity oils. The large installation tolerances require a thick liquid oil to maintain a hydrodynamic lubricating film in the crankshaft bearings.
In addition, a low-viscosity oil leads to increased oil consumption and the combustion residues in the combustion chamber got too much.
These motors are unsuitable for low viscosity oils. The large installation tolerances require a thick liquid oil to maintain a hydrodynamic lubricating film in the crankshaft bearings.
In addition, a low-viscosity oil leads to increased oil consumption and the combustion residues in the combustion chamber got too much.
30 Closed Cab PU
Well-known member
My understanding of multi viscosity oil.
10W40 - has the viscosity of a straight 40 weight oil at higher/operating temperatures. Straight 40 weight oil when at low temps is much thicker viscosity, so does not flow/lubricate well.
Multi viscosity oil changes so it has the viscosity of a straight 10 weight oil at very cold temperatures, it is not the viscosity of a 10 weight oil at high temperatures which would be very thin.
So a 10w40 oil attempts to keep the same viscosity for both temperature extremes.
Mike V. Florida
Well-known member
You guys got that right! Use what every you want that will get you on the road.