30 PU Cab Installation

metalho

metalho

Well-known member
I've been pulling from as many sources as possible including threads, pics and books to make the cab installation go smoothly on the pickup. One thing that seems to vary is if the fenders should be bolted up along with the aprons. I really don't want to put the running boards on prior to installing the cab for obvious reasons. ANY helpful tips for installing the cab would be appreciated. It seems like I don't move until receiving a blessing these days from you seasoned builders, this site is a hell of a resource for us new guys.
 

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metalho said:
I've been pulling from as many sources as possible including threads, pics and books to make the cab installation go smoothly on the pickup. One thing that seems to vary is if the fenders should be bolted up along with the aprons. I really don't want to put the running boards on prior to installing the cab for obvious reasons. ANY helpful tips for installing the cab would be appreciated. It seems like I don't move until receiving a blessing these days from you seasoned builders, this site is a hell of a resource for us new guys.
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What I'm gathering is that order of assembly starts at the front of the pickup. Fenders going on first, then aprons and use the running boards only as guides for lining up the fenders and aprons. Before placing the cab running boards are removed to give you foot room to place the cab on the frame coming in from the rear of the truck?
 
I don't know if it's true for all 30-31's but on mine, holes were provided on the subframe to run screws through to hold some of the more difficult wood blocks in place. This made the install quite easy, well that and a handful of helpers. I sweated and worried alot about the asembly sequence (fenders,runningboards, splash aprons 1rst!) needlessly. As it turned out with the double AA everything can be slid in after the cab went on. (just install the front cab mount bolts later) Your miliage may vary. Nice job on the cab and running gear!
 
Farrell In Vancouver said:
I don't know if it's true for all 30-31's but on mine, holes were provided on the subframe to run screws through to hold some of the more difficult wood blocks in place. This made the install quite easy, well that and a handful of helpers. I sweated and worried alot about the asembly sequence (fenders,runningboards, splash aprons 1rst!) needlessly. As it turned out with the double AA everything can be slid in after the cab went on. (just install the front cab mount bolts later) Your miliage may vary. Nice job on the cab and running gear!
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LOL! I know, its silly. I feel like Im getting ready for my first date with a HOT trotter. Yes, Ive figured out my blocks, glued the rubber on and just about ready to screw em in place. Hey thanks for chiming in. These suggestions help confirm what Ive heard and get my butt moving forward.
 
If you are going th use frame welt, install it first. I use a large hole punch from Harbor freight to punch the holes in the welt first. I would install the splash aprons on the frame next with the small 1/4 screws. The last model A pick up cab that I installed I had three helpers, one strong person at each corner of the cab. We lifted the cab up over the steering column and sit it down in place.The cab bolts can mostly be installed from inside the cab with the floor boards out. I made the cab light as possible by leaving the doors, seats, and whatever I could off untill the cab was in place.
 
I just did mine on the weekend, 31 pick-up cab onto chassis. First time I have ever done anything like this, but it all went well. This is what I did
1. Splash aprons on
2. Bolted up front fenders
3. I ran 2 x pieces of 2x4 running from side to side on top of the chassis, with some rubber underneath to protect the splash aprons. I positioned these so the cab could sit on them, but would not interfere with the wooden block locations.
4. Lifted the cab onto the 2 x pieces of 2x4 (with 4 x people).
5. Moved the cab into position, and slid wooden blocks into position under the cab. I then installed the bolts through the cab, wooden blocks and chassis. I left the bolts as loose as possible so I could lift the cab a little to remove the pieces of 2 x 4
6. Removed the 2x4 and let out a sigh of relief.

All went very easy, and by sitting the cab on the pieces of 2x4, it was easy to move the cab into the correct position to align everything without trying to support the cab weight. Not sure if this is the easiest or best way to do this, but worked well for me.

Any questions, let me know.
 
If you have either or both reproduction front fenders and/or splash aprons, they bolt together easiest off the car. Then have a friend help you put the front fender and splash apron on at the same time. If you don't have anyone to help you, you can still put them on the chassis seperately, but you may have a hard time lining up the holes. But no matter what, you want to have your splash apron on the chassis and loosely bolted down before you put the cab on.
 
Thanks Guys. Ive pulled the steering column out and someone had cut the gear shift before so I just did the same. Im a welder so no big deal. Thought this might help so we don't have to lift so high.
 
Welp, todays the BIG day. Getting peeps together to help put the cab back on. Ill be pullin the running boards before that :)
 

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