30 A spring shackles
- Thread starter oldrelics
- Start date
I also found my answer at brattons...
One for each end of the front spring. Includes grease fittings, bushings, two bars, but not the original shape, and castle nuts. Fits 1928-31. Tighten castle nuts tight, then back off half turn to allow spring to pivot. Foreign, but good.
peters180a/170b
Well-known member
I would put a thin flat stainless steel washer then between the nut and the bar... but thats me.
Greg out west
Senior Member
Dear "Old Relics"
Good luck on those Chinese "Shackel's"..Way back on the old Fordbarn,one of the guy's posted a picture of one busted in half...
Also I think Dennis in Ober had one break when he went over a speed bump..This brothered me so much I took the shackel's out and put the old one back in I had from year's ago..
Better off finding some good used one's at the swap meet...Those little part's are holding up the car !!! I should of know better with the phrase, "Foreign, but good".
It was alot of work switching the shackel's out front & rear,,, but I feel alot better with the old one's back in place...
Greg out "West"
LeroyM
Senior Member
What about the shackles Snyder's sells? They claim to be made in the USA. Any known issues with theses?
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/867
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/867
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Vince, great line on the "Welcome to Repro Depot!"
Leroy, the ones that you referenced from Snyders are not authentic looking. They are USA made, --and are likely much stronger than the ones available from Brattons but some folks want to purchase something is more correct looking if they are doing a restoration. Compare the pictures of the two.
Lets discuss 'real world' about the Brattons spring hangers (shackles). I know they are foreign made, but there are good products NOW coming from 'off-shore' too so using the excuse that they are foreign made does not necessarily mean it is a bad thing does it? I have never had one of the sets from Bratton's give an issue ...yet. Will you or I? The problem I have is that when we turn out as many cars as we do, there are not enough good original ones to fill the needs.
Now with regard to the thought about bottoming the nut out and then backing it off, it really has more to do with the bushing itself, doesn't it? If the bushing is the correct length, THAT becomes the proper spacer. Has anyone actually compared the dimensions of the reproduction to prints at Bensen to even see what is different? I suspect that most folks really don't care except to the point that they are giving all the market will bear for what is out there and do not wish to pay more money for something that is more authentic.
One thing that I have often wondered is 'why' the one you have pictured actually broke where it did. Theoretically there should be a steel sleeve (bushing) that should be spreading the load over the entire length of the spring eye or perch. Otherwise the logical place they would have broken would be in the large area between the two grease zerks. I have always wondered if the broken unit could have also been damaged during installation from lack of using a spring spreader, --or not using it properly. While I do agree with Vince's assessment of that unit, it does appear that there have been quite a few of these repro units that are in service over the years that have not broken. Whether or not, they are a issue waiting to happen, or whether there were some issolated instances of issues will remain unkown to me, --but again, I am very limited in what my options are for replacements.
Leroy, the ones that you referenced from Snyders are not authentic looking. They are USA made, --and are likely much stronger than the ones available from Brattons but some folks want to purchase something is more correct looking if they are doing a restoration. Compare the pictures of the two.
Lets discuss 'real world' about the Brattons spring hangers (shackles). I know they are foreign made, but there are good products NOW coming from 'off-shore' too so using the excuse that they are foreign made does not necessarily mean it is a bad thing does it? I have never had one of the sets from Bratton's give an issue ...yet. Will you or I? The problem I have is that when we turn out as many cars as we do, there are not enough good original ones to fill the needs.
Now with regard to the thought about bottoming the nut out and then backing it off, it really has more to do with the bushing itself, doesn't it? If the bushing is the correct length, THAT becomes the proper spacer. Has anyone actually compared the dimensions of the reproduction to prints at Bensen to even see what is different? I suspect that most folks really don't care except to the point that they are giving all the market will bear for what is out there and do not wish to pay more money for something that is more authentic.
One thing that I have often wondered is 'why' the one you have pictured actually broke where it did. Theoretically there should be a steel sleeve (bushing) that should be spreading the load over the entire length of the spring eye or perch. Otherwise the logical place they would have broken would be in the large area between the two grease zerks. I have always wondered if the broken unit could have also been damaged during installation from lack of using a spring spreader, --or not using it properly. While I do agree with Vince's assessment of that unit, it does appear that there have been quite a few of these repro units that are in service over the years that have not broken. Whether or not, they are a issue waiting to happen, or whether there were some issolated instances of issues will remain unkown to me, --but again, I am very limited in what my options are for replacements.
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Dick Deegan
Well-known member
Yes, they should be loose - about a half to a turn loose.