Yes, the radiator movement is where all the fit-adjustments have to be made and that's why the radiator mounting points were designed the way they are. This assumes that your hood is in original condition dimensionally and no material has ever been cut or "trimmed" from its front or rear edges. It also assumes that your body and cowl are properly mounted to the frame and are "square."
The double nuts that attach the two radiator support rods to the top of the radiator can be adjusted together to lean the radiator forward or backward as required and the the two cotter-pinned nuts (on their spring-loaded bolts) that hold the radiator to the frame cross-member can be loosened so that the radiator can be pivoted or moved slightly forward or rearward as required. It's even possible to get the top of the radiator to pivot a little by slightly loosening and tightening the two pairs of support rod nuts in opposite directions. Be very careful not to overdo this so that you don't put too much twisting force on the radiator and the support rod bracket.
The radiator can be tilted left or right by differentially adding or removing rubber pads under the mounting ears at the cross-member.
It's a "fun" trial-and-error process until you get an even gap all around at the cowl and the radiator shell. I try for a gap of around 1/8th inch all over.
I just installed my new Brass Works "31 dimpled" radiator and it looks great. my old original was too tired, dinged, leaky and clogged to try to repair - and too many over-heating episodes this summer. The Brass Works radiator is a beautiful piece of craftsmanship and quality. And the staff at Brass Works is a pleasure to work with (spoke mostly with Lee). Well worth the investment!
Earle