30-31 Headlight connection problem

31Abone

31Abone

Well-known member
Seems the cheap after market connectors do not connect properly.. I have pushed about hard as possible and turning at same time and still not catching ..maybe hotwire them ? sc
 
I had the same problems. The little tabs on the conduit ends would not go down far enough to catch in the grooves on the light socket. What I did was get the black wire separator and cut just a few slivers off one end so there's less to compress in the socket. After that the conduit was easily connected to the light socket.
 
That makes sense because my terminals had bullet ends. Next wiring set I get ill know what to look for now.
 
I had the same problem and could not find enough information, so I asked and was replied to from the Restorers Q and A section, they did find the information in the Bratton's catalog. My problem was that the brass end terminals on the wires were not seating into the fiber socket that is there to hold them. What was needed with the repo plugs was to drill them, but only just a little, this will allow the little brass ends to set down into the plugs correctly. when this was done they fit correctly and I have had no problem since.
 
I bought a headlight socket wire A13075B, from Mac's, it came with a drawing and instructions that says it is prone to problems, cut off the connector and replace with spade connectors.
Mikes catalogs says the same thing, but use bullet connectors.
carry on nick c
 
Snyder's catalog sez: "Not one of Henry's better ideas".

I replaced mine with straight thru wiring (including a ground wire), bullet connectors in the radiator shell.
 
It also helps to use the more expensive and correct reproduction stainless steel wiring conduits that go from the radiator shell to the headlight bucket. They lock on to the sockets better and retain the fiber plug better than the less expensive reproductions that have been around for years.
 
I would hate to chop into a good wiring kit. I'm still glad I shortened the cheapy wire separator. I always hate having to modify original stuff to make repo crap work.
 
leatherback1929 said:
Forget the headlight sockets and solder the wires together and use headshrink tubing, no worries then!
Click to expand...

And while you're at it you solder a ground wire to the bulb bayonet socket - and run the wire back alongside the wiring harness in the conduits. Once inside the radiator shell the ground can be brought down unobtrusively to the frame and landed on the radiator to frame bolts (or nearby where a solid ground can be established directly to the frame)

Not to disparage. The ground wire is a good thought - but the BEST thought is to make replacement wiring/sockets/components such that it can be brought together as it was originally.

The only change I might make is to provide a hole through the center of the plastic plug and bayonet socket for the ground wire.

Ford's grounding through the headlight bar CAN'T EVER be that good.

Joe K
 
Pmsqrd said:
It also helps to use the more expensive and correct reproduction stainless steel wiring conduits that go from the radiator shell to the headlight bucket. They lock on to the sockets better and retain the fiber plug better than the less expensive reproductions that have been around for years.
Click to expand...

That has been my experience, too. The cheaper repros you mention from earlier years had only a small bump on the locking ring that looked like it was created with a pin punch. The better-quality ones now have a more distinct indentation though still not quite as good as the originals, which had a very deep, distinct indent.
 
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