ford-m
Senior Member
I cut the material at 3/8 thick and doubled it up.
Here is photo of my test staples. They are not coming out.
29 Roadster top irons make over
- Thread starter ford-m
- Start date
I cut the material at 3/8 thick and doubled it up.
Here is photo of my test staples. They are not coming out.
pooch
Well-known member
I did some test shots in some spare plastic i had before I installed it and the staples stuck to the plastic like $hit to a goose. Had trouble prying the suckers out. I'm using 3/8 stainless upholstery staples.
Here they are painted. I also sprayed mould release agent befor the epoxy primer and paint to get the best adhesion.
Good to see fresh ideas on solving problems with something that is not visible .
Am curious as to why you used a mould release agent before painting ?
The stuff I use is water soluble .
macdonge
Senior Member
ford-m... I'm in the midst of redoing my '30 Roadster's top and like the solution you came up with for tacking material in the top iron frames. I've seen your photos and had a question. You say you doubled up on the material thickness. Did you sandwich them first and install it all in one go or put them in individually, one after the other?
From the look/feel of what was in there, I thought my irons contained rotted wood. It was the consistency of wimpy cork. Turned out (as I began to remove it) that it was just cardboard that someone had stuffed in there the last time the top was replaced. One piece of the stuff indicated it had come from a box of Whiskey bottled in 1949!
Thanks in advance for your advice. By the way, I lived in Whitby for 2 years as a kid. Nice town. Retired to the Eastern Townships of Quebec now.
Cheers!
From the look/feel of what was in there, I thought my irons contained rotted wood. It was the consistency of wimpy cork. Turned out (as I began to remove it) that it was just cardboard that someone had stuffed in there the last time the top was replaced. One piece of the stuff indicated it had come from a box of Whiskey bottled in 1949!
Thanks in advance for your advice. By the way, I lived in Whitby for 2 years as a kid. Nice town. Retired to the Eastern Townships of Quebec now.
Cheers!
ford-m
Senior Member
Hello,
Thought I had answered the pm but it didn't go through.
Yes I doubled up on the pieces to add in the easiness of installation. Adding some heat ( propane torch) assisted greatly.
Cheers,
Michael
Randy in ca
Well-known member
What happened to all the pictures??
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
I think that's what happens when the picture is downloaded full size from some hosting site, then the picture is removed or the hosting site changes.
After Photobucket changed about 5 years ago I can't use it now, and I lost over a thousand pictures I had in there. Now I download thumbnail size from my computer, so you have to click to view it full size, but at least the picture will always be here.
BTW, this picture is of the Benton Harbor Fruit Market, where I used to ride with a distant relative in his 1936 Ford truck to sell fruit.
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Barry B./ Ma.
Well-known member
If the filler material is fairly intact you can use some Kwik Poly available from LeBaron Bonney, worked well on my 29 roadster and holds nails well. Ranchers use it for reshoeing horses hoofs. I realize it's a little late in your case as you dug out all the material and you needed to replace it with something else.
ford-m
Senior Member
Hi Tom,
Yes photo bucket didn't warn me that when I organized the photos they would cause issues here.
Here is a link to all the photos.
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/Ford-m/1929%20Roadster/story
Mike Peters
Well-known member
This may be late in this thread, but I just finished repairing the top bows for a Phaeton project. I had a plastic mud flap salvaged from a 1978 Uhaul truck I junked out a year ago. Stiff black plastic 1/4" thick. It held a finishing nail well, so I did what Michael in Whitby did. Two of my bows had no wood at all, so I cut 3 strips for each bow on my table saw, with the top strip tapered on the same table saw. Then sprayed on some soapy water and drove them in with a hammer. You can also drive them in one at a time. Works both ways. The photos show the steps involved. Thanks Michael!! I plan to use Quik Poly or something similar to repair the old wood in the remaining bows.
Moral of the story: It's hard to know what may become useful in the future, so one has to be careful what he or she throws away. In this case it was plastic mud flaps.
Moral of the story: It's hard to know what may become useful in the future, so one has to be careful what he or she throws away. In this case it was plastic mud flaps.
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Jim M
Senior Member
For some reason I can't see the pics. Anyone is having a problem and/or know how to fix it? I just have a square box with a cat in it and message picture not found?????
As a side note I bought a small plastic cutting board from Walmart and it worked great! Make sure you bevel the top edges and taper the piece a little. After a couple of trial and errors they came out great!
As a side note I bought a small plastic cutting board from Walmart and it worked great! Make sure you bevel the top edges and taper the piece a little. After a couple of trial and errors they came out great!
I think the missing pictures is because Photobucket changed their policies and unless you pay them ransom, they delete your pictures. Nice business model!!! Luckily I stopped using them a couple years ago, but I am sure some of my older posts look the same (no pictures) like above.
Rusty Nelson
Rusty Nelson
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Rockabilly Rodder
New member
Don't know if this thread is still active but can anyone provide the dimensions of each of
the irons & Stanchens (all six pieces for one side) on an original top? I want to fabricate a set for my 29. I did find on another thread where some one posted the dimensional distance from center to center of the connecting rivets but the geometry dose not seem to work out when folding my models.
the irons & Stanchens (all six pieces for one side) on an original top? I want to fabricate a set for my 29. I did find on another thread where some one posted the dimensional distance from center to center of the connecting rivets but the geometry dose not seem to work out when folding my models.