'29 head gasket replacement

[bagpiper]

I want to replace the head gasket on my '29 Tudor. I'm not sure about the distributor removal and replacement, timing, etc. I have a new gasket from Mike's. Help please.

 

[J Franklin]

Has the old head-gasket failed? (seeps to the outside don't count). If so loosen the distributer set screw on the head, remove the distributor and loosen the head nuts and remove the head. the timing will not be disturbed at all.

 

[bagpiper]

The head gasket hasn't failed, but the oil seeping down on the block is unsightly. Should I check the torque on the head bolts and retorque if necessary and see if it stops the seeping? Thanks for the reply.

 

[Jim Parker Toronto]

Re-torquing would be my first plan of attack. Sometimes they need occasional TLC, not major work! Although changing a headgasket is not a major job even by yourself! Timing would not be affected unless you undo the cam with the screw in the top of the distributor!

 

[wrndln]

I have never done this, but plan to when I am finishing the assembly of my engine. I have read in a couple of places that if you take some white spray paint (can be a cheap type) and spray 2 or 3 coats on the outside edges of the copper sandwich (FelPro type) gasket just before installing it, it will prevent the unsightly water/antifreeze stains down the side of the engine. If a little paint gets on the top or bottom of the copper, it doesn't matter. Another thing I have read about several times is, apply some gasket sealer on the water jacket holes in the head gasket. This helps prevent water/antifreeze from seeping into the inner part of the gasket and out the outer edge of the gasket and down the side of the engine.
Rusty Nelson

 

[RonC]

I bottle of radiator sealer in your radiator will eliminate most of the seaping if not all of it. I like the sealer with the brown molasses and rabbit pellets in it. BARS leak makes it. It hardens when air hits it as it leaks out.

 

[Dave in MN]

Tip on re-torquing if you are not replacing the head gasket

When re-torquing a head without removing it for gasket replacement, following the suggested stud tightening sequence, back off each nut 1/8 to 1/4 turn and immediately bring it back up to the desired torque before moving to the next nut.
Reason: It takes quite a bit of additional torque to break the nut loose if you don't back it off a bit prior to bring it up to correct torque. Often times you will actually tighten it to much if you start from its original position without backing it off. I prefer to re-torque the engine cold. Why...because I run a 5.9 Brumfield head and Larry says it's the correct way to do it. Larry knows way more about heads than I ever will know.....

Good Day!
Dave in MN