29 front radius attachment

joesplas

Junior Member
Is there a standard value the bolts should stick through the bell housing for the front radius rod attachment point. I replaced the ball on the radius rod and new seats and bolts. The book said to fit the ball in the socket and install sleeves and springs. Tighten nuts until they just touch sleeves and install cotter pins. I did that and it is as if the bolts are to long because once the nuts are touching the sleeves they are above the cotter pin holes. I read on here where it is possible for the holes in the bell housing to wear and allow the bolts to sit to low. I disassembled it and want to shim the bolts back to proper depth but could not find a value the threaded portion of the bolts stick through the bell housing. The first time I assembled it I did notice that once the bolts were in place and the through rod was installed to hold the bolts from turning the through rod did not touch the grooves in the bolts. I guess that should of been my first clue as the there was a issue. Also one other question. It looks as if my engine will need to be bored and when I measured the bore it measures .070 over and the pistons do have a 70 stamped on them. Was there a time that .070 was available? I am going to either need to go .100 over or sleeve back to standard. Anyone have a opinion on going .100 over? I know pistons are available but just because they are available does not mean it is a good idea. Sorry so long and thank you for your time. Joe
 
.100" over pistons is no problem unless the cooling chamber has severe rust to the point the cylinder walls are too thin. If you find that to be the case, then go ahead and sleeve it back to normal. Hopefully the guy doing the sleeve will know enough to leave a lip at the bottom to lock the sleeve from going down.

I would slip the cross pin in place then lift the wishbone ball bolts up and down. Meaure this amount of freeplay and make shims about .010" less. Be sure the shims are no larger diameter than the bolt heads.
 
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