29 Ford Water Pump and speedometer gear question

[nelliebelle]

I have two restoration books, one says that you have to remove the radiator and the other book says if you have two bladed fan it can be removed without taking the radiator out which is right? What kind of grease do you put in the speedometer gear housing, is there an adjustment Snyder says to use gaskets?

 

[Hoogah]

If you have a four blade fan, then you need to remove the radiator in order to remove the water pump so that the blades don't hit the radiator. If you have a two blade fan, loosening the radiator and tilting it forward will apparently produce sufficient clearance (although I haven't had direct experience of this).

You can also replace the water pump studs with bolts that look like studs. Once you've done that you can remove the water pump without having to slide it forward at all.

 

[Joe K]

You're talking just the pump, right?

I have done it both ways on my 29 truck. It helps if the pump has been recently removed/replaced and before the gaskets have a chance to "attach" to the flange surfaces.

MUCH easier to remove the hood rods and "tilt" out the radiator.

The "simulated head" bolts/studs for the water pump are an attempt to make this exercise easier. I don't have those.

Joe K

 

[Mark W.]

I was able to remove the fan blade in mine by removing the rods and top hose, then pulling the radiator forward to the headlight bar - but I did place a piece of thin plywood over the radiator to keep from driving the fan into it by mistake...

 

[johnbuckley]

This may help on the w/pump question.

If you have a 4 blade fan and cannot remove the blades from the boss you will need to remove the radiator!

If you have a 2 blade fan usually you can just tilt the radiator to get sufficient clearance for removal and refit.- you generally only need and extra inch or so of clearance …and If you can remove the 4 studs from the block you are in luck and may not even need to tilt it.

Removal method with a two blade fan -

1) Undo waterpump mounting nuts,- if possible remove studs as well

Place a bit of cardboard to protect the radiator fins.

If you have removed the studs you will probably be able to gently wiggle the pump and fan out complete and the job is done.

2) If you can’t yet get the pump out then…….

Loosen the two bulkhead-to-radiator rods and lift them up at the radiator end. Remove entire hood.
.
Drain radiator and remove one end of the top hose. Carefully see if you can tilt the rad closer to head light bar (if you have a stone guard on the rad that too will need to be removed.) You should now be able to wiggle the waterpump c/w fan out .

3) If you still don’t have sufficient clearance you will need to remove the radiator entirely.

When the pump is off check the fan fits OK, - fettle the snout of the replacement w/pump if necessary. And remember to fit the fan to the w/pump and then fit both to the block.

When you get to refit the pump, make life easier in the future and use the special bolts to fit it to the block. These bolts are machined to look like the original studs and nuts and makes future removal a doddle- best thing since baked beans.


After re-assembly and after you have driven a few miles re-check the fan nut is tight- you may be able to turn it a tighter a face or two- (and remember to re-insert the split pin!)