28 sedan carb help?

Mitch//pa said:
dont use the jets from the suppliers they are not calibrated properly
call renners and buy a set of calibrated jets, viton valve and float tool..
you may have to ask for the valve on the phone not sure if they show it on there site..
cancel your mikes order
here is what you want
Click to expand...

I second this, i used multiple rebuild kits from the major suppliers and the carb never worked well. I sprung for a set of renners flow tested jets and bingo, perfect operation.

Those jets from the major suppliers are all over the map.
 
another bonus is renner's jets come with a chart showing the actual flow test on the the jets you recieve and the ford spec.
 
Rebuilding a 1928 Zenith carburetor with my best friend. This car will produce the best memories this summer.​
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Wow!

I have to say the rebuild kit from Renner's with the calibrated jets has made a huge difference. My car runs like a champ and seems much more happy than it did before.

I never knew how bad it ran with the old carb set up until now. The car is rather new to me and I thought that's just how Model A's ran......

60 MPH up the lakeshore with my son after work today.
cool.gif


I highly recommend Renner's calibrated jets for anyone looking for a happier banger.

Thank you all!
 
Boston Bruce said:
What "filter"?

Get rid of all of the fuel and air filters and try it.
Click to expand...

You are likely to run rich with an air filter. You can get a modified Zenith to use an air filter if you like. Get rid of any fuel filter other than the screen inside the gas tank that fits in the fuel cutoff valve line. It will keep rust out of your carb. BTW there is also a screen in a Zenith carb on the inlet. You might want to check or replace it as well.

http://mrtexascitrus.weebly.com/modelacarb.html

I horded up a lot of Tillys and Zeniths before I retired as a retirement project. I started on the Tillys and never got to the Zeniths. I rebuilt around 40 Tillys. A Tilly is a much simpler carb to overhaul. When we moved 110 miles last August to near Sugarland,TX I sold the approximate 50 Zeniths I had saved up! I still have 25 or 30 Tillys.

https://sites.google.com/site/mrtexascitrus/home/tilly-carburetors

A Zenith is definitely a good carb if you get flow tested jets. I have posted an explanation as to how a Zenith works on my website:

https://sites.google.com/site/mrtexascitrus/home/modelacarb

I never did find a simple enough explanation about how a Zenith works so I made my own. I have all the available booklets on both Zenith and Tilly carbs. No flow testing required for a Tilly.
 
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Baileigh Inc said:
Hello gang!

After putting 250 miles on the 28 over the past couple of days I am in complete love with the car. Drove it home last night and parked it in the garage. This morning it started then slowly died and would not fire back up.

I am getting gas to the carb, the filter is brand new, so I removed the bottom of the carb and blew everything out. No dirt, totally clean. I had an old timer with me that knew what he was doing sorta so he did most of it.

The bowl was dry as a bone so he monkeyed around with the float and walla!!...it started pissing gas all over. I t was beautiful! :cool:

Put everything back together and she fired right up......for about 30 seconds until all the gas in the bowl was used up.

Not sure where to start as I am not a carb guy.

Anyone want to lend a hand?
Click to expand...

As a new Model A owner, I found this the very helpful in terms of the Carburetor:

http://modelabasics.com/carb basics 2.htm

This is a thing of beauty as well for Ignitions:

http://modelabasics.com/Ignition.htm

Your mileage many vary...

-Mike
Cleveland, Ohio
 
Man.....I cannot grasp this carb. After putting in the Renner's calibrated jets the car ran incredibly better for several days....until it got a little colder outside.

Not sure if the cold weather has anything to do with it but spitting and sputtering, popping and snapping.......won't stay running at stop lights. I took off the air cleaner and it seems to breath a littler better but she still has something going on. It doesn't even rev up the same as it did.

Are the calibrated jets only for warm weather or am I chasing a rabbit with this cold weather?
 
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It sounds like you need to open up the GAV a bit until it warms up. Sputtering and popping when cold usually indicates running lean. I open the GAV about one turn counter clockwise when cold. when it starts to lope, close the GAV to about 1/4 turn off the seat or where ever it runs best. Mine will hesitate and not want to take the gas unless I richen the GAV until it warms a bit. Ignition is probably weak as well. Check the points. When points gap begins to close up it retards the timing and throttle response becoms slow and labored. The locking screw on the points block may not have been tightened properly, the last time the points were adjusted. This has happened to many of us at one time or another. points gap should be anywhere from .018 to .022 , I usually go for the wider gap. Wider points gap gives more time before the gap has to be adjusted again, it also slightly advances the timing for more crisp throttle response. If the engine stalls when the brakes are applied after warm up, the float level is probably a bit low. Running a stand up filter in the cut off valve under the gas tank is usually a must. Fuel flow restriction will also cause backfiring and shut off. Several things can cause the same symptoms
 
Purdy Swoft said:
It sounds like you need to open up the GAV a bit until it warms up. Sputtering and popping when cold usually indicates running lean. I open the GAV about one turn counter clockwise when cold. when it starts to lope, close the GAV to about 1/4 turn off the seat or where ever it runs best. Mine will hesitate and not want to take the gas unless I richen the GAV until it warms a bit. Ignition is probably weak as well. Check the points. When points gap begins to close up it retards the timing and throttle response becoms slow and labored. The locking screw on the points block may not have been tightened properly, the last time the points were adjusted. This has happened to many of us at one time or another. points gap should be anywhere from .018 to .022 , I usually go for the wider gap. Wider points gap gives more time before the gap has to be adjusted again, it also slightly advances the timing for more crisp throttle response. If the engine stalls when the brakes are applied after warm up, the float level is probably a bit low. Running a stand up filter in the cut off valve under the gas tank is usually a must. Fuel flow restriction will also cause backfiring and shut off. Several things can cause the same symptoms
Click to expand...

Thanks Purdy, but my car has electronic ignition that was installed when it was rebuilt a couple years ago.
 
Well that will probably rule out ignition. I only added the thought because many times carburetor problems turn out to be ignition or partly ignition. Good luck.
 
Minerva was fartin' out erratically, once. With carb bowl off, NO flow from float valve. Turned off gas, removed float, laid down a white rag, GENTLY removed the float valve. A little BLACK beetle was sittin' on top of it!! Don't know how he got in through the stainless mesh carb filter???---Bill W.
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
Minerva was fartin' out erratically, once. With carb bowl off, NO flow from float valve. Turned off gas, removed float, laid down a white rag, GENTLY removed the float valve. A little BLACK beetle was sittin' on top of it!! Don't know how he got in through the stainless mesh carb filter???---Bill W.
Click to expand...

Holy cow!
 
Purdy Swoft said:
It sounds like you need to open up the GAV a bit until it warms up. Sputtering and popping when cold usually indicates running lean. I open the GAV about one turn counter clockwise when cold. when it starts to lope, close the GAV to about 1/4 turn off the seat or where ever it runs best. Mine will hesitate and not want to take the gas unless I richen the GAV until it warms a bit. Ignition is probably weak as well. Check the points. When points gap begins to close up it retards the timing and throttle response becoms slow and labored. The locking screw on the points block may not have been tightened properly, the last time the points were adjusted. This has happened to many of us at one time or another. points gap should be anywhere from .018 to .022 , I usually go for the wider gap. Wider points gap gives more time before the gap has to be adjusted again, it also slightly advances the timing for more crisp throttle response. If the engine stalls when the brakes are applied after warm up, the float level is probably a bit low. Running a stand up filter in the cut off valve under the gas tank is usually a must. Fuel flow restriction will also cause backfiring and shut off. Several things can cause the same symptoms
Click to expand...


Your quote:

It sounds like you need to open up the GAV a bit until it warms up. Sputtering and popping when cold usually indicates running lean. I open the GAV about one turn counter clockwise when cold. when it starts to lope, close the GAV to about 1/4 turn off the seat or where ever it runs best. Mine will hesitate and not want to take the gas unless I richen the GAV until it warms a bit.


:cool: Thanks Purdy, this has helped out quite a bit. Yesterday I put a few miles on it and this was the problem. I never had to mess with the GAV before, I just always left it almost closed. After opening it up a full turn, my car smiled.

This is all a learning process for me and I thank all of you for your help.
 
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