28/29 tudor tail lamp wiring help

Smooth_One

Smooth_One

Senior Member
Hey all,

I am trying to figure out where the Tail Lamp wiring is supposed to run under the Drivers side body along the frame in my 28 Tudor and I am having some troubles with it.
The wiring was already removed when i got the car and i can't really find any great diagram or pictures of where it runs from the factory which obviously I'm trying to run it that way.
If anyone has any pictures or can explain in detail that would be a great help as you guys already have been with a few issues I've had.
I have pulled out quite a bit of stuffing from the family of Michigan mice which kept warm in my father in laws shop I'm sure.
I've wrapped the end in tight electrical tape so it would be rigid so i can push through but I'm kind of stuck right under the Drivers door sill plate.

Thanks in advance!
 
From everything I've seen including my car, the wiring is run along the inside of the frame rail and is clipped every foot or so with A-14565.
 
ryanheacox said:
From everything I've seen including my car, the wiring is run along the inside of the frame rail and is clipped every foot or so with A-14565.
Click to expand...


Thanks, there looks to be a few body mounts in the direct path of where it should go. I'm just wondering if i should go on the inside or outside of those?
 
You begin by sending the taillight wires through the square hole at the lower drivers side firewall correct? Next to the wood block body mount?
 
There shouldn't be any body blocks were the wire runs.


Bob
 

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There was a piece of wire still in the car when I got it and now I see that what it was in the total wrong spot to begin with. Thank you for the pictures.
 
all the wiring runs on the bottom of the frame rail. Going through the cross-members, there is a small hole to thread the wire through. It is a straight shot.
 
From Restoration Guidelines 2011ed pp 2-16



Thus sayeth the JCS...



...The rear lamp harness was braided to both the stop light switch and the rear lamp through 1928 and measured about 128" with the section rearward of the brake light switch leads measuring about 85 1/2". With the introduction of the teacup rear lamp in early 1929, the rear harness was shortened to 103 1/2" and the rear section 61" long, The harness ended just beyond the rear cross member where it was plugged to a 22" lamp extension sheathed wires. This rear lamp harness had a blue tracer braided in the sheath for identification.

...From the light switch,

...The rear lamp wiring was routed under the rear motor mount to the bottom inside of the left rail and fastened with a clip. It was then routed through the center cross member to the cross member mounted (brake) switch and along the bottom inside of rail, fastened with three clips.The harness was routed to the frame upper rear corner bracket where it was fastened with a clip. Passenger vehicles with the drum type rear lamp had two clips holding the wires to the lamp support. Later models had the lamp extension wires attached to the rear fender bracket or fender-skirt with a special clip (illustrations of this are in the service bulletins). a clip was used to support the wiring to the bottom of wood framed bodies just rearward of the rear cross member. The clip was attached to the left floor sill with a #10 black enamel round head wood screw. Applicable bodies include Fordors, Town Sedans, (Deluxe Phaetons,) Panel Deliveries, and 78B pickups. All clips were dip painted black enamel.
 
swo4rd said:
From Restoration Guidelines 2011ed pp 2-16








Thus sayeth the JCS...



...The rear lamp harness was braided to both the stop light switch and the rear lamp through 1928 and measured about 128" with the section rearward of the brake light switch leads measuring about 85 1/2". With the introduction of the teacup rear lamp in early 1929, the rear harness was shortened to 103 1/2" and the rear section 61" long, The harness ended just beyond the rear cross member where it was plugged to a 22" lamp extension sheathed wires. This rear lamp harness had a blue tracer braided in the sheath for identification.

...From the light switch,

...The rear lamp wiring was routed under the rear motor mount to the bottom inside of the left rail and fastened with a clip. It was then routed through the center cross member to the cross member mounted (brake) switch and along the bottom inside of rail, fastened with three clips.The harness was routed to the frame upper rear corner bracket where it was fastened with a clip. Passenger vehicles with the drum type rear lamp had two clips holding the wires to the lamp support. Later models had the lamp extension wires attached to the rear fender bracket or fender-skirt with a special clip (illustrations of this are in the service bulletins). a clip was used to support the wiring to the bottom of wood framed bodies just rearward of the rear cross member. The clip was attached to the left floor sill with a #10 black enamel round head wood screw. Applicable bodies include Fordors, Town Sedans, (Deluxe Phaetons,) Panel Deliveries, and 78B pickups. All clips were dip painted black enamel.
Click to expand...


Thanks for posting this! Very helpful.
 
Paul Bjarnason said:
BTW - What are the "Restoration Guidelines" you quote from? Thanks.
Click to expand...

The "Restoration Guidelines & Judging Standards" is a 3-ring binder full of documentation on what the Model A looked like when it left the factory. It helps you figure out how to restore your vehicle as close to authentic as you wish to do.

There is a misconception that this book is only for people who are trying to restore their vehicle to a very high level of "fine point judging" standard. This is not the whole story.

The book is very valuable for every person working on a Model A or AA, to help guide them on "how it was originally" when it was made. What color to paint things, when a part (like a generator) changed through the years, which should be on my vehicle, things like that.

It is very satisfying, when you are finished working on some aspect of your vehicle, to know that what you have done is as authentic as you could make it, limited by your time, talent and money. When people ask you "did Ford really do it like that?", you can confidently reply "yes, that's the way it was done". But you can also deviate from the original, authentic details if you want to.

For example, you may CHOOSE to put the later 2-tooth steering column in your early-29 vehicle, because it is easier to adjust, but you are doing it from a position of knowledge, not just random parts pulling. Similarly, it is not more effort, really, to put the correct tail light on the car, use the correct lens, and route the wires the way they were originally, compared to doing it wrong. It is actually very satisfying.

The book is also very interesting to read. It is the product of thousands of hours of research into the original car. You don't have to follow every little detail to appreciate the work that went into building these cars when new.

Buy it here:
https://www.mafca.com/cart/index.php?productID=115

I hope this helps.
 
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