28-29 Phaeton sub rails
- Thread starter 28hiboy
- Start date
kelley's restoration
Well-known member
use the 2 door sub rails
they worked great for me
tk
they worked great for me
tk
Unless your subrails are extremely bad, I would try to repair the originals. If you use repros, I don't think there are any holes for the body crossmembers, B pillar parts and other holes needed to properly align everything. Phaetons are hard enough to get properly aligned so the four doors fit OK. I have a 29 phaeton that had the subrails and body crossmembers in real bad condtion. I welded them up and dressed them down. It took me a long time to do it, but the holes are still there to make sure the doors, quarterpanels, etc have a decent chance to be placed correctly. Just my opinion.
Rusty Nelson
Rusty Nelson
I just have the body panels. No sub rails. I wish that they were in bad shape, cause I would be doing just what you (wrndln) advised. I like your opinion, it is just not an option in this case. I also agree about the alignment issues. My roadster was a bear and still is in need of fine adjusting. There is an art to doing this and I am not an artist.
pooch
Well-known member
I am working on my second subframe at the moment.
I have found the best way (for me) and best datum point is to work back from the rear bonnet (hood) hold down chassis bracket.
It is exactly 4 inches from centre of bracket to rear edge of bonnet.
I am allowing 1/4 inch gap to raised edge of cowl swage /bonnet gap and working back from there and just getting door gaps correct.
This is putting the cowl swage line directly above the front edge of the bolt (not the nut) on the rear engine mount bolt.
The back of the body will finish up where it wants to be with all door gaps correct.
Probably totally wrong method as I am new to this but its working for me.
I have found the best way (for me) and best datum point is to work back from the rear bonnet (hood) hold down chassis bracket.
It is exactly 4 inches from centre of bracket to rear edge of bonnet.
I am allowing 1/4 inch gap to raised edge of cowl swage /bonnet gap and working back from there and just getting door gaps correct.
This is putting the cowl swage line directly above the front edge of the bolt (not the nut) on the rear engine mount bolt.
The back of the body will finish up where it wants to be with all door gaps correct.
Probably totally wrong method as I am new to this but its working for me.
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Yes, you can use Tudor rails however the 35-A sub-rails are not the same as Tudor. They are mainly different in two areas, with the most significant in the 'B' pillar post area.