26 Model "T" GETTING it to RUN

Doot

Doot

Member
Getting ready to pull the '26 Model "T" Roadster in the garage. My dad says it needs new bands and new starter. The last time he restored it was 50 years ago with his dad. They only put about 400 miles on it....then it sat since 1991 'till now.
Do you think I really need to replace the bands? Or, just adjust them if possible? I am delving into the "T" manuals like I did with the "A" to gain some more knowledge about it. I was too young back in the day when he was interested in the cars. This past Father's day I got the "A" running for him now that I'm back home. Needless to say, he was beside himself with overwhelming emotions! He now brought up the fact that if I'm so into these cars, that I should do the "T" while I'm at it!!!!! I am ready and willing! I thought I would ask you folks first about the "T" before I make unnecessary purchases.
400 miles on the bands....Still good?
the last time it ran we had to pull the car around the block to start it! New starter definitely!!!!?????

Thank you!
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RE: belts... The T only has a single flat belt and unless theres a water pump on it only turns the fan with VERY little effort. You should almost be able to give the fan a spin with the belt that loose. DONT CUT YOUR FINGER THOUGH! Theres a lot of places to grease and oil, some are kind of hidden, and THEY ALL NEED IT!
After sleeping for 15 years, Id pull the plugs and give each hole a squirt of oil. Roll it over a few times and replace the plugs. Check the level on the petcocks below, and fill with water.
Electric starter may be as simple as a connection issue. If you really feel the starter needs to come out, PULL THE COVER AND BENDIX DRIVE OFF FIRST before attempting removal. IRREVERSABLE damage will occur to the MAG coils if you don't. That will require pulling the motor to repair.
Is there a distributor on it or 4 coils? That will determine the next direction to go in. Need a better description with TONS of pics to guide you proppa' !!! Later we can discuss BRAKE LOSS due to differential parts failure, but for now, get it going and run around the block if theres no kids in the street and traffic is really light. Its a blast! ws
 
Yeah.... I always read peoples' nomenclature for what its supposed to be... to me, belts are belts. This guy with little T experience may in fact have used the wrong term and learned that from Dad. Hopefully he'll respond and let us know... And if in fact the bands are 50 years old, probably cotton that's rotten and my main concern is babbitt washers in the differential. As a kid, those were never an issue, but 50 years later they have begun to disintegrate at an alarming rate. ws
 
yachtsmanbill said:
Yeah.... I always read peoples' nomenclature for what its supposed to be... to me, belts are belts. This guy with little T experience may in fact have used the wrong term and learned that from Dad. Hopefully he'll respond and let us know... And if in fact the bands are 50 years old, probably cotton that's rotten and my main concern is babbitt washers in the differential. As a kid, those were never an issue, but 50 years later they have begun to disintegrate at an alarming rate. ws
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Thanks for mentioning the Babbitt thrust washer... I was reading about that and yes I will be replacing it.
 
AH HA!!! The worst thing you never wanna sound like is someone who doesn't know what they are talking about LOL! It bugs me when guys call a distributor a "dizzy" and a carb a "carby". It reminds of when my kid was about 10 and he wanted to sound "cool" and called a 'vette a "cory"; now he's a test engineer for International Trucks and pretty successful; anyway...
Have you looked at the bands yet? You can kind of judge whats left by the amount of adjustment left... 2 internal and one external. If they are 50 years old, they are cotton (95% sure) and will probably fall apart with some serious running and plug up the internal oil pipe to the front of the motor. Not uncommon and a pain to clear out.
Is there a coil box with 4 wood coils on top of the engine? (Notice: not buzz boxes or wood box batteries haha!) Coils can be touchy but manageable little bastards, but they can be dealt with when the time comes. They start on battery voltage, then the key is switched over to MAG and run of the 30 or so volts >A.C.< provided by the flywheel mounted magneto. In days of old, instead of repairing a failed magneto, it was much easier to install an aftermarket distributor. Those run better and easier to work on instead of the coils running on just 6 volts, but coils and a MAG are really part of what makes a model T run like a Model T. A substantial difference!
Lastly is the carb. 95% of the Ts ran an updraft Holley or Ford or Kingston and are as simple as a lawn mower. If theres a Holley HotPlate unit on it (looks way different) theres a chance that the internal tin plate has rusted through from sitting and at the very least will provide with hard starting and lousy performance or at worst no starting at all.
Im gonna bore the regulars here with some pics that they've all seen before, but its easier to explain with pics. Theres an updraft Kingston carb, a Holley Hot plate unit, and a box with coils and a stock timer where a distributor would also mount. Don't hesitate to ask questions. I saw your pics and know you have a feel for old stuff, especially that 1911 Maxwell. Post lotsa pics! ws

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yachtsmanbill said:
AH HA!!! The worst thing you never wanna sound like is someone who doesn't know what they are talking about LOL! It bugs me when guys call a distributor a "dizzy" and a carb a "carby". It reminds of when my kid was about 10 and he wanted to sound "cool" and called a 'vette a "cory"; now he's a test engineer for International Trucks and pretty successful; anyway...
Have you looked at the bands yet? You can kind of judge whats left by the amount of adjustment left... 2 internal and one external. If they are 50 years old, they are cotton (95% sure) and will probably fall apart with some serious running and plug up the internal oil pipe to the front of the motor. Not uncommon and a pain to clear out.
Is there a coil box with 4 wood coils on top of the engine? (Notice: not buzz boxes or wood box batteries haha!) Coils can be touchy but manageable little bastards, but they can be dealt with when the time comes. They start on battery voltage, then the key is switched over to MAG and run of the 30 or so volts >A.C.< provided by the flywheel mounted magneto. In days of old, instead of repairing a failed magneto, it was much easier to install an aftermarket distributor. Those run better and easier to work on instead of the coils running on just 6 volts, but coils and a MAG are really part of what makes a model T run like a Model T. A substantial difference!
Lastly is the carb. 95% of the Ts ran an updraft Holley or Ford or Kingston and are as simple as a lawn mower. If theres a Holley HotPlate unit on it (looks way different) theres a chance that the internal tin plate has rusted through from sitting and at the very least will provide with hard starting and lousy performance or at worst no starting at all.
Im gonna bore the regulars here with some pics that they've all seen before, but its easier to explain with pics. Theres an updraft Kingston carb, a Holley Hot plate unit, and a box with coils and a stock timer where a distributor would also mount. Don't hesitate to ask questions. I saw your pics and know you have a feel for old stuff, especially that 1911 Maxwell. Post lotsa pics! ws







Yeah I will post a lot more pics once I move the "T" from one garage to the other.
Right now I'm not sure what carb is on it, but from what my dad says, it's all original.
Thank you for setting me straight on making sure I know what the hell I'm talking about before I post a question!!! LOL!
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You have a LOT to start with there! Just from the pics I am gonna guess early 1926 (aug - Dec 1925 actually) with the earlier fan belt tensioner bracket. Now theres two more things to look at... pull the floorboards and see if theres 2 bolts through the top of the hogshead (trans cover with the pedals) into the back of the block. A lot of blocks got swapped out with earlier non bolt style blocks. Then, you can confirm two other issues. The numbers on the motor are on a pad just above the water inlet on the side of the block, just below the coil box. If those are there thatll tell you when the motor was built, and then possibly, theres matching numbers on top of the frame rail on the passenger side under about where their feet would be. Its usually a pretty faint stamping there. Those started getting stamped about mid way thru 1926 until the end in 1927. Those should be in the 12-14 million range. Nice pics BTW!! ws
 
yachtsmanbill said:
You have a LOT to start with there! Just from the pics I am gonna guess early 1926 (aug - Dec 1925 actually) with the earlier fan belt tensioner bracket. Now theres two more things to look at... pull the floorboards and see if theres 2 bolts through the top of the hogshead (trans cover with the pedals) into the back of the block. A lot of blocks got swapped out with earlier non bolt style blocks. Then, you can confirm two other issues. The numbers on the motor are on a pad just above the water inlet on the side of the block, just below the coil box. If those are there thatll tell you when the motor was built, and then possibly, theres matching numbers on top of the frame rail on the passenger side under about where their feet would be. Its usually a pretty faint stamping there. Those started getting stamped about mid way thru 1926 until the end in 1927. Those should be in the 12-14 million range. Nice pics BTW!! ws
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Thanks.....yeah when my Dad and his dad restored it the first time 50 years ago, he said he already made sure everything matches!(from what he told me!).
I will do a check for myself, though!
Thank you for the info. Do you mind if I add you to my friend's list?
 
Status update: The car is going back together smoothly! Waiting for the starter to come back from being rebuilt. Other than that, it's about done.
 

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yachtsmanbill said:
That's a work of art! Cut a piece of plywood for a starter block off and get on that twister! ws
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Hahaha! Yeah right! The whole reason for this latest restoration was to rebuild the starter just so we don't have to crank the B*tch anymore! Though I like your enthusiasm!

Before and after pictures are on my profile albums.
 
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