'26 Ford T

Doot

Member
The car runs, but not the way it is supposed to!

I contemplate the method I used to time the ignition and on what top dead center cylinder? (From the front of the car, which is the number one cylinder? I assume it is the forward most cylinder? Am I wrong?)

I ordered and received a new commutator 2 years ago. I ran the car. It runs, but not great. I just got a new commutator rod (thinking I may have bent the old one wrong?).

The car is at the funeral home. Tomorrow, I am going to bring the car to the house garage and start working on it again......

I deeply appreciate any advice!!!

Thank you.
 
No 1 is front same as all straight inline engines. Should be setting timing just after TDC not at, with the spark lever all the way up. Make sure you are on the compression stroke, easy, pull the spark plugs, put your thumb over the hole and crank till you feel compression. Look in the hole and watch the piston come up as you crank. There is a pause as it goes over top, just when it starts to go back down that will be close.
 
Thank you "redmodelt" That advice does help me a lot. I will let you know how I made out within the next day or two.
Thanks again.
 
Okay, so I did all of that above mentioned stuff. My question now is: The commutator roller inside the cap. At what position should that be while on Top dead Center?
Thank you.
 
LOL do what I do, if it don't run turn it 180. Some cam shafts have a thru hole for the pin some only on one side. :) Google MTFCA; timing.
My car engine is out for work so I can't even go out and look and can't remember off hand if the roller is up or down.
 
Okay, thank you. I googled it and confirmed that mine is positioned properly. I think I did not adjust my pull rod properly. When I took the plugs out, I noticed the rear cylinder was the one not firing. It was wet. So I assumed it was only running on three cylinders? So maybe I was just a little off?
 
'Sounds as if #4 coil is not firing or is not firing properly/consistently. That will make the engine run poorly, no matter how right-on the timing is. Try moving #4 coil to another cylinder and check firing again with a long screwdriver grounded to a cylinder head stud. If #4 coil box misfires in another cylinder or shorting it out doesn't affect the engine's running, you'll know that coil needs attention/replacing. If it passes the test, you'll need to keep looking elsewhere for the cause of the misfire/poor running. This test shouldn't take but a couple minutes and will get you headed in the right direction by eliminating the usual suspects right off the bat.
Marshall
 
Thank you Marshall and jwaldrich.... The coils are brand new (last year). I did make sure the coil "rattlers" are adjusted properly.

Onward to Jwaldrich's point....I did just order a new set of spark plugs.....The old ones were pretty bad looking!

The timing issue was the Linkage rod from commutator to steering column rod control. I had an old cotter key holding it together which proved to be insufficient. I replaced it with a slotted roll pin/spring pin and that took all excess play out of the spark lever at steering (Spark Lever).

I thank you guys so much for your advice and time!
I'll keep you posted after I receive the spark plugs from the mail.
 
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It was the spark plugs causing it to run on 3 cylinders. That and the play in the commutator rod.
Everything is back to normal now. It runs great!
Thanks to those of you who had something to say.
 
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