johnyeyeball
Member
I got a 21 stud with my 32 roadster how do I determine if its 1932 or not
21 stud help
- Thread starter johnyeyeball
- Start date
Ian NZ
Well-known member
The first model 1932 engines had the dipstick at the right rear of the cylinder blocks, the more common type had the dipstick on the left hand side of the engine into the aluminium oilpan and the rare steel oilpan had its dipstick in the same place which looked similar to the 1933 - 34 V8 engine oilpan. The easyest way to check that it is a 1932 engine is do as Ken suggests, the water drain petcocks should be facing vertically down.
johnyeyeball
Member
thanks for the help it looks like its not 32
Charlie Stephens
Well-known member
The following might help you narrow it down since you will probably may need the information to order parts:
Identification of the early flatheads is best approached in terms of the block. There is an unbelievable amount of interchangeability for the accessories over the years. Count the number of head studs.
1) If there are 17 studs it is a V8 60 used in vehicles between 1937 and 1940. This engine was also used in the French built Simca in the sixties but I don’t know what occurred between these two periods. Look for casting numbers and stamped steel water jackets in the side of the block. Post what you find and someone can probably further identify the engine.
2) If there are 21 studs the block was built 1932 to 1938. The transition to 24 studs was late in 1938. Check the water petcocks on the front of the block next to where the lower hose from the radiator enters either an inlet fitting (1936 and earlier) or the water pump (1937 and later). It the petcocks point straight down it is a 1932 block. If the block is not a 1932 next look for a vent from the crankcase area out through the front corner of the oil pan. If there is no vent the block is 1933-34. If there is a vent it is 1935 or later. As a matter of interest, the 1936 engines were the first to use insert bearings. Both insert and babbitt bearings were used throughout 1936. The insert bearing engines can be identified by LB cast at the top of the left front face of the block or by the letters LB stamped into the surface where the intake manifold attaches. Some engines were not stamped and in other cases people tried to inflate the price of their blocks by stamping LB into them when they were sold. Be careful. Now check for the location of the water pumps. If the water pumps mount on the block the engine is 1937 or later. All engines beginning in 1937 were inserts. Frequently you will encounter a 1937 block with factory block off plates held on by two bolts over the water pump passage at the front of the block as it was common for Ford dealers to install this engine as a replacement in the earlier cars. Of course there will be slight transition periods at model change over with the older blocks usually going into the commercial vehicles. There may be subtle differences between the 1933-34 and the 1935-36 engines but I am knowledgeable enough about these years to know what they are. The casting numbers on the flywheel housing will also help identify the exact year of the engine. Post what you find and someone can probably further identify the engine.
3) If there are 24 studs the engine was produced between late 1938 and 1953 (1954 in Canada). If the distributor is mounted on the front of the block the engine is late 1938 through 1948 (1947 for trucks). If the distributor comes up at an angle and appears more like a modern distributor it is a 1949 (1948 for truck) through 1953 (1954 in Canada). The casting numbers on the flywheel housing will further identify the exact year of the engine. Post what you find and someone can probably further identify the engine.
4) There are a lot of additional foreign and industrial applications of these engines but the preceding covers the domestic US automobile production.
Charlie Stephens
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
If you could post some pictures here of your engine we could probably tell you exactly what you have.
Charlie Stephens
Well-known member
I saw your engine in the for sale section (at least I assume it is the same one). It looks like a runner. Any chance it has insert bearings? Be sure to price out buying and rebuilding a correct '32 V8 engine before you unload the one you have (probably $5K to $7K). Any chance you car came with a 4 cylinder (the serial number on the frame will start with star AB or Star B if it was a 4 cylinder when it came from the factory).
Charlie Stephens
Charlie Stephens
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
Can't tell much from those two pictures. Need to see some complete views of the engine block from front, sides, bottom, top, back.