21 inch wheels with cracks

toyflyr

toyflyr

Junior Member
I’m new to posting on Ford Barn. I read a lot of posts but stay quiet mostly.
I’ve got 2 cars we own. One is a traditional project 31 AV8 and the other is a original 29 coupe. My question for the forum is I have 3 21 inch wheels that are good but 2 have cracks in the center hub area by spokes. Any advice on stop drilling and welding the cracks? I have tig welder and mig welder in my garage and can welder ok. But I don’t want to grow the cracks so I’m lookin for advice.

Terry Lucas
 
I have fixed several 21" rims with cracks on the inner part. I "V" grove the crack on the inside part of the rim, then sandblast the area grooved to get a clean area to weld and the weld up the groove. I usually grind down the weld, but it wont show when the rim is mounted, so it is optional. I normally only weld up rims with 1 crack, but I have welded up a rim with 3 cracks for a friend. I don't drill any holes at the end of the groove. One thing to beware on rims is "runout". You can mount a rim on the hub on the front end and spin it to see if it runs true or not. Runout can be fixed if it isn't real bad. There are post here on Fordbarn describing how to fix runout, if the runout isn't real bad. I believe that any runout less than 3/16" is probably OK.
Hope thin helps.
Rusty Nelson
 
I’ve fixed a few that way. Additional, where I can get to it, I drill 1/8” hole each end of crack and weld all up.
 
and I know many dont want to hear this, but why not buy a few good rims when they come along?

because you are still driving on welded up rims......
 
Thank you Rusty
I didn’t know if I would be welding and shrinking metal to cause more cracks or extend the crack. I’ll search runout methods.
Terry Lucas
 
Oldbluoval
That’s how you stop cracks from growing on aircraft sheet metal. Good point.
Terry Lucas
 
Mcmimmcs
I be selling at Turlock at end of January and I’ll look for a couple of good ones
Terry Lucas
 
Does it make any sense to hammer the welds with a ballpeen hammer to put the weld in compression and reduce the chance of causing more cracks?
 
Above
I wouldn’t hammer but really can specifically/metallurgically tell you why!!
But open to better heads….doesn’t take much!!
 
I seen so many of my 21" wheels crack at the hub that I can't count. Welding them up is a temporary fix - no more IMO. I now reinforce the edge of the hub whether already cracked or not. I go to my profile cutter and order steel rings cut from 3mm sheet. Each ring is 270mm ID and 290mm OD. That makes them 10mm wide. The idea is to emulate what Ford did in the years after the Model A. He rolled the edge that contacts the brake drum outwards to strengthen it. Once my rings are welded on, they do the same thing. They are visible but if painted the same colour as the wheel, they are not easily seen. In the 8 years since I first did it, I have had only one person notice.
270mm ID means they have to be fitted like you'd put on a tyre - start at one place and work your way around. If the hub has been cracked, it will be a slightly larger diameter than previously but they can be made to go on. A few welds to hold them there and away you go. Sometimes, a spoke will be too close to the edge and will need to be relieved right at the weld. Usually not.
My cars are drivers and I do mean DRIVER. Since doing that, I have not cracked another hub. Strengthening the hub means that if they are to fail again, it will be at the next weakest place. The spokes pull off the rim. When that happens, I drill a 1/4" hole through the rim where the spoke should be, push the spoke back into its place and plug weld from the tube side. After dressing up the weld and fitting a rim liner (I think you guys call them a rust band), I have had no further issues.
 
Thank you fellas for all the information and insights on the 21 ‘s
The forums help with my stumbling through the 2 projects I’m workin.
Terry Lucas
 
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