2-Tooth Steering Box Lower Race

DJ S

DJ S

Well-known member
So, I'm entirely rebuilding my steering box and I've been trying to remove the lower race from the housing. I was following Les Andrew's instructions, use a punch through the light switch bolt holes. Well I'm pounding and pounding and it's just not moving. I even creates a hole in the housing which I'm pissed about. I thought, hey, why not use longer bolts and use the bolts to push the race out. I was tightening the bolts alternately when suddenly something gave... "thud"... ****... there lay the bolt head on the garage floor. Now I think I know how to remove the broken bolt, worst case scenario, I grind it flush, ***** punch it, and use left handed drill bits on a drill press to hopefully extract it without damaging the threads. But the lower race, how on earth do you get that stupid thing out?
 
I usually give it a shot with my mig welder, then tap it out with a small roll pin punch through the lower bolt holes catching the edge..its basically loose after the mig hit
 
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It can't be driven all of the way out thru the bolt holes. The punch or bolt will hit the housing before the race falls out. That is why your bolt bottomed out and then wrung off. You can get it to back off the seat in the housing a bit but must then drive it out using a punch on the edge of the race. It takes a bit of working around the edge of the race once the race is off the seat but with patience it will come out.
 
Look at the condition of the tapered bearing surface on the race. If it's reasonably smooth. don't destroy it be trying to remove it.

600 grit wet or dry paper and some 3 in 1 oil may help improve the surface. Lube well upon reassembly.
 
It will punch out if you be careful and use the right size punch.
Once its started I believe you can use a brass drift I. Through the big hike as well to alternately drive it out ... But use a long punch through the holes as much as possible .
I've not used Mitch's method of a weld bead but I'm sure it works . You just don't want any splatter in the outwr surface to give you any grief

The only kr Wilson tool I pretty much don't have but always wanted is that one .... I have vowed to make one but haven't . You need good hard high quality punches to get it out .

Larry
 
This race is beyond saving, it has really deep pits. I'll buy better punches tomorrow and give it another shot.
 
I have restored a whole bunch and the easiest method I have found is to drill 2 holes 90 degrees from the small bolt holes. Then with a punch drive out the old race, weld up the drilled holes and press the new race in position. Make sure you don't have any weld bead inside that will hold the new race from bottoming out. Forget trying to drive the race out through the bolt holes, it won't work 98% of the time. Don't think KR Wilson made a race removal tool for the steering box, at least I haven't seen one in my 60 years of Model Aing! Arlyn Bieber, San Diego
 
Arlyn,

I haven't tried that method but sounds like it may be quicker. I drive them out through the holes to get them started and then use a drift on the inside as well. admittedly it's slow and you have to catch the edge of the race just right.
The KRW tool is A403C . Outside of the combination stuff it's one of a handful that has eluded me through the years. I still have time and am on the hunt though. Missed one on ebay a year or so ago.

Larry
 
Like Mitch said: use a mig or arc welder and lay a small bead on the bearing surface where the balls run. This will draw the bearing and will make it loose. I have taken a lot of inner race's out this way when I worked in a paper factory doing maintenance.
 
See post three i used a punch like mitch said did not destroy any thing need to be a good punch mine was tight but it came out.
 
I wish someone could post a picture or a drawing so that we novices can understand what you are saying I have to do one in the spring and am interested. Jack
 
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