2 Tooth Center?

J

jeepguy1948

Well-known member
This question is for my RHD Brothers. If you don’t have an RHD steering box you will have no idea what I’m talking about.

I am trying to adjust the steering box following Paul Shins YouTube video on the subject but I have come upon a confusing situation.
The thrust bearing adjustment which is at the 12:00 position on a LHD Box is actually at the 9:00 position (when viewed from the front of the car). I assume that there is a reason or that?
The problem I’m having is that the Pitman arm is nowhere near vertical when I use the lock to lock divided by 2 method. When I “center” the steering wheel the car is turning to the right by a significant amount?
I’m guessing that this is something that must be dealt with on RHD cars but I don’t know how.
 
Make sure the pitman arm is disconnected from the drag link, then get the centre of the left and right travel in the box,put. a tape on the steering wheel to mark the centre, then do your adjustments, if the worm is worn you will not be able to get the play down to the minimum and not have it tight at 1/2 turn each way with the adjust able rivet .
If, when you get the steering set up with it in the centre of the travel, then put the drag link back on, IF the wheels are not in the straight ahead position when driving, you will need to an adjustable drag link
Lawrie
 
If I “Center” the wheel left n right then the pitman arm is in the 5:00 position, NOT the 6:00 position. I understand about an adjustable drag link but that is irrelevant if the pitman arm is not vertical when the steering wheel is centered. I am hoping to hear something about the thrust bearing adjuster being in the 9:00 position on the box. The box is NOT rotated 90 degrees but the adjuster is on the side not the top. This tells me that some kind of compromise was made for the RHD cars, but what?
There is not much of anything to take a picture of, close your eyes and imagine the adjuster sticking out the side of the box instead of the top.
 
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First picture shows the thrust adjuster in the 9:00 position. Second picture shows the pitman arm in the 5:00 position when the wheel is centered
 
looks like you have very short pitman arm , ???maybe just the picture , If the box is in the center & wheels straight a head whats the problem ?? or you saying you have less lock one way than the other ,
 
I followed Les Andrews' directions but made allowances for the differences which I think are because the carburettor and the thrust adjustment bolt would be trying to occupy the same space on a RHD if it were at the top like the LHD ones are. It's pretty tight in there.
 
On my car if the Pitman arm is vertical in the 6:00 position the wheels are pointed straight and this is as it should be. However if I center the steering box (lock to lock) the Pitman arm is in the 5:00 position (as shown in the picture) and the car is turning to the right. The Pitman arm is supposed to be in the 6:00 position when the steering box is centered (lock to lock) because the box is tightest when centered.
 
Some time ago there was some repo pitman arms that the square was not correct with the arm , hence gave the problem you are describing , they put the ball to square ratio about an !" out , Ecklers had them . could this be the problem ,
 
jeepguy1948 said:
On my car if the Pitman arm is vertical in the 6:00 position the wheels are pointed straight and this is as it should be. However if I center the steering box (lock to lock) the Pitman arm is in the 5:00 position (as shown in the picture) and the car is turning to the right. The Pitman arm is supposed to be in the 6:00 position when the steering box is centered (lock to lock) because the box is tightest when centered.
Click to expand...

Anything that places the worm in the wrong position along the axis of the steering shaft is going to change the angle of the pitman arm when the gear is centered.

Did you just press a new worm gear on? Are you certain that it is in the exact correct position along the shaft?

Was the worm centered when the sector was installed?

Double check the installation of the lower tapered worm bearing and bearing cup.

There are a lot of these steering columns out there without this problem, so you will figure it out. :cool:
 
I have done nothing inside of the box Jim it’s just the way I bought the car. I am simply trying to adjust the box and I ran into this issue. Apparently there is an adjustment that can be done on the 2 tooth that has to do with centering the box but it appears that the box must be out of the car to get at it. There are 4 adjustments in total but only 3 can be done in the car (although I’m going to check that myself).
 
It will certainly be easier to properly adjust the box out of the car. You can also then open it up and confirm that everything inside is correct. It sounds like someone before you did not adjust your box properly.

I used to be intimidated by these steering gear boxes, but after messing with them for a while, I've figured out that they are really pretty simple to assemble and adjust on the bench. The instructions in the Service Bulletins and in Les's book are good.
 
I would be wondering if the worm has ever been replaced. If so, was it the correct one. I haven't removed a worm gear from the steering shaft on a model A Gemmer box but I have on the later Gemmer boxes and they have an index of sorts but it has very shallow spline so it's possible to press it on in the wrong position if care is not taken in the process.
 
I dont think that would make a difference, as it would only maybe put the steering wheel out , not the centre of the worm

Lawrie
 
I have adjusted numerous 2 tooth boxes and the lock to lock position isn't always equal turns or divided equally to find the center. The steering shaft with gear normally would be aligned with the bearing adjustment bolt and filler plug, then see how many turns clockwise to stop from that position and counter clock wise to stop. If 1 3/4 to center one way and 1 1/2 turns the other way, you may not get any better than that. As stated, generally the original pitman arm would be vertical with the wheels straight ahead which needs measurement to get that position on a flat surface with the toe in accounted for in to the equation. Or use a very straight wood or metal pipe or tube to align the wheels front to back like the conveyor tracks used at the factory. If a shortened Pittman arm is used which you apparently have,, then an adjustable drag link is needed to get the wheels straight ahead position with the steering shaft centered, etc. Again, the wheel lock to lock to center may not always if any time be exactly equal. Even so, one can remove most freeplay at the steering wheel per the Service Bulletin procedures. The lash position needs to be done usually with gear out of the car. Also check the axle wheel stops (king pin) that they are the same length. Also, don't use the steering box housing with quadrants as a guide because that may be turned off center for other adjustments. One can pull up the horn rod and see where the steering wheel key ways are, one should be in the center aligned position without removing the steering wheel.
 
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I've noticed the same thing as the previous poster. It's close but not the same. As far as worm position, it has to be keyed to the steering shaft woodruff key to get center pitman position even with the steering wheel position. Ford made steering wheels with two keyway cuts so that the wheel spoke position could be adjusted to driver preference but this came later in production. One position was with a spoke straight up and the other position was with spokes at a 45 degree position to see through the steering wheel for the short little old lady types.

Adjusting the ends of the tie rod can move the front wheel position relative to the pitman arm centered location but movement is somewhat limited. I've heard of an adjustable drag link but Ford didn't make any. Unless it's way out then a person can generally play with it till is gets pretty close. I only worry about centering the steering wheel pretty close to the pitman centered position. I don't worry so much about lock to lock count. It should be close but it doesn't have to be exact for good steering.
 
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Looks like I am going to need an adjustable drag link, suggestions on a source? I know that in a video Paul recommends one but I can’t find it.
 
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