2 tooth adjustment

I just did this, and at first the number of adjustments and descriptions were intimidating. Les Andrew's book is good, I also used Clymer Service Manual. The best though is the DVD I got through Bratton's: Diablo A's Rebuilding 2 Tooth Steering. Great hands on descriptions and you can watch each adjustment. There are 4:

1) Steering wheel shaft. This is the screw on the top of the housing. Adjusts end play in that shaft. (End play is back and forth along the length of the shaft) Too tight and you can crack the bearing.

2) Sector shaft end play. This is the screw on the engine side of the housing. Also adjusts end play, but on the sector shaft.

3) Sector mesh. This is the upper right bolt on the sector housing, there is a hex eccentric cam there. Adjusts how far into the worm the sector teeth penetrate. The odd thing is the mesh is not linear across the length of the worm. It gets tighter at each end, looser in the center which is steering straight ahead.

4) The eccentric rivet in between the lower two sector housing bolts. This evens out left and right differences (if any) in the sector mesh when evaluating any binding at the end limits of the steering. In #3 you feel the mesh tighten at the far left and right turns of the wheel. If the left and right are uneven, this is the adjustment.

There's lot more details to be aware of than this brief summary. Get some good manuals.
 
I seem to remember that #3, the sector mesh is tightest in the center, not the other way around. Might want to take note of that.
 
Brent Bob is correct; the freeplay at the steering wheel is tightest or the least at the center of turns lock to lock or extreme to extreme, usually 2 3/4 to 3 turns. This is with the stock pitman arm when the wheels are straight ahead. The slot for the steering wheel woodruff key should be the point to align with the bolt in the #1 adjustment in post 3 above as a guide for the minimum free play center position.
 
Service bulletins, as said.

4th adjustment is often not needed.

They are pretty simple once you start doing it. All adjustments can be made while box is in the car.
 
duke36 said:
Brent Bob is correct; the freeplay at the steering wheel is tightest or the least at the center of turns lock to lock or extreme to extreme, usually 2 3/4 to 3 turns. This is with the stock pitman arm when the wheels are straight ahead. The slot for the steering wheel woodruff key should be the point to align with the bolt in the #1 adjustment in post 3 above as a guide for the minimum free play center position.
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2 questions:

The mesh adjustment procedure has you tighten the mesh at center position until you eliminate play with no binding. Then you check for binding steering to full left and full right. If there is binding, you back off the sector mesh until it frees. That is why I said it is tighter at the limits, not the center. Are you saying that although it binds, the play is more?

How do you see the woodruff key if the car is together? Do you take the horn button out? I just went with counting turns, seemed accurate enough.
 
f balsiger said:
I dont under stand how the adjustments work in agemmer two tooth steering gear.
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One just has to read and re-read the instructions until they finally make sense. Sometimes you will find that we need to also do it and re-do it until it comes together. Also, in the case of a 90 year old steering gear, you should expect that no amount of adjusting is likely to make it work like new and for sure, not like a modern car. You may need to live with some slop in the center and have it be tight on left and right extremes. This is because all the 90 years of wear happened while pointing the car straight down the road. You can, of course, invest in new parts and rebuild it. Just remember that new parts usually "almost fit"
 
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