2 Post Lift for garage

1930marie

1930marie

Senior Member
I am to old for jack stands anymore, so, I could really use some help with which 2-post to buy that will lift a Model A roadster. My garage; floor to ceiling is 12ft. I have measured that with the top and windshield down, I will have almost 5ft working heigth. At this point, I would be happy with 4 feet! lol. Any recommendations appreciated. Thanks!
 
I decided against a two post lift, due to the fact that I would still have to get on my knees to set the arms under frame...I bought a 4 post Bend Pac and love it...
 
Ditto on the 4 post Bend Pac, I have two.. With the 4 post you can use a trolley jack and do wheel work as well. I also feel it is safer to use without the worry of a vehicle slipping off the pads, 7+ years and no regrets with the 4 post. BTW I bought a HD9 (9000 lb) and a HD14 (14000 lbs) the HD14 is longer and wider so you I can put a crew cab DRW 4X4 on it. The HD9 will be all you need for standard use.
 
I have worked with both 2 and 4 post lifts.They both have their advantages and their drawbacks.For most everyday work on modern cars I like a drive on,or 4 post.For the A's,I much prefer the 2 post.It is a real problem taking the A rear out on a 4 post.On a 2 post you put it up,unhook everything except the U-bolts,drop it back to the ground,unhook the U-bolts and pick the car up again without the rear.I have a Challenger right now,it is a good all-around lift.I call it my pressed tin lift.It is a pain to get the legs just right before you pick it up,but that is the only real complaint.
 
Also consider, your cement has to be thick enough for the anchors. I don't know that spec, but a friend of mine had to pour a thicker pad to be safe.
 
Last night I watched a series of pictures on FaceBook depicting "goofs", primarily with 2-post lifts. Not a real pretty picture.
 
I've also used every type of hoist and the 4 post drive on would be my choice.

Keith has a point with rear end removal, but that would be such a rare thing for me that I'd just do it the way I do now, with jack stands and a floor jack.

The 4 post drive on also gives you an addition parking spot and it's much easier than getting on your knees to set the two post to lift for a parking spot.
 
Each style lift has pros and cons depending on what your main use will be... All were good points brought up...
Using a 2 post on the A you need 1ft adapters to clear the running boards.. It takes a good 15 min to set it up properly crawling around on your knees.. The lift pads have to be adjusted just right to clear the brake rods. A 4 post is more cumbersome to do things on because of the runways, but is easy on easy off... So as you see a lot needs to go into your decision..
 
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The 4 post Bend Pak should be fine - thank you for all the excellent direction. The 2 post with the adapters would be too much work for me. Getting older, however, my "A" is still not for sale! lol
 
I believe if I had to chose I'd go w/ the four post especially working on a Model A. A Model A has a flimsy frame that likes to twist and bend, designed that way. A two post holding up an A would make me nervous:eek: The Flathead Fords had much stronger ladder-X frames they would be OK.

But then again, age is getting to knees and back my days of wrenching on anything is running short.
 
Several years ago, back when "filling stations" actually had repair bays instead of convenience stores, my cousin had spotted a station close to where he lives that had closed and they were tearing down the building. He made a deal for the lift out of the service bay. So now he has installed in his shop a lift that has the single large hydraulic ram to lift his cars.
 
There are pros and cons on both, I have the 2 post, you just have to be patient setting it up. and it does beat the creeper. No mater which one you use just pay attention to what your doing.
 
I had both a 2 post and a four post bend pac when I still had my 29 fordoor. And for eas of working on the bottom of the car the two post was great but it was a pain to get the car on it and set right to lift it. As others have said the four post was a breeze to load and in load. And before you buy anything please check what need for concrete depth before you buy it and don't have enough depth to hold it safely. Saw last year first hand a friends home shop with his pride and joy sitting on it the failure because the anchors gave way because of improper concrete depth. It could have been a whole lot worse he got a phone call and his wife called him, he had just cleared the garage and had come out under the lift when the whole thing let go. While his car took some serious major damage and was a real witch to get it off and out of the garage in one piece it could have been so much worse. We all could have been going to a funeral,
 
Jeff/Illinois said:
I believe if I had to chose I'd go w/ the four post especially working on a Model A. A Model A has a flimsy frame that likes to twist and bend, designed that way. A two post holding up an A would make me nervous:eek: The Flathead Fords had much stronger ladder-X frames they would be OK.

But then again, age is getting to knees and back my days of wrenching on anything is running short.
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There are good reasons for both a two post lift and a four post, but worrying about a "flimsy frame" is certainly not a concern when using a two post. My Town Sedan is very solid on my Bend Pak two post. As mitch said, proper and careful positioning of the pads as they are brought up to the frame is critical, as they must clear brake rods etc. But working on a car on a two post is so much easier that using a four post for almost any repair task.
 
You do need good concrete for a 2 post.You can set a 4 post on most anything,it is self supporting.What I like about my Challenger is the fact that it has 52 inch feet on it,and they are 6X6 angle iron.That makes for a good footprint.I really don't care for the 2 post lifts with something like a 20X20 plate for a foot.I always get the feeling that I could tip something if I rock the car too much.With my 2 post I put the rear risers on the frame where the rear radius rods cross it.I put them on the front side so I can roll the rear end out.On the front I put the risers under the frame at the side motor mounts.With 4 resting points the car is more rigid than when it sits on it's feet.I do strap the rear of the car to the lift when I remove the rear end,I feel like the engine weight wants to tip it frontwards.No evidence to support that thinking,I have tried to rock the car like that without strapping it,no problems,it just makes me feel better doing it.
 
You might look at a whole car sissor jack. Saw one at my car dealer.looked looks a cross between a 2 & 4 jack system. It was a bend pac model. harbor freight has clone of it.
 
forever4 said:
I don't have a lift.
I like the BendPak, as far as I know, but don't trust the company much.
I cannot find anywhere on their website where they will actually admit where anything is made.
I know some is made in the US, but their new $65 Million dollar plant is in China.
I wish they would be a little more upfront about things.

http://www.bendpak.com/BendPak-New-Manufacturing-Complex.pdf
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Forever, my Bend Pak is manufactured in China and is built like a tank. Some non-ALI certified lifts are not built nearly as heavy. As you probably know, unless you invest in a Mohawk lift you will almost certainly be buying a lift made in China. My opinion, the most important factor is to buy an ALI certified lift. Bend Pak is certified.
 
I have a 4 post drive-on with two extra longitudinal beams that roll on bearings to any positions laterally between the posts. ie they roll sideways and bear on the two lateral end beams that support the ramps. These "jacking beams" go up and down with the car on the ramps, but can be latched in any position on the 4 posts so that when the ramps are lowered away from the wheels the car stays in the air supported on its axles or the frame using 4 spacer blocks on these beams. These blocks are easy to place from under the car when up on the ramps. I too cannot kneel about to place things under the car when on the ground.
My hoist is an older English Bradbury. But the lockable jacking beams work really well.
For rear axle removal they need to be rolled outside the wheels though (that is to the outside edges of the ramps), so Keith True's removal method for a 2 poster cannot be used. For this I use axle stands under the frame, placed using my transverse jacking beam. I lower the ramps to the ground and roll the back out on the drums riding on timber 4 by 2's (two by fours in US speak!).
When in a hurry I use a fork hoist like Mitch, but this is not necessary.
I am not sure if this type of extra long-beams hoist is still available.
My workshop also has a conventional modern 4 post with sliding jacking cross beam, but this is not nearly as friendly as my Bradbury.
No pic possible at present because I am in Melbourne for a week. I live in Auckland. I believe my avatar shows my roadster up on the Bradbury. I can't see the avatar while I am typing this on my phone.
SAJ not in NZ at present
 
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