1966 289 valve adjustment!

6

66Fairlane500

Junior Member
Hi thereIm new in this forum, and i thought you guys might be able to help me out.


I know this question has been asked a million times, but the more i Google for answers, the more confused i get.
So now I am asking for the information I need :-)


First up, i just put in a new cam and lifter kit (hydraulic lifters), in my '66 Fairlane 289.
I've now made it to the point of valve adjustment, and i just want to be sure they are working properly, 'cause i just want to fire it up and break in the cam, without any hold outs.


I've been turning the Oil pump, to pump up the lifters,
but not all of the lifters are "pumped hard".


Here's the question: what Would be the right Way to adjust the valves? Mostly how much should to rockers be tightened?


I hope you guys Can help out :-)
 
take the play out of them and start the engine.back each one of till it starts to click.turn it slowly till tick is gone and then put a full turn on them slowly.engine will do some shaking as the lifters bleed down.
 
Darrell is right. But you asked how to do it so it doesnt need to be done again. With each lifter on the base of the cam, tighten the nut while turning the pushrod with your fingers. When it stops turning, go further on the nut from 1/4 turn to one full turn.
 
Thank you for the answers!

Ole Don, that is what i've read and im sure it's the right way.
But still i dont understand fullly (maybe im just dumb)...

When i tighten further, after the pushrod cant be turned, i Would say that the valve Will be too tight and stand a bit open. But does the lifter bleed down and equalize the pressure?
Does the question make sense?
 
old dons way saves a mess thats the way i do it now but i wasnt sure you would understand.you set them like a solid lifter on the comp,stroke with valves closed.most go with 3/4 to full turn after contact to centre the plunger inside the lifter.the lifter bleeds down and its a go.
 
Thank you, i think i finally got it now.
Im gonna work on the adjustment tomorrow.

By the way, when you "break in" the cam, do you run it at about 2500-3000rpm for about 20 minutes, or something like that?
 
yes.i had a 66 galaxie with 289 back in the day. a smooth little engine but underpowered in a galaxie.
 
Yeah, the Galaxie is also a bit bigger and heavyer than the Fairlane.
My Fairlane is like family to me.
My grandfather bought it in '75, when he wrecked his '64 Plymouth Savoy.
 
Posts: 4

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Re: 1966 289 valve adjustment!
Thank you for the answers!

Ole Don, that is what i've read and im sure it's the right way.
But still i dont understand fullly (maybe im just dumb)...

I dont know how much travel most hydraulic lifters have. Lets just say its .100 If you turn the nut down 1/4 to one full turn you take the lifter plunger down about .025 to .050. Maybe if you test one with a non locking nut just to see and measure. If you do that, please share the results.
 
Check a shop manual for the amount to tighten after all the play is taken out. Some say a half turn, others a full term. I don't remember what a small block ford is.
 
First you need to figure out if you have adjustable or non adjustable rockers. Starting in 66 a lot had non adjustable rocker. Adjustables will have a 3/8 threaded stud, non adjustables will have a 5/16 stud. With the 5/16 stud you just tighten them down to about 22 pounds. With the 3/8 stud... here's the way I do it. First I would not of pumped up the lifters until after the valves are adjusted. I start at number 1 cyl and turn it until the exh valve just opens and then set the intake valve, then turn until the intake valve just closes and set the exh valve. Go on down the line the same way for each cylinder. Doing it that pretty much assures you you are on the heal of the lobe for each valve. As far as the adjustment, I have the intake off and feel the pushrod for up and down movement when adjusting. To many times have I seen people spin the pushrod all the way to the bottom of its travel, because it never got tight, then turn it another turn. It holds all the valves open then. So when you take all the up and down travel out, you are ready to set that valve. I usually turn them down 3/4 to 1 full turn. Hope that make sense to you.
 
Late 66 engines had rail type rockers, they may not be adjustable. Rail rockers have a lip on each side of the area that contacts the valve to keep it aligned. The earlier small blocks don't have the lips. The rocker to valve alignment is done by the push rod hole in the head, it is slotted to keep the push rod from moving side to side. The original 271 horse engines didn't have slots in the head, but used guide plates secured under the threaded in rocker studs.
Some of the early rail rocker heads were adjustable and some were a positive stop. If you don't have self locking nuts, then they were not designed to be adjustable. If that were the case the nuts were tightened against the stop on the stud. The valve clearance was pre determined before the heads were assembled and if needed, longer or shorter push rods were available
As mentioned above, assuming you have adjustable rockers, set the valves before ever firing the engine, put on the valve covers and forget it. Hydraulic lifters are very forgiving, just make sure the lifter you are setting is on the back side of the cam and adjust the rocker nut between 1/4 and 3/4 of a turn past zero lash(when the slack is just gone). If you are in doubt of where the back side of the cam is, try this: Turn the engine by hand until the exhaust valve on the cylinder you are working on just starts to open, then set the lash on the intake. Then turn the engine until the intake valve has just finished closing, at that point adjust the exhaust lash. Do this and you will be spot on without the oil mess. Just be sure and use lots of cam break in lube(zinc)
 
craig said:
Late 66 engines had rail type rockers, they may not be adjustable. Rail rockers have a lip on each side of the area that contacts the valve to keep it aligned. The earlier small blocks don't have the lips. The rocker to valve alignment is done by the push rod hole in the head, it is slotted to keep the push rod from moving side to side. The original 271 horse engines didn't have slots in the head, but used guide plates secured under the threaded in rocker studs.
Some of the early rail rocker heads were adjustable and some were a positive stop. If you don't have self locking nuts, then they were not designed to be adjustable. If that were the case the nuts were tightened against the stop on the stud. The valve clearance was pre determined before the heads were assembled and if needed, longer or shorter push rods were available
As mentioned above, assuming you have adjustable rockers, set the valves before ever firing the engine, put on the valve covers and forget it. Hydraulic lifters are very forgiving, just make sure the lifter you are setting is on the back side of the cam and adjust the rocker nut between 1/4 and 3/4 of a turn past zero lash(when the slack is just gone). If you are in doubt of where the back side of the cam is, try this: Turn the engine by hand until the exhaust valve on the cylinder you are working on just starts to open, then set the lash on the intake. Then turn the engine until the intake valve has just finished closing, at that point adjust the exhaust lash. Do this and you will be spot on without the oil mess. Just be sure and use lots of cam break in lube(zinc)
Click to expand...


You are correct on all but the 271 HP heads. All C3, C5 and C7 hipo heads never had guide plates from the factory. All had sloted pushrod holes and conventional rockers. They did have factory screw in studs and harden pushrods, also cast in spring seats.
 
Thank you for all your replies.

An Update: yes, the rockers are adjustable, and i used the remove-play-plus-1/2-turn method, and the in tripple checked that the rockers wasn't too tight after the lifters bled down, and checked the valves opened and closed properly at the right time.

I haven't fired her up yet.
Still needs to fit the exhaust, but i will give you an Update after cam break in.
 
Hey guys

An Update as promised:
I got her fired up with no troubles, and the cam break in sent on without struggle. No ratlling, no ticking and no explosions.

Still need to adjust timing and carb
 
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