1964 Fairlane disc brakes

[early28]

Thanks Bob. I plumbed according to #2 and that has been changed. God Bless

 

[KULTULZ]

The correct name for your valve is a combination valve, combining fluid distribution, pressure differential and rear proportioning.

You are correct and I am wrong. It is a PDV and PV. I apologize profusely.

I a$$-u-me(ed) ...

... it was a PDV only as this apparently isn't a FORD valve. It looks like the ones sold by these Disc Brake Swap Companies for a CHEVELLE.

OP, where did you get this valve?

FORD (K-H) proportioning valve (of the period) shown below-

 

[V8 Bob]

You are correct and I am wrong. It is a PDV and PV. I apologize profusely.

KULTULZ, accepted and no problem, but I would like to know why you are sooo against adjustable prop valves.
Some history. During the many years I tested brakes, some of the time was spent performing vehicle dynamic balance tests to arrive at desired proportioning results for production. There were many fixed value prop valves used by the factories, differing in "crack points" or knees and psi percentages, based on the vehicle's W/B, weight, CG, tires etc. Adjustable valves were sometimes used to help the testing, and one valve I still have is a KH that came on some mid-'60s disc/drum Lincolns and/or T-Birds! (Proportioning valves were stand-alone until about 1970) The odds of factory fixed value valves working properly on a custom non-stock brake system is a crap shoot at best. General results will be either too much rear braking, or not enough. The rears should do their fair share without any early wheel slide.
Additionally, combination valves create more plumbing, and are not very attractive, IMO. Very seldom is the pressure differential switch wired, much less understood. Metering, if included, can make bleeding difficult, and is not necessary.

 

[KULTULZ]

KULTULZ, accepted and no problem,

...whew...

I can't afford to p!ss-off too many more people...

but I would like to know why you are sooo against adjustable prop valves.

Some history. During the many years I tested brakes...

You just answered your own question. You understand theory and know how to go about it. These kit vendors throw one in the box with little or no concern who is installing the kit.

Additionally, combination valves create more plumbing, and are not very attractive, IMO. Very seldom is the pressure differential switch wired, much less understood.

Metering, if included, can make bleeding difficult, and is not necessary.

(IMO) ...

In most instances, the valving is hidden (even though I like the appearance of that cute little bracket that allows mounting directly under the MC).

As for the METERING VALVE, I feel it is paramount as it allows the braking vehicle to stabilize (brake bias) before the front discs apply. You have to take into consideration rear brakes adjustment, correct and functioning residual valve, etc.

THANX AGAIN! ...

BTW (save me an edit)...

There are methods and tools to make bleeding with metering valve equipped much easier.

 

[early28]

The brake problem has been resolved on the 1964 Fairlane. First of all a new 1 inch master cylinder was installed in place of the 15/16 one that came with the disc brake kit. Second the front brake line was ran to the top of the proportioning valve instead of the front. The front connection port on the proportioning valve was ran to a metering valve and then split off to the front calipers. The bottom port for the front brakes was plugged. Third the stock master cylinder push rod was replaced with an adjustable one to remove the slack in the brake paddle. All this gave me an additional 1 1/2 inch on the height of the paddle. Very happy with the conversion at this point. We'll see how it holds up in the months ahead. Thanks to all who replied with the much needed information. A great bunch of guys and gals. Hope everyone has a Happy New Year and God Bless, Selmer

 

[KULTULZ]

GOOD TO HEAR!

So much for a correct retro direct-fit kit...

I think I would stay far away from this kit seller in the future. They are going to get someone hurt.

 

[early28]

Well, to begin with I'm very pleased with the kit. The line from the MC to proportioning valve is a result of misinformation from the internet. The slack in the MC push rod may have always been there. Something I never through to check. If I have measured the bore of the MC to start with, I would have known to go with the 1 inch. It was my misunderstanding that a metering valve was built into the proportioning with was not the case. I perceive that none of this is a fault with the kit. With this kit I can go to any of the four auto parts dealers in my area and buy parts for it. Including the 1" MC. The other kit that I have for the same car uses parts from Toyota, Chevy, Dorman, and who knows who made the brackets. Also you have to modify the hubs or use the new fabricated ones that come with the kit. I believe I made the correct chose. I would recommend this kit for the early Mustangs and Fairlanes. Just do the simple home work up front, which I apparently didn't do. Thanks again for all the correct information and God Bless, Selmer

 

[KULTULZ]

Well, to begin with I'm very pleased with the kit. The line from the MC to proportioning valve is a result of misinformation from the internet. The slack in the MC push rod may have always been there. Something I never through to check. If I have measured the bore of the MC to start with, I would have known to go with the 1 inch. It was my misunderstanding that a metering valve was built into the proportioning with was not the case. I perceive that none of this is a fault with the kit. With this kit I can go to any of the four auto parts dealers in my area and buy parts for it. Including the 1" MC. The other kit that I have for the same car uses parts from Toyota, Chevy, Dorman, and who knows who made the brackets. Also you have to modify the hubs or use the new fabricated ones that come with the kit. I believe I made the correct chose. I would recommend this kit for the early Mustangs and Fairlanes. Just do the simple home work up front, which I apparently didn't do.

Thanks again for all the correct information and God Bless,

Selmer

I am happy to see you got things sorted out and the car stops to your satisfaction.

What I meant was the kit vendor offering an incomplete kit and without all necessary information.

They are selling a product which (IMO) may be dangerous to those less skilled and information seeking as yourself. The K-H 4-Piston Design Disc Brake System was (and still is) a very well engineered product.

It is just the kit accessory pieces and lack of information where they (kit vendor) are lacking.