1956 ford customline starter problem

56yblock

56yblock

Senior Member
hello everybody, I have a problem with my starter on my 1956 ford customline,it won't start
I changed the solenoid by a new , I removed the starter from the car, I cleaned it, I checked the brushes they are still good, I tested it with a battery, it runs well, i put it on the car, and nothing, it doesn't turn , do you have any ideas?
 
Assuming the battery is in good shape & charged. Is there any clicking from the starter solenoid?

Automatic transmission?
The neutral safety switch circuit can prevent the starter solenoid (and starter) from engaging. The original switch may/should only connect when the shifter is placed in neutral.

You most likely have three battery and starter cables. The Plus and Minus terminal cables on the battery and a large cable from the solenoid to the starter. A total of six connections.

There are two often neglected connections. The battery Ground cable connection to the engine and the housing of the starter solenoid electrically grounds on the inner fender or firewall.

There is another ground wire from the engine to the firewall although it usually won't affect the operation of the starter, just most everything else.

All of these connections must be metal-to-metal clean and tight.
 

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Are you trying to start it in park or neutral ? In 56, the car would only start if it was in neutral. Won't start in Park
 
the car is manual transmission, when i try to start , i hear a clickin, the selenoide it's new, i' doing the same wiring when i'd changed it, the starter works with the battery direct, maybe the problem with starter drive when it's on the car?
 
Make sure the ground goes to the engine, then another ground from body to engine, and frame to engine. The star washer goes to the engine side of the cable, to cut through paint and dirt.
 
56yblock said:
i don't know how to do it,
Click to expand...
To make it easy disconnect battery cables and run jumper directly to starter lug. Then ground second cable to starter case or your engine block and that will eliminate everything else. Watch out for sparks. Before doing this, I would take a voltage reading at starter when trying to crank as this will tell you if you problem lies elsewhere.
 
From the way you describe it, it sounds like the engine is locked up.
If starter drive is stuck, it will not engage with the ring-gear on the flywheel, but starter motor will spin rapidly when you turn the key to start and you should be able to hear it.
If you find that the starter drive (bendix) is stuck, take the starter out and pull the drive off the starter shaft. Dunk the starter drive in a big coffee can full of solvent like gasoline or kerosene and slosh it around to clean the gunk out of it. Pull it out, let it dry and DO NOT lubricate it. It must be dry when you re-install.
 
if i understand you, you think the starter drive is stuck and will not engagged on flywhell? but when i connect direct battery it turn fast and well, maybe something i'm not understand
 
here's my my starter, before i put on car, is it normal position?
 

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Your starter looks to be in the correct position for installation. As a word of caution, do not under any circumstances allow the bendix (that's the mechanism on the end of the shaft) to move away from the starter case.
 
The starter may be weak due to internal shorts or the cables may be corroded internally. Since this is a 56 I assume it has a 12-volt negative ground system. Make sure battery and starter cables are all well connected. Get the battery load tested to make sure it isn't going south.

The clutch could be stuck to the flywheel. It's not common but it can happen. The motor should be checked by either rotating it at the front or at the starter ring just to make sure it turns.
 
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I charged the battery, cleaned all the wiring, the terminals, etc... it started, but the starter turns very slowly, I turned off the ignition, and I tried again, and nothing
 
Sounds like you've got the good grounds you need! Might be time to rebuild the starter, or exchange it for a new one??

(BTW, hope your top bolt next to the block is easier to reach than the one in my 312 ci Y Block!!:rolleyes:)
 
56yblock said:
I charged the battery, cleaned all the wiring, the terminals, etc... it started, but the starter turns very slowly, I turned off the ignition, and I tried again, and nothing
Click to expand...

Have your battery load tested before proceeding with other repairs.
 
I removed the starter out of the car again, put it on the table, the brushes seems looks like good, the starter drive works , but the electric coating where the brushes works is well scratched
 
Check for play in the bushings. The armature can rub the field pole shoes if the bushings wear out. During an overhaul, the field resistance should be checked and the armature should be put on a growler to check the windings. The commutater should also be checked for shorts or opens. It may need turning or undercut of the mica segment insulators depending on condition. Starters can be a little worn and still function OK but a lot of wear or any shorts or opens and it will really affect the function.
 
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