1956 F100 Transmission swap

N7RDV

N7RDV

New member
Hello all!

I have a 1956 F100 with a 292 Y-Block.

I am swapping out a Borg Warner T98 for a Borg Warner T85c-1a w/R11.

I have run into an issue that I would like to see if anyone else has encountered.

The T85c does not have the mounting ears for the clutch rod pivot point.

Has anyone dealt with this issue?

I have a couple of ideas but, looking to see if anyone as a more elegant or simpler idea then I'm thinking of.

Michael
 
Hydraulic? Seems the easiest way to go in your case since your new trans lacks the needed mtg. ears for the stock mechanical linkage.
 
You have 2 choices that I figured out when I did mine.Either hydraulic or fab a bracket to have the pivot ball mounted to.I did the hydraulic route.
 
Post a few pictures of what you have and both transmissions so we can compare. I went hydraulic with an external slave on my car, but you still have to mount the slave securely as well as the clutch master.
 
can you not swap out the bell housings? correct me if I am wrong but I thought the ears you are speaking about are cast into the bell, not the actual trans...?
 
The truck bells were deeper than the car bells if I remember correctly. If a car trans is used the input shaft my not properly go into the pilot bushing.



I solved this problem when I used a FE trans against a Windsor engine (289-302). The FE trans input shaft was shorter than the small block input shaft. I had a friend make up a special pilot bearing that was longer that usual. You have to make sure that the the slider that the throwout bearing rides on has enough travel length and the splined part of the shaft is long enough to properly actuate the clutch.



Hot Rod Reverend said:
can you not swap out the bell housings? correct me if I am wrong but I thought the ears you are speaking about are cast into the bell, not the actual trans...?
Click to expand...
 
When doing a swap like this I like to put the trans in with no clutch so I can look up inside with a bright light and a mirror to check things. Never try to pull the trans up tight with the four bolts, those trans ears break off easy. It should just push in by hand, then run in the bolts. I made up long bolts with no head but a screw driver slot to be used as guide pins.
 
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