1956 F100 Horn Problem
- Thread starter wolfords
- Start date
rotorwrench
Well-known member
There may be a short in the grounding circuit in the steering column.
dmsfrr
Well-known member
IF the horn circuit wiring of a '56 F100 is the same as the '55/'57 cars, the same Battery + wire from the voltage regulator that powers the relay also powers the horns.
The switch contacts in the relay for the horns could be bad, but you replaced it already. Maybe the wire to the horn(s), the horns themselves, or their ground?. Were those parts recently painted?
Run a temporary jumper wire from the Positive terminal of the battery (or starter solenoid) directly to the power terminal on the horn(s) to see if they work.
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The switch contacts in the relay for the horns could be bad, but you replaced it already. Maybe the wire to the horn(s), the horns themselves, or their ground?. Were those parts recently painted?
Run a temporary jumper wire from the Positive terminal of the battery (or starter solenoid) directly to the power terminal on the horn(s) to see if they work.
.
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Thank you! I've run a jumper wire from the relay power to the horn and it works. I've also tried a jumper wire from the horn side to the horn with nothing. I have sparks at the steering wheel and at the relay marked "S". I haven't pulled the wire out of the steering column but it looks good on both ends. Maybe I have a defective relay? I haven't painted the horns. Thanks again.
dmsfrr
Well-known member
If the wire thru the steering column has worn or crumbling insulation and is grounding out when it shouldn't, the relay and horn would be activated each time.
My guess is that the relay has an internal problem. Depending on the version you have you can open them up to look inside and clean the switch contacts if needed.
You can connect a test light to the H - horn terminal on the relay to see if it's working properly.
Or use a continuity tester to see if the wire from the relay to the horn is shorted to ground with both ends disconnected.
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My guess is that the relay has an internal problem. Depending on the version you have you can open them up to look inside and clean the switch contacts if needed.
There shouldn't be sparks except for very very small ones. It's possible that the wire from the relay to the horn is shorted to ground and frying the relay switch contacts.
You can connect a test light to the H - horn terminal on the relay to see if it's working properly.
Or use a continuity tester to see if the wire from the relay to the horn is shorted to ground with both ends disconnected.
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