1955 ford hood insulation

zoegrant

Well-known member
MY 55 ford Fairlane club sedan has two sections of hood insulation on the inside toward the rear of the hood. It appears to be a fiberglass type insulation..It measures approx 17 long x 15 wide.When the hood is closed then it site on each side of the large oil bath air filter....questions:

#1...is this something all the 55 Fords had ?

#2...what exactly is it`s purpose ? thanks in advance
 
Unless your doing a "show" car there are other products that will do the same thing and perform better. You do, IMHO, need something there. I will be running aftermarket headers that come up quite a bit higher than stock (approx 2") so will be putting a high temp self stick mat on the underside of my hood as well as ceramic coating on the headers.
 
Unless your doing a "show" car there are other products that will do the same thing and perform better. You do, IMHO, need something there. I will be running aftermarket headers that come up quite a bit higher than stock (approx 2") so will be putting a high temp self stick mat on the underside of my hood as well as ceramic coating on the headers.
 
Thanks for that info. The 56 customline Victoria is my favorite body style...The add said the padding was for noise insulation. I would never thought that. That padding was larger than the 55.
I liked that body style so much I will go back to view the video again...thanks a bunch
 
It's been my assumption that Fomoco's decision to place the two insulation pads there involved a few factors. Most of the heat would be toward the rear, since air entered via the front thru the radiator, so there wouldn't be a need to cover the front section of the hood, so they placed insulation pads between the center hood support channel and hinge channel at the back. They didn't place a continuous pad all the way across because they believed that insulation above the oil bath air cleaner might somewhat hinder airflow toward the back of the can where most of the air entered the air cleaner, so they left out insulation above the air cleaner. The rising heat does not damage base enamel (on the hood), but I believe that the intention was to have air heated by the engine assist in engine warm-up and once the car started moving, the hot air would pass down the firewall and out under the floor of the car. Another factor might have been to prevent sweating of the hood after the engine was shut off during cold weather.
I did not replace the insulation on either of my '55's after the hoods were stripped down and re-painted. The factory did not paint the underside of the hood on my car very well and when I removed the insulation pads, there were a couple areas of pitted rust underneath. I don't think it hurts anything not to have it.
 
Just found this on E-Bay:
 

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Did you notice how nicely that hood closed? On mine I need to pick the hood up a few inches hold onto the jet and with my left hand push down on the hood for it to latch....I think the two outer rubber stops need to be adjusted closer to the hood. But the adjustment is at its end.
 
On mine I need to pick the hood up a few inches hold onto the jet and with my left hand push down on the hood for it to latch....I think the two outer rubber stops need to be adjusted closer to the hood. But the adjustment is at its end.

Look at the contour line across the front of the hood and follow it to the ends where it mates with the front of the fenders on each side. If the hood contour line is higher than the mating contour line on the fender, the front hood bumper on that side needs to be adjusted UPWARD so that the hood will come down lower when it is closed. If the hood contour line is lower than the line on the fender, the bumper needs to be adjusted downward so it will lift the hood higher when it is closed. Check both sides. ANY adjustment of the front hood bumpers will require a re-adjustment of the hood latch pin located in the middle of the air-deflector.
There should be no need to "slam" the hood down to get it closed and latched properly. Adjust the center latch pin so the hood latches snugly enough that it can't bounce up and down at the front.
 
I don't know if you can buy the insulation pieces precut to the original factory size, but I have a roll of 1 inch thick fiberglass un-faced insulation that is exactly the same stuff that was used by the factory under the hood I must have got from a hardware store 30-40 years ago. I used it to insulate the car floor before I put the rubber floorcovering down and cut pieces to fit behind the cardboard kick panels at the side of the cowl under the dashboard. All you would need to do is get some of that insulation and cut out your two pieces for each side of the air-cleaner and glue it on.
 
I got the pre-cut pieces from Mac's probably 10 years ago. Not sure if they still sell it. It's nothing special and in hindsight if I had to do it again I'd likely do as Dave did and cut & paste the material he did, it's probably much less $$$ than the stuff I got.
 
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