1955 Ford brake question

J

Jayce

Member
Just got my 55 customline back on the road today, decided to drive it, and the brake pedal goes all the way down. We just got new brakes put on it about 2 months ago. It still stops, but it's nothing like it was when we had them redone.

Is it just the brakes sitting so long, they need to be tightened, or do you think something else is up?

The car got new brakes, was driven three times, then sat for 2+ months.
 
You prolly need to check for fluid leaks at each wheel cylinder and every other line connection in the system. Also, are you using an original style single chamber master or did you switch to a dual chamber master? If you switched to a dual master you need a longer push rod; dual masters are deeper. Adjustable push rods are available.
 
I'd quit driving till I got the pedal back, whether it's still stopping or not. Dobie's right about checking for leaks first. If nothing is visible, pull the drums. If it's a cylinder you might not have lost enough to show leaking out. Next (maybe first) check the master, see if it's low. If it's full, it could be there, there's lots of reports of offshore rebuilds not really in spec. If the fluid bypasses in the master, sometimes only part of it works. I'd expect some sign of fluid down the firewall, or under the dash if this is the case.

Years ago I bought a used car with only 25,000 miles on it. I replaced the shoes and pads, and rebuilt the rear cylinders. They bled fine, but at the bottom of the driveway, the pedal went to the floor. Turned out the brakes had been done before, and the cylinders honed. A larger piston and seal and been replaced (a factory service part). Not knowing that I put the original size in. They held bleeding, but under driving and higher pressure they failed.

These kind of tolerance problems are typical of some rebuilds, either the master or the cylinders.

2 months is no time for brakes to sit.

If you paid someone to do them, I'd be talking to them, too.
 
My bird sat for about a year with a fresh brake overhaul, all new parts. Jumped in and pedal went to the floor. Checked all wheels, nothing leaking there, looked up under the dash and sure enough it is a leaking master cylinder. Leaking inside the car. It was a NOS Ford master cylinder.
 
If a young man did the work, he may not realize old brakes need adjustment. Jack each wheel off the ground, and adjust the wheel at the bottom through the slot at the bottom of the backing plate. Adjust it to just make the tire/wheel unable to turn, then back off five or ten clicks. Count each back off click, then match the other three brakes to that. A very slight drag is OK.
 
Alright. Much appreciated for all the help! We still have the single chamber master cylinder. It's still full of brake fluid. I'm only 17 years old, and when I talked to the man who was doing them at the time he told me about adjusting them, and told me he did that, and at the time it had a slight drag, now it's just a long long drag. I've stopped driving it too. I'll pull the wheels off, and check it out today when I get home, and update everyone on the situation because I don't have hardly any experience on this stuff.

-Jayce
 
Not sure if it's possible on a single chamber master cylinder but I once lost all the brakes on a newer model Ford van (dual circuit brakes) due to a bad internal seal in the master cylinder, with only a very slight leak at the push rod.
Yes the trip down Tehachapi pass, hauling a trailer, and then south thru Los Angeles freeways was very 'interesting'.

.

.
 
Last edited:
The master could be bypassing internally, so you have no loss of fluid. Some bypassers do it once in a while, some do it all the time. How old is the master?
 
Jayce said:
Alright. Much appreciated for all the help! We still have the single chamber master cylinder. It's still full of brake fluid. I'm only 17 years old, and when I talked to the man who was doing them at the time he told me about adjusting them, and told me he did that, and at the time it had a slight drag, now it's just a long long drag. I've stopped driving it too. I'll pull the wheels off, and check it out today when I get home, and update everyone on the situation because I don't have hardly any experience on this stuff.

-Jayce
Click to expand...
For under $100 you could improve your braking by converting them to self-adjusting brakes and upgrading to a dual master https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXfXKlj2D1I (3 part video) your '55 will use the same parts. How to convert to self adjusting can be found in the 1952-59 Ford Group on the H.A.M.B.;)
 
Don't feel bad about being 17. Just ask questions. I did my first brake job at 16, fortunately with a father who'd done many of them telling me what to do. That was over 50 years ago. Now, I'm afraid I know less, and I'm not 16 either.

Tehachapi with no brakes? Wow. Now LA isn't so bad. You're going so fast and running so close you don't hit all that hard.
 
just remember there are no stupid questions at your age with your car if you continue in the mechanical field you will see the progress on the systems now your main tool is a computer where as when I started the american cars were just starting to use metric bolts so that's another set of tools I have wrenchs I used 1 time but if I need it I have it I second the master upgrade maybe a power system as that is a big car with drum brakes my wagon had 4 wheel disks and power and locked all 4 wheels
 
Correct me if I am wrong.

If I remember correctly, '55 was the last year that had an upper AND lower adjustment for the front drums. The upper one is a gross adjustment and the lower star wheel is the fine.

Like I said, I may be remembering some other car.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top