Bob from Northport
Well-known member
How difficult/extensive is it to change A 6VOLT system over to 12 volts.??
Starter-generator-Coil-light bulbs_??
Thanks!!
Starter-generator-Coil-light bulbs_??
Thanks!!
1954 Mercury electrical question
- Thread starter Bob from Northport
- Start date
dmsfrr
Well-known member
Here's an info page (written for '55 T-Birds) that should give you a very good idea.
https://www.ctci.org/battery-for-6v-to-12v-conversion/
What issue / problem are you trying to fix? A common one is hard starting, slow turn-over of the engine. There can be easier solutions for that than a complete conversion, at this next link...
"Zero" gauge battery & starter cables with clean connections.
https://www.ctci.org/gilsgarage/battery-cables/
Or a rebuilt 6v starter with fresh bushings and brushes.
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https://www.ctci.org/battery-for-6v-to-12v-conversion/
What issue / problem are you trying to fix? A common one is hard starting, slow turn-over of the engine. There can be easier solutions for that than a complete conversion, at this next link...
"Zero" gauge battery & starter cables with clean connections.
https://www.ctci.org/gilsgarage/battery-cables/
Or a rebuilt 6v starter with fresh bushings and brushes.
.
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smtichy
Senior Member
For what it's worth, another option to look at ... last year on my '55 I swapped out the 6v generator for a 6v Powermaster PowerGEN 82106 Alternator that looks like a generator. So far have driven it about 1,000 miles and am pleased with it, and it solved all of the issues I had with the low output of the generator. Yes at $300+ it's a lot more expensive than a generator but I saved a lot of time and money switching out 6v parts for 12v equivalents.
FYI the issues I had prior to this were poor charging while using halogen headlights, weak charge on idle, unreliable activation of OD relay, weak power to convertible top motor, etc.
FYI the issues I had prior to this were poor charging while using halogen headlights, weak charge on idle, unreliable activation of OD relay, weak power to convertible top motor, etc.
Daves55Sedan
Well-known member
You should be able to use a '56 Ford or Mercury Y-block 12-volt starter and generator, as well as horn relay and horns.
12v instrument bulbs and headlamps can still be purchased new. If old wiring is good, it does not need to be swapped but you will need to add ballast resistor and 12-volt coil for the ignition. You'll need a 12-volt heater blower motor, probably from a '56 (but not a '57 or later as they rotate backwards). Clock and radio will need to be converted to 12-volts. Most instrument service providers can fix for you as well as restore them cosmetically. Some minor wiring modification is required for the start circuit relating to the ballast resistor. Use 1956 or later shop manual for wiring diagram.
EVERY lamp must be changed to 12-volt. Don't forget some of those well hidden bulbs under the dash like your PRNDL indicator lamp and your glove-box interior lamp.
If Merc still used the old-style varnished cambric jacketed wiring in '54, you should inspect it all well to make sure that old insulation is still sound. If not, the repro parts suppliers sell new thermoplastic jacketed wiring harness but make sure you are sitting down when you see the price. I believe you can still buy the OEM style Sparton horns from repro parts suppliers. The power seat motor, and power window motors should be okay as is, but you may need to swap out the power window relays in the doors as I am not sure if the coil will handle 12-volts very long. The contacts are double what you need but since they come in a unit, you need to buy the whole thing. Voltage regulator for your battery can be a standard 12-volt 40amp unit from a '56 or later Ford.
12v instrument bulbs and headlamps can still be purchased new. If old wiring is good, it does not need to be swapped but you will need to add ballast resistor and 12-volt coil for the ignition. You'll need a 12-volt heater blower motor, probably from a '56 (but not a '57 or later as they rotate backwards). Clock and radio will need to be converted to 12-volts. Most instrument service providers can fix for you as well as restore them cosmetically. Some minor wiring modification is required for the start circuit relating to the ballast resistor. Use 1956 or later shop manual for wiring diagram.
EVERY lamp must be changed to 12-volt. Don't forget some of those well hidden bulbs under the dash like your PRNDL indicator lamp and your glove-box interior lamp.
If Merc still used the old-style varnished cambric jacketed wiring in '54, you should inspect it all well to make sure that old insulation is still sound. If not, the repro parts suppliers sell new thermoplastic jacketed wiring harness but make sure you are sitting down when you see the price. I believe you can still buy the OEM style Sparton horns from repro parts suppliers. The power seat motor, and power window motors should be okay as is, but you may need to swap out the power window relays in the doors as I am not sure if the coil will handle 12-volts very long. The contacts are double what you need but since they come in a unit, you need to buy the whole thing. Voltage regulator for your battery can be a standard 12-volt 40amp unit from a '56 or later Ford.
dmsfrr
Well-known member
Here's one idea for helping a slow 6v starter (if it doesn't need rebuilding or better battery & ground cables) add another 6v battery in series between the solenoid and starter.
It results in 12 volts going to the starter for extra power and the existing 6v positive ground electrical system stays untouched & unaffected.
The extra battery could be slightly smaller than the primary battery and may fit in the engine compartment below the heater fan ductwork, with an extra battery tray and heat shield as needed. Connecting it to a battery charger once in a while should keep it ready for use.
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I'll throw in my two cents here. I have a couple of six volt 54s and I can say I have no issues with them starting. The amount of work it takes to switch to 12 volts isn't always worth it. Personally, I would just get the existing issue figured out as converting to 12 volts is just going to mask or hide the actual problem. One of my cars was hard to start recently and it was a messed up carburetor of all things.
I've installed a 6 to 12 volt converter in my glovebox which allows me to charge cellphones and even operate an FM - Bluetooth adapter so I can listen to my own music on the radio. I had the factory radio upgraded to have FM as well as AM. I can even take phone calls on that bluetooth adapter! It's hilarious and my friends think its a real cool setup. At some point I'll make a youtube video on how I did this.
The second six volt battery idea dmsfrr mentioned, I've seen it in a scrap car I had a couple of years ago, now that I see the diagram, I understand how that works. Neat idea.
I've installed a 6 to 12 volt converter in my glovebox which allows me to charge cellphones and even operate an FM - Bluetooth adapter so I can listen to my own music on the radio. I had the factory radio upgraded to have FM as well as AM. I can even take phone calls on that bluetooth adapter! It's hilarious and my friends think its a real cool setup. At some point I'll make a youtube video on how I did this.
The second six volt battery idea dmsfrr mentioned, I've seen it in a scrap car I had a couple of years ago, now that I see the diagram, I understand how that works. Neat idea.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
Many times I find that smaller gauge cable has been installed to replace the big #2 AWG or larger cable for battery connections or the starting cable. The lower the line resistance the better. The larger the gauge of cable, the lower the resistance. Starters need a bit of love now and then too. Brushes and bushings aren't too hard to replace along with a good cleaning and inspection as was mentioned previously.
The panel instruments and little light bulbs can be a bear to get to in the old Ford & Mercury vehicles. The King Seeley instruments are not reproduced and the reproduction senders aren't very good quality or don't function well on the current based systems. It's usually better to put the little solid state constant voltage regulators on them and use the originals.
The panel instruments and little light bulbs can be a bear to get to in the old Ford & Mercury vehicles. The King Seeley instruments are not reproduced and the reproduction senders aren't very good quality or don't function well on the current based systems. It's usually better to put the little solid state constant voltage regulators on them and use the originals.
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