1954 front spring help

JohnSunliner

JohnSunliner

Member
I need to install new Jamco front coil springs in my 54 and have never replaced springs before. Can I get the original springs out by jacking up and removing the shocks? Or will I need to disassemble the A arms a bit? Any advice from those who have done this will be appreciated. Btw, the new springs are a 2 inch drop :)
 
John, yes you will have to remove your shocks. Also unbolt the sway bar and lower ball joint to drop the lower A arm to remove the springs. You may need a ball joint 'fork' to Pop the ball joint loose from the A arm. I made some special tools I use when doing this. Have a hydraulic jack under the A arm to prevent it from dropping, then slowly allow the A arm to swing down until the tension on the spring is released.

Ensure you know what you are doing before you start. Don't know about the '54 but the '55 manual has a procedure on how to remove the springs (and suspension).

Just curious, what are the Jamco springs go for. Most guys are using the Aerostar front variable rate springs made by Moog (part#CC850) with good results and cost ~$50 for the pair.
 
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Thanks for the good tip about using a jack to releave the tension! Actually I can not tell you the price for the coils since I purchased a whole lowering kit including new front coils, new rear leaf springs and shocks. I think it was about $600. The $50 coils sound like a bargain.
 
Also, I always leave the lower ball joint nut about half way on until I get the ball joint to break lose from the A arm. That way it can't release if the jack slips while breaking it lose. Once broken lose, then I remove the nut and lower the jake to release spring pressure. I'm sure this this all will make sense once you get your head under there.
 
The Master Cylinder said:
Also, I always leave the lower ball joint nut about half way on until I get the ball joint to break lose from the A arm. That way it can't release if the jack slips while breaking it lose. Once broken lose, then I remove the nut and lower the jake to release spring pressure. I'm sure this this all will make sense once you get your head under there.
Click to expand...

I'm following exactly what you are saying, that is a good safety tip.
thanks again!
 
i personally am not in favour of the fork type ball joint splitters as they cause damage to the rubbers and possibly to the ball joints themselves. I use an extending bolt tool i bought from classic auto parts - I cant find them listed in their current catalog.
The tool I use is similar to this Howe tool.
http://scandc.com/new/node/183
It is much easier to use than belting the crap out of the ball joints.
If you use something like this tool dont loosen the nut right off as when the ball joint lets go it will stop the lower arm from hitting the fround.
All the other advice is good.
Regards
 
I'd suggest having someone help that's done this job before. You miss a step or forget something during disassembly, it's gonna get ugly. Those springs have a lot of energy squeezed in them. I wrap a chain through the spring and chassis to hold it in place, just in case. When you see one go across the shop, you'll understand all the caution spoken of in this thread.
 
X2 what Streetdreams mentioned. You wont be able to outrun it if it starts chasing you around the shop.
 
streetdreams said:
I'd suggest having someone help that's done this job before. You miss a step or forget something during disassembly, it's gonna get ugly. Those springs have a lot of energy squeezed in them. I wrap a chain through the spring and chassis to hold it in place, just in case. When you see one go across the shop, you'll understand all the caution spoken of in this thread.
Click to expand...

What he said! That bad boy will kill you if it hits you in the head or really f something up that it hits! Use the chain, had one come out with the chain in place. Still had to change underwear!
 
rick55 said:
i personally am not in favour of the fork type ball joint splitters as they cause damage to the rubbers and possibly to the ball joints themselves. I use an extending bolt tool i bought from classic auto parts.
Click to expand...

Rick you are correct, I don't know why I even mentioned the Fork except I didn't know someone made the other type. I use a tool similar to the one you linked to but I made it myself a long time ago as I didn't know they made them. I'll get a picture of "my tool" a little later.

Wrapping the chain through the spring is a good safety precaution and a good one to use but I have never had a spring come out if you "pop" the ball joint lose with the nut still losely in place and you lower the A arm slowly with a hydraulic jack.

All good info...
 
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OK here's "My tool" The threaded pipe (threads serve no purpose, just a piece of pipe I had) fits over the upper ball joint nut and the blue stud presses against the loosened lower ball joint nut. As you tighten the blue nut it pushes the stud applying pressure on the lower ball joint.

After I put the car up on stands I install the tool and apply pressure. Make sure the car is high enough so the A arm can swing out of the way. Then I go have a soda and when I come back the ball joint usually has popped free. Then I position the hydraulic jack under the lower A arm, remove tool and nut and SLOWLY lower jack until tension on the spring is released.


8144911526_e89015a3db.jpg
 
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I get the car waaaaay up in front, on firm jack stands. Then after the ball joint is loose and the nut removed, I stand back out of the way and lower the floor jack very slowly.
I use a good quality old style floor jack. The little "trolley" jacks available today don't cut it. If you have one, store it away where it cant hurt anyone when it fails. Notice I didn't say "IF" it fails. If you watch what you are doing, place the jack right, the spring wont come out untill you let it out.
 
Either that or look on the ground and see it laying there because you forgot to put it on. Dont ask how I know.
 
You guys are great! I now have an appreciation for what could happen and will get some knowledgable help when I do this the for the first time. I have the good jack stands, a log chain, and a good (real) floor jack :)
 
I was reviewing my '52-'54 shop manual and found it interesting that '54 was the first yr with ball joints. I did not know that. I guess the running chassis is common to '54-'56 while the body is common to '52-'54.
 
A trick I learned from a 30+ year Ford mechanic works great when trying to get the ball joint loose quick and clean. After you've jacked up the front end to unload the suspension and loosened the nut holding the lower ball joint, take a 3 or 4 lb. hammer and bash it sharply on the steering arm spindle. The ball joint will just pop loose. A smaller hammer will not work, but the larger head will release the tension enough for the shaft of the ball joint to release. I know this sounds crude, like the 'use a bigger hammer' approach but it really works.
 
The hammer method has been used for years, but you need to hold another hammer against the back side of the spindle. This serves to jar the spindle from both sides when you hit the spindle where the ball joint is held by the taper.
I had a ball joint that would not come loose this way even when heat was applied to the spindle. Ended up having to use the fork mentioned by Master Cylinder earlier. After this I thought there must be a better way and found the tool I have now.
If you can't find the tool I bought, Master Cylinders is a very good substitute.
Regards
 
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