1953 f100

N

NORMFREEMAN

Junior Member
Heavy rust in cooling jacket. Have engine ready for muriatic acid soak. My dad did this several times thru the years of restoring antique engines. I dont remimber how long to let soak-what to neutralize with. Have in well ventlated area(outdoors). Will use all precausions required to be safe.info please. Norm
 
Run it through. Let it set for a day in the block only (it'll do quick harm to the radiator). Wash it out. Neutralize it with a baking soda wash as mentioned.

It's not as bad as we think it is. Muriatic acid is used for pool cleaning. Don't store it in your garage it will vapor rust everything in site. Ever see a pool guy running around in the south and his bed is rusted to sh!t. Keep it outside when you open it.


Be careful. I recall mixing it for a 1.5hp dearing hopper and watching the fumes bend the air. Important!! Mix it to the water, do not add water to the acid.
 
You could probably do a way better job removing the heads and using a long screwdriver and a coathanger hogging out the water jackets and flushing with a hose.
 
I really don't like using any kind of acid to de-rust iron or steel. It can get out of control too easily. I use Evaporust (or equivalent) for this purpose, as it works on an entirely different principle called chellation and will not hurt the base metal in any way. It also works very well, but it is rather expensive.

I did the '51 Mercury engine now in my '51 Ford club coupe with it. I first flushed the engine as well as I could and then filled it with a solution of Rust-11 (a cheaper Evaporust alternative) and let is sit for a day. I flushed it out again and repeated the process. After a final flush, this was how it turned out.

I was quite satisfied with the result.
 

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Thanks fpr reply tinker,i failed to state that block is mounted on engine stand/old pumps/2 heads/water outlets installed/2 flexhoses on pumps wired upward to outlet level/ready for acid. Block jacket blown clear of all loose rust/run thru jet cleaner/ready for acid. How long for soak? How much soda per side to neutralize?
 
I would soak it for 12 hours and check it. Use a box of baking soda mixed with 2 gallons of water to neutralize. I would get a gallon of metal prep from Bill Hirsh and use this to prevent flash rusting which will happen quickly after using muratic. I was spraying a rusty fender once when the wife walked by downwind. Didn't talk to me for a week.
 
Norm since you have it on a stand, I'm guessing you have the heads off. If you have not done this... Take a long screw driver and a heavy wire like a coathanger cut up and physically probe the back of the blocks water passages to loosen casting sand. Rinse and repeat. You'll be surprised what you will flush out. Most issues with heat start at the back of the block. Just look at the design of the inlets/outlets. Both are at the front of the block.


If you have already done this. Then you can try acid (what is this the 60s man, hahaha).
The acid will have very little effect on any casting sand.


I've used evaporust a few times on more delicate pieces like window regulators and pieces with yellow metal. It is easy to work with and does a very decent job. It can get costly, but can be worth it, compared to dealing with heavy acids and chemicals.



Best of luck! Let us know how it goes. Wear goggles!!! and keep it off the concrete floor. Concrete is very porous and will not like it. If you do get some on the garage floor, add a ton of water to the area quickly to dilute it. Or better yet do it outside, better for fumes anyways. Muriatic acid will work great if you understand all that is involved. Well you can mix it down to a point that it's just as powerful as vinegar too.







.
 
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I'm with Tubman on this. Evaporust/Rust-911 worked great on my '39 block. As Tinker points out, probing the water passages to loosen & flush out the crap is also key.
 
rolling the block around on a piece of plywood will loosen up most of it and bake cleaning will finish it. Just another option
Gramps
 
Nothing you can clean it with at home will get it absolutely clean. You can get most of the rust out but not the scale and that is what causes most of the problems.
Take it to a stripper and have it done right.
 
Pete - Do you see the "scale" you mention in the pictures of my block (above)?

I was pretty happy with those results, and the engine runs right on the 180 thermostats with no problems.
 
Well depending on what you can afford or what you need. You can do alright on the stand or as Ol' Ron said off the stand. Just do what you are okay with and can afford. Some methods certainly will be better then others. Do what works for you with the info.
 
tubman said:
Pete - Do you see the "scale" you mention in the pictures of my block (above)?

I was pretty happy with those results, and the engine runs right on the 180 thermostats with no problems.
Click to expand...

Scale is not usually visable in the upper parts of the water jackets. It is usually in the mid and bottom areas. It forms where the rust and dirt settle.
 
Plain old vinegar will work well. let is set for a day or so. i had to do mine four times.
Vinegar is about $ 1.50 a gallon, takes about four gallons each time. I set the engine out in the sun and you could see the rust bubbling up.
 
slowforty said:
Plain old vinegar will work well. let is set for a day or so. i had to do mine four times.
Vinegar is about $ 1.50 a gallon, takes about four gallons each time. I set the engine out in the sun and you could see the rust bubbling up.
Click to expand...

And vinegar is a lot safer too.
 
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